Oregon CS300 40V Cordless Chainsaw

[sweetgumsux]

Ok...just ordered a Oregon CS300 with 4ah battery pack/ charger.

Should be here within 7 days . I decided on this model vs the REDBACK 120 volt -18 inch model for a few reasons.

It weighs less , its been sold for a few years now, and seems to get mostly good reviews , has automatic chain sharpener built in, has a metal drive gear for the chain { unlike other brands| and it seems like people do not complain that it leaks bar oil much. I also prefer a 16 inch bar over the 18 inch bar when it comes to a cordless battery chainsaw and the REDBACK seems to cut very slow in the reviews.

Also, Oregon has released a 6AH battery pack for this chainsaw, which means you will get 240 watt hours just like the redback chainsaw would be at 120 volts with their 2 AH battery pack.

 

[sweetgumsux]

Philbert, have you seen this in depth review done a few months ago, on several brand name cordless chainsaws ?

The reviewer rated the Oregon cs300, very poorly. Claimed the chainsaw would cutout a lot when trying to cut thru 8 inch pine logs using a 4 AH battery . You didn't seem to have that issue ? They also said that the stock chain was to aggressive for cutting hardwood and they suggested switching to a normal 16 inch 91 styled Oregon chain that was not meant for use with the power sharpening system built into the chainsaw .

https://www.protoolreviews.com/tools/outdoor-equipment/best-battery-powered-chainsaw-shootout/29018/

 

[sweetgumsux]

Philbert, can the powersharp chain be purchased by itself, for a lower price, then buying the chain and sharpening gadget together as 1 unit ?

 

[Philbert]

You've asked about a couple of issues.

The saw has a protective overload feature that will cut out. Let the saw do the work, especially when cutting through larger wood.

PowerSharp chain is fairly aggressive chain. I did some informal side-by-side testing and found that it out performed otht chains in softwood, but was not as fast in hardwood. I have multiple chains for most saws, but generally leave the PS chain on the Oregon saws due to the built-in sharprning feature.

Every PowerSharp chain is sold with a replacement stone: they need to be used as a pair. The mount for the saws with the built-in sharpeners is different that for the sharpening cassette that attaches to the end of the guide bar.

Buy the PS chain/stone for your saw. But feel free to try other 3/8 low profile chains on it as well: just be sure to remove or deactivate the sharpening lever when you do.

Philbert

 

[sweetgumsux]

You've asked about a couple of issues.

The saw has a protective overload feature that will cut out. Let the saw do the work, especially when cutting through larger wood.

PowerSharp chain is fairly aggressive chain. I did some informal side-by-side testing and found that it out performed otht chains in softwood, but was not as fast in hardwood. I have multiple chains for most saws, but generally leave the PS chain on the Oregon saws due to the built-in sharprning feature.

Every PowerSharp chain is sold with a replacement stone: they need to be used as a pair. The mount for the saws with the built-in sharpeners is different that for the sharpening cassette that attaches to the end of the guide bar.

Buy the PS chain/stone for your saw. But feel free to try other 3/8 low profile chains on it as well: just be sure to remove or deactivate the sharpening lever when you do.

Philbert

Ty....I will be cutting only hardwood with my CS300, so which type/model of chain do you suggest I use ? I dont mind hand sharpening them.

 

[Philbert]

Check out the 'test' I posted in the Redback 120V thread.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...thium-cordless-battery-chainsaw.310665/page-2

Philbert

 

[sweetgumsux]

Check out the 'test' I posted in the Redback 120V thread.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...thium-cordless-battery-chainsaw.310665/page-2

Philbert

Thanks...so your opinion is, stick to the powersharp chain on the CS300 , even if cutting hardwood ? The differences between other chain types weren't enough to make it advantageous to use a different chain format on the Cs300.

Did you ever get to try a narrow kerf, 3/8, low profile (e.g. Oregon Type 90) chain on the CS3000 Oregon- 16 inch bar ?

Im gonna be cutting all hardwood...oak, ash, hickory , etc....much of it will be 8-14" wide logs.

Ty for your responses.

 

[Philbert]

I would try NK chain if I had the guide bar to run it on. Use it on a pole saw and it works great.

Philbert

 

[sweetgumsux]

I would try NK chain if I had the guide bar to run it on. Use it on a pole saw and it works great.

Philbert

Can you give me a ebay link, to a chain you think would perform well on this CS300 - 16 inch bar , for hardwood cutting ? It wont bother me if I cant use the built in sharpener gadget.

 

[Philbert]

Look up pitch, gauge and drive link count, or carry the chain it comes with info any full service chainsaw dealer.

I cannot provide an eBay link at this time.

Pitch is 3/8 low profile (STIHL calls it 'Picco').

Gauge is 0.050.

Drive link count is (?) - look it up or count on the IEM chain.

Philbert

 

[sweetgumsux]

Just found this video of the cs300....FF to the 1:20 second mark. Surely this guy has the chain on backwards, or it is completely dull ? He said he is cutting a piece of oak, but this video makes the chainsaw look useless.

I dont even see any chunks of wood coming out as he tries to cut. Maybe the chainsaw is clogged up with wood chips, where the sharpening stone is attached ?

 

[Philbert]

I don't know what is going on there. Hard, dry, oak is going to be hard to cut, but . . .

Photos of what I cut with my saws are in each those threads.

Philbert

 

[sweetgumsux]

CS300 just came in . The chain sure is unique....but the cutting teeth look very thin { but very sharp} and im wondering how well they will hold up to cutting several cords of hardwood. I assume the internal sharpening system only sharpens the cutting teeth, but will not grind down the risers to proper levels , as the cutting teeth degrade and get smaller over use ?

When we get a cooler day, im gonna take it out and tackle some 10 inch rd Hickory that has been aged for several years. If it cuts thru that effectively, then Ill be very happy. Im sure there is a small learning curve in using cordless battery saws as far as never pushing down on the wood being cut like is done with a gas saw.

Ill report back on how well it does on hickory rds.

 

[Philbert]

Check out the Power Sharp threads, or web site. The diamond dressing link dresses the depth gauges on each pass.

Philbert

 

[Snowchaser]

Milwaukee just came out with a 16” bar, m18 cordless saw. That with their 9.0 battery ought to be good.

 

[sweetgumsux]

Milwaukee just came out with a 16” bar, m18 cordless saw. That with their 9.0 battery ought to be good.

Wow....the milwaukee is rated at 6600 rpm....{ compared to the Oregon cs300 that is around 2800 rpms } and it comes with a 12 AH battery and quick charger. $399 + tax may be a little to much money for many homeowners or people who just need to cut 1-2 cords of wood per year.

Its interesting that they stayed with a 18 volt platform but increased the amp hour to 12 on the included battery pack.
18x12 = 216 watt hours. I assume that because they stayed with a 18 volt platform, they were able to increase the amp hours by such a large amount. I doubt we will see 12 AH battery packs for the numerous 40 volt chainsaws and most likely 6 ah packs will be the maximum , until new battery technology comes along.

I build electric bicycles and have some knowledge on batteries in relation to brushless motor system on ebikes .
Im wondering how the Milwaukee is able to get such high rpms on only a 18 volt platform, compared to the CS300 that is on a 40 volt system but getting less then half the rpms. Usually the more volts, the higher the rpms . Maybe they have some type of unique gearing in the Milwaukee that allows the lower voltage to achieve such high rpms.

 

[Snowchaser]

Ive yet to get something “fancy new” like that for free from our rep, but i think ill get him to bring one by next time so i can play with it. Not sure if it has even hit stores yet. If i get to play with one, ill definately post a review on here. Curious what my cost would be......

 

[Philbert]

There is a lot of interest in the Milwaukee saw, since a lot of guys are heavily invested in their batteries.

Look forward to the reviews.

Philbert

 

[sweetgumsux]

Tried out the CS300 today. Cut some 8 inch round cedar that was aged many years and some aged hickory.
1st impressions are :

Dont waste your time on the 1.25 AH or 2.5 AH battery packs. If you plan to use this saw for any serious cutting { 15 minutes or longer} you will at least need the 4 AH pack .

The saw cut thru the cedar just as good as my gas saws. The hickory gave it much more trouble and although it did cut thru the hickory , it took much longer then a gas chainsaw and it really pulls energy from the battery pack.

For cutting softwood, I think this chainsaw is perfect. For the average homeowner that may need to cut 1 cords or less a year of hardwood, I think this saw is perfect, as long as you have the larger AH battery pack/s. For those of us that need to cut 3-4 cords of wood per year, with some of it being hickory or eucalyptus , then I think you still need a reliable and powerful gas saw as a backup or primary tool .

I was surprised at how loud this saw was . Hearing protection should still be used especially if you will be doing a lot of cutting. I was also surprised that this has about the same weight as a 40 cc gas chainsaw. So as far as loudness and weight are concerned, the CS300 doesn't offer much improvement over similar gas saws.

For the most widely used hardwoods { oak varieties, ash , hackberry, etc} , I would assume this saw handles it well. Aged hickory can be a very tough wood to cut, even for 40 cc + gas chainsaws , so it was not a surprise to see the CS300 took a lot of time to cut it, but it did cut thru it ...you just have to not be in a hurry and let the saw do the work...do not push down on the saw, like you would a normal gas chainsaw.

Overall, I like the CS300 , but thats with only 10 minutes of time using it. I will have to log on a few hours to get a solid idea of its performance and see if the saw cuts out on bigger rounds or if the chain pops off easily, or if the oiler gets clogged, etc.

Evidently, when using the self sharpener, you shouldn't see a lot of sparks coming off the chain. If you do, you may be pressing to hard on the sharpening lever, and just grinding off to much metal from the chain. Seems like the basic idea of using the sharpener is to not let the chain get so dull, that it needs a full sharpening...but to do light tough up sharpenings as needed. In other words, dont wait until the chain is so dull, that you are getting fine sawdust and the chain wont cut. Do your light touch up sharpenings before the chain gets to dull.....

I will probably purchase the 6 amp hour battery packs.

 

[sweetgumsux]

If anyone is interested in buying a new 40 volt- 4.0 AH Oregon battery pack in original box, let me know. Im gonna go ahead and buy the
6.0 AH battery that cost $200 .

Heres some photos. If you are interested, shoot me a message/email . I will ship priority mail with tracking . I have been on ebay for 15 years with 100% positive feedback and can give you my ebay name as verification. These are selling for around $150 { with tax and shipping } on amazon/northern tool. I can sell it for $110 shipped. Can only ship to U.S. and I accept paypal.