Oregon 511A question

[McCartman]

I have noticed that when sharpening chains, only about 1/4 to 1/2 of the wheel circumference is actually being utilized in the grinding process. I have three wheels, 1/8" 3/16" for cutters and a 1/4" that I used for rakers - and all three do the same thing. Is this common for you other owners of this grinder? Is it the wheels themselves or do I have more serious problems with a possible bent motor shaft? All three of these wheels are the originals that came with the grinder and this has been going on since the grinder was brand new.

It doesn't concern me too much other than the fact that my 3/16" wheel is about used up and I'm tossing around the idea of buying a CBN wheel to replace it. As expensive as they are, I'd hate to have the same thing happen with it and end up wearing out only part of the wheel.

I would like to hear other's experiences and any advice would be appreciated.

 

[galde]

511 sharpener problem

Is it a sideways wobble or an eccentricity issue?

 

[woodchux]

You probably need to dress (shape) the grinding disks.

 

[Lakeside53]

If you get BN wheels, it's a non issue... and if you ever wear out one side, just flip it over.

 

[PES+]

You either have a bent motor shaft or the support cup washers are bent....

 

[McCartman]

Thanks for the replies. The problem seems to be an eccentricity issue and does cause a slight vibration. I've attempted to cure the problem by laying the dressing brick on the chain rail and dressing the stone to take out any eccentricity, but no change.

Now, here's possibly a dumb question - which way is the concave supposed to be on the support washer? I've been running it concaved out - away from the stone. Should it be concaved IN, and is this part of the problem?

Thanks again.

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be "in". The "cup" supports the wheel.

 

[Grande Dog]

What I've found is that when you take the wheels on and of a few time the center arbor of the wheel gets larger so it is no longer on center. You need to put a match mark on the wheel arbor flange. When you put on a new wheel, match mark the wheel to the flange. If you keep the match mark pointing down, the wheel gets put back on in the same position every time. If you have a used wheel do the same as above but, when you get it mounted, flip the motor head to 90 degrees (like you were going to do rakers). Lay the dresing brick on the chain vise and slowly bring the wheel down on to the brick. This will bring the wheel back into round. It'll leave the wheel flat but, you can round it up after it's true again. If you bring the wheel down to fast the brick will vibrate with the wheel and you won't get anywhere.

 

[PES+]

Convex out concave towards the wheel.....It may be a good idea to check the wheels you have as described in the manual to make sure you have not damaged them....they should ring a bit when you tap them with an allen wrench

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/accessories/511AManual_3Lang.pdf

An easy mistake to make as the current manual does not make that clear

 

[Grande Dog]

Concave towards the wheel.