Opinions Wanted, New Makita or Old Stihl.

[Sourwould]

Hey Y'all. Boy, I haven't been on here in a while. Kinda got busy with some other things for a while.

Anyway, I need to pick up a saw. Need one to pull triple duty. I'd like one on site to cut i-joists and beams/posts, one at home for chores, and I'd like to get back into doing some carving. I've been thinking about picking up an old 024/026/MS260. I had an MS260 a long time ago and really liked that saw. I think 026's are getting pretty old at this point and seem to be demanding a bit of coin still.

I also was looking into the little Makita EA3601. Which looks like a pretty interesting little saw, light weight and seems to make good power. Not a huge fan of the idea of the tool-less tensioner. $300 shipped brand new doesn't seem too bad.

Opinions from the peanut gallery?

 

[ammoaddict]

Hey Y'all. Boy, I haven't been on here in a while. Kinda got busy with some other things for a while.

Anyway, I need to pick up a saw. Need one to pull triple duty. I'd like one on site to cut i-joists and beams/posts, one at home for chores, and I'd like to get back into doing some carving. I've been thinking about picking up an old 024/026/MS260. I had an MS260 a long time ago and really liked that saw. I think 026's are getting pretty old at this point and seem to be demanding a bit of coin still.

I also was looking into the little Makita EA3601. Which looks like a pretty interesting little saw, light weight and seems to make good power. Not a huge fan of the idea of the tool-less tensioner. $300 shipped brand new doesn't seem too bad.

Opinions from the peanut gallery?

I've heard good things about the Makita, they say the tensioner is very robust. There are a couple reviews on it that I have read. One is really good, shows disassembly too. I can't remember where it was though.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[esean]

Also take a look at another 36cc saw - the Echo 361P. $50 more (thanks to Echo's recent price drop), but ~a pound lighter and conventional side chain tensioner. Mine's been flawless for 5+ yrs.

 

[Sourwould]

Well, I bought a Shindaiwa 360. We'll see if this is a mistake or not! haha.

 

[tomalophicon]

Well, I bought a Shindaiwa 360. We'll see if this is a mistake or not! haha.

Sounds like a good thing to me. They are the same as the Echo.

Makita are withdrawing from the petrol chainsaw market next year so you made a good decision regarding that, even though they actually make fantastic saws.

 

[ammoaddict]

Well, I bought a Shindaiwa 360. We'll see if this is a mistake or not! haha.

Pictures or it didn't happen. Let us know how it works out.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[Sourwould]

Sounds like a good thing to me. They are the same as the Echo.

Makita are withdrawing from the petrol chainsaw market next year so you made a good decision regarding that, even though they actually make fantastic saws.

I think the one I bought predates the Echo buyout.

That's a shame about Makita. I wonder if it's because of poor sales or if they're going all electric.

 

[tomalophicon]

I think the one I bought predates the Echo buyout.

That's a shame about Makita. I wonder if it's because of poor sales or if they're going all electric.

Maybe both reasons.
Hopefully Dolmar can stay alive.
Tom.

 

[poleframer]

If you're doing some construction work with a chainsaw, consider getting a makita electric. Sure is nice to skip the gas, fumes and warm up. They arent as torquey but respectable, those add on bars on skil saws have way too slow a chain speed IMO. An electric chainsaw is about the same price.
My UC4030 with a sharp chain goes thru a 12" beam with ease. Nails...not so much, but quick work with a file and all is good.
After some research, I found out I could change the 6 pin spur sprocket on my 16" makita to a 7 pin from a dolmar model. Get a better chain on it.
Also have the older high speed 5012b that I put a little stihl 10" pole pruner bar and chain on (1/4" .043 gauge) for carving and tight work.
Both great timber construction saws.

 

[Sourwould]

If you're doing some construction work with a chainsaw, consider getting a makita electric. Sure is nice to skip the gas, fumes and warm up. They arent as torquey but respectable, those add on bars on skil saws have way too slow a chain speed IMO. An electric chainsaw is about the same price.
My UC4030 with a sharp chain goes thru a 12" beam with ease. Nails...not so much, but quick work with a file and all is good.
After some research, I found out I could change the 6 pin spur sprocket on my 16" makita to a 7 pin from a dolmar model. Get a better chain on it.
Also have the older high speed 5012b that I put a little stihl 10" pole pruner bar and chain on (1/4" .043 gauge) for carving and tight work.
Both great timber construction saws.

Man, I had considered a Makita battery saw, but didn't even think about corded saws. I figured they just wouldn't have enough ass behind them. What does the 7 pin sprocket do for you?

I see you're in Oregon. We don't get any nice doug fir or cedar beams over here. I'll be cutting all engineered beams with the saw (LVL, LSL) and I want to try and gang cut my TJI's. Not sure if that makes a difference, yellow pine and all that glue.

I've tried the prazi add on's for the skilsaws and didn't like them.

 

[Sourwould]

Not sure if anyone who knows will see this because of the tread title, but....

Can anyone confirm whether the Shindaiwa 360 runs a 3/8 or .325 sprocket stock? I want to go ahead and order a smaller bar and chain.

 

[poleframer]

Was just using my makita cutting 6x6 and 12x3 beams on a job yesterday, most of last week too. I think you would really like that 16" corded makita for what you're doing. I cut the 12x3s on the wide, get a nice straigh cut that way, goes through 12 inches of fir no problem.
Not as fast or torquey as a gas saw, but no gas to deal with, oiler works well, no pulling a cord every other minute makes the trade off well worth it.
The soft start feature takes a little getting used to , but it actually helps a lot making the saw less jumpy starting, and if you do carving or beam notching you can kinda feather the switch for good control.
I'm sure it's hard on the bar, but I also often use it in a dragging/sweeping motion just up from flat, like a power rasp.
The 7 pin increases the chain speed just a tad, little less torque tho. I found it cut a bit smoother with that mod, that I read about on a wood carving forum. It's sort of a tricky mod, you need the right drum and rim sprocket from a dolmar saw, and taking the makita spur drum apart and changing out is a bit of a pita.
I've done a fair bit of log home construction, pole construction and timber framing over the last 30 years, and sure wish I'd have gotten an electric a long time before I did, I've been through a fair number of saws. Did I mention no more top ends to replace? No carbs to tune, no yanking on a cord in 100 degrees on a saw that wont start.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I’d suggest a new Stihl ms 180.

Sorry, I was late to the party and see you have brought a saw already. Post adjusted accordingly.

N.B I love the 180’s... such fun little angry beavers.

 

[arto_wa]

Not sure if anyone who knows will see this because of the tread title, but....

Can anyone confirm whether the Shindaiwa 360 runs a 3/8 or .325 sprocket stock? I want to go ahead and order a smaller bar and chain.

Old thread, oh well.

Hopefully it worked out well for you?

I have been using Shindaiwa 360 for about 25 years and it's an excellent small (36 cc) professional saw.
As you probably already figured out it uses 3/8 sprocket!