ot - deck sealing sprayer

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woodswalker

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Hey folks, I have a deck and a wooden fence I need to seal with Thompsons or a similar spray-able sealant. I figure some of you guys have some experience with this.

With pressure treated lumber material, what type sealant do you recommend?

What type of sprayer? I know people use pump type garden sprayers, but I want to get a really good one that will last. I looked at the stihl backpack sprayer, the sg 20,and it looked really nice. Is there something better? Is this overkill? would a 30 dollar walmart do just as good and last just as long?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Robert
 
water seal is as thin as water and will spray out of just about any cheap plastic sprayer.
no need to have a dedicated sprayer for water seal, just use your garden sprayer.
 
Personally I wouldn't use Thompson's ANYTHING. When folks hire me to refinish their decks I usually use Cabot's & sometimes Benjamin-Moore.


I use semi-transparent linseed oil based stains which seal the wood & allow for grain show-through. I have gotten at least 3-4 years on heavily used decks using Cabots. IMO stay away from poly coatings as they break down
with UV rays and will peel. Once this happens they are a ROYAL PITA to remove & refinish.

On small decks I usually just brush on making sure there is no puddling. Brush clean & do several boards at a time running start to finish. DO NOT take a break & allow the stain to dry(no wet edge) as you will most certainly get
LAP MARKS.

On larger decks/fencing I sue a pump spayer. Make sure you BACK BRUSH the stain to work it in & so that it does not drip. Again, do only a small enough section that you can maintain a wet edge. Linseed or oil based coats must
be applied wet-on-wet. Once the stain dries any additional coats will only lay on the surface. Latex coats can be applied in layers.
 
Personally I wouldn't use Thompson's ANYTHING. When folks hire me to refinish their decks I usually use Cabot's & sometimes Benjamin-Moore.


I use semi-transparent linseed oil based stains which seal the wood & allow for grain show-through. I have gotten at least 3-4 years on heavily used decks using Cabots. IMO stay away from poly coatings as they break down
with UV rays and will peel. Once this happens they are a ROYAL PITA to remove & refinish.

On small decks I usually just brush on making sure there is no puddling. Brush clean & do several boards at a time running start to finish. DO NOT take a break & allow the stain to dry(no wet edge) as you will most certainly get
LAP MARKS.

On larger decks/fencing I sue a pump spayer. Make sure you BACK BRUSH the stain to work it in & so that it does not drip. Again, do only a small enough section that you can maintain a wet edge. Linseed or oil based coats must
be applied wet-on-wet. Once the stain dries any additional coats will only lay on the surface. Latex coats can be applied in layers.


I forgot to mention that the deck must be free of dirt & UV damaged wood.
If the wood has a gray, ashen color to it I always use a deck wash that has a brightener. I use Cabot's Problem Solver. Once the deck is treated make sure to use the neutralizer. This procedure makes the chlorides in the brightener inert.

Finally, on decks I always sand the surface(finish sander, no orbitals) to remove nicks & burrs on the hand rails & decking.
 

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