ordered new furnace

[stihly dan]

Wait till you load the furnace all the way up. I'm not kidding when I say that growing-up my friends always referred to my dad (when he's not around) as whitey tighty, because that's all he ever wore around the 75 degree house. I can't even wear my nice Christmas sweater when we meet at the parent's house for the holidays, because it would be taken off after being there for 2 minutes anyways. :msp_smile:

I don't know if i will ever load it up. I haven't even put good wood in it, and its heating me out the house. Wife and daughters love it. Me, I am kind of hot blooded and like it cool. But if there happy, there out of my hairCurrentlylexperimentingng on loading for long burns with lower heat. I would like a nice long burn, but be able to keep the house from overheating. We will see when the real cold gets here. That may be all thats needed.

 

[stihly dan]

Thought I might of had an issue with the new furnace tonite. Came home from work and worked on a car till it was dark. House was 69 deg from this mornings small load. Furnace was out of fuel, only 2 small golf ball size coals in there. Put a few pieces of kindling on, and bam 20 sec later a nice starter fire. Loaded a few small uglies in there (still not using any of the stacked wood yet) went up stairs. After a while I herd a loud beep and the fan came on high speed, fan is never in high, there is never a beep, crap whats wrong. Went down to check it out, damper was closed, computer was off. Seemed to have a high limit event. I could not see anything out of the ordinary, so I called lampa. Mr lampa answered the phone, after I explained what happened he had a theory. Which led to the info of I ADJUSTED the low speed fan temp by 10 deg, causing the bonnet temp to hit high limit. I thought if the fan came on when it was warmer the rise in house temp would slow, and the burn time extend. I didn't realize that the low speed fan temp reading would be much different than the limit temp. Duh, one on the side wall, while the other is 11 inches in, putting it directly above the heat exchanger. Boy they really do have these dialed in just perfect. No room for any hillbilly tweaking. (spidey would hate this unit). And again I can't say enough on how nice it is to have an issue (well thats not nice) and be able to talk to someone immediately, to get it resolved. This is the 3rd time I've called, and every time the phone is answered, so is the question. They really do have fantastic customer support. This is the way it's supposed to be. Very, very happy.

 

[stihly dan]

Well I now may have debunked the theory of "better to move cold air than warm". When the wood stove was in the basement, I had vents, and the cellar door for the heat to rise through out the house. I had installed 2 5 inch rounds from the 2nd fl to the fl of the basement, with a 300 cfm fan in a can, in them, pulling the cold air down, pressurizing the heat out of the basement. This worked for about a 7 deg diff on both floors. When i installed the new furnace, I left the 2nd fl the same way.. result was the same, 62 deg 2nd fl. So last week I removed that duct and fan, installed a 6 in rd in it's place, tied into the supply of the furnace. Now temps upstairs on the 2nd floor anywhere from 70 to 78. Depending on damper position.

I also added a few take offs in the basement. I now have control of every fl. If 2nd is warm, or warmer, and the 1st fl wants more heat, I can go down stairs close a couple dampers, keep the 2nd where the temp is and raise the 1st fl temp to where we want it. If the 1st fl reaches the desired temp or starts to go over, I can open the basement vents close the 1st fl. No need to waste heat out the window now.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Hmmm, maybe an enterprising geek (or even the folks at Kuuma) could come up with a PLC controlled zone system, multiple thermostats controlling flaps that open and close as heat is needed in certain areas.

It'd make for a more complicated install, and more dependence on electricity, but not much different than doing the same thing with an OWB setup.

 

[Currently]

Hmmm, maybe an enterprising geek (or even the folks at Kuuma) could come up with a PLC controlled zone system, multiple thermostats controlling flaps that open and close as heat is needed in certain areas.

It'd make for a more complicated install, and more dependence on electricity, but not much different than doing the same thing with an OWB setup.

PLC is the cheap part, instrumentation will make this expensive.

 

[iowa]

d

PLC is the cheap part, instrumentation will make this expensive.

My heating and air guys told me they could add servos and air flappers to close off and open different zones in my house to keep everything even. I'm not having any issues tho. I just close off the vents in our bedroom as we like to sleep in cooler temps. Works great!

 

[stihly dan]

It would be easy to install a zone damper system, not much money either. That would be making it almost as easy as petro. And I like being in control of something at the house. Say a kid is lazy, NO HEAT FOR YOU, 1 NITE!!

 

[stihly dan]

Although a read out on what was going on would be the cats a$$. Fan speed, fire box temp, plenum temp, return temp, outside temp, how long the fire box was up to temp. I am thinking on putting in a techmar controller to read most of these. Why? cause I can, and it will be neat.

 

[cfarms]

Although a read out on what was going on would be the cats a$$. Fan speed, fire box temp, plenum temp, return temp, outside temp, how long the fire box was up to temp. I am thinking on putting in a techmar controller to read most of these. Why? cause I can, and it will be neat.

Which Techmar controller would you use? Sounds like fun!!!

 

[stihly dan]

Not sure, have to spec them all out to see wich one has the most stuff I want, and the least that I don't want. I may now go ddc, use the ohms of the temp senser of the damper control, convert to temp. Then I can sit at the comp and see the history. Maybe evan document fuel weight to length of actual heat.

 

[stihly dan]

Just a bump so people can read the history of the install.