opinions on anti-desiccation effectiveness

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woodville

ArboristSite Operative
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It's that time of year around here and again comes the question about winter protection. First do you believe that products for Anti-transpirants such as TransFilm really are effective or just a seasonal crap shoot? I have been applying this product for about 4 years and still can't honestly say if it really works or is it just luck. I use a rate of 5 gl per 100 gl and apply around now and again around Dec if weather allows. Due to not owning the company's I have worked for an early spring application was not applied witch I believe
to be the most useful. Property's treated during hard winters and early springs look about the same as untreated property's, again ever property is different so it is to hard to give a definite based on site comparison. Now when I talk with a client about signing up for winter protection I in now way give them a guarantee about effectiveness but give my personal opinion of the product that is sometimes it works sometime not but it's worth a shot. I have only used trans-film and not other products like wilt-pruf due to the horror story's I have heard from people who applied or mis-applied it. The only product that I can say works is burlap, just wrap up the plants but that is not always an option. Whats your take on this?
 
Ma Boston area. Also second application should have been around late Jan early Feb.
 
Actually it's mostly newly planted evergreens but established evergreen shrubs as well i.e. boxwood,ilex,Rhody's and such. Site conditions vary, a few on the coast but mostly inland. The typical landscape situation for the most part. Newly installed landscapes I am most worried about, roots still in the ball less than 9 months in the ground. I'm looking to see what others have experienced when applying transfilm or other anti-desiccants over a period of time. Again my results have been inconclusive at best, just too many variables. One thing I have noticed with transfilm is a lack of any sheen or visible coating on the needle or leaf surface. I can spray a Rhody and come back 5 min later and not even tell by looking at it if it was treated. With wiltpruf it appears that it was glossed over with a lacquer or something.
 
For established trees I think it is situatiuonal.

Is the tree/shrub in a location likely to get warm when the soil is still frozen? E.G arborvitae with a soutwestern exposure and a shaded rootplate.

Is the tree/shrub in a windy location?

How valuable is the plant to the landscape and client. In some cases it works well, in others it is a relatively cheap insurance for a plant that would be difficult to replace at size.
 
Mr. Woodville....I am not an expert of the topic but have learned about those products wilt pruff and such as being a pretty good pruduct in the right application. Newly planted evergreens and such is a yes!! what you are doing is telling the plant to homanaly "conserve water"...in the north with long periods with the frozen ground the plants cant access the water in the soil. The plants survaial my depend on the treatment...if my memory treats me right...and I am not an expert!
munkeeft
 
It boggles me that someone would say replace the shrub fopr an answer. Maybe not familkiar with the north. If the rhode is planted ina windy location then yes it will get dessocation. If you replace it, yes it still will get dessocation. DUH
Anyway in my opinion this stuff doesnt do any good at all. Sometimes even has detrimental effects. THat waxy coating acts like a greenhouse, heating up the cell during the day then as soon as the sun goes down the twmp drops rapidly. Plants need acclimation for such fluctuations in temprature. I have seen death come upon rhodes and boxwoods when over applied. Go with what works the burlap, or consturction fence or whatever others may use.
 

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