Newbie Forestry Logging Building Questions

[customcutter]

OK, I had asked that question about having dead or dying trees salvaged somewhere else and brought in for me to mill. But I'm sure it's pretty specific to location. Also now that I think about it, I doubt if I would want to bring diseased or pest ridden trees to my location. The beetles are giving central and south AL a fit the last few years due to drought.

 

[northmanlogging]

once the beetles are in your area, just a matter of time anyway,

Not sure, but I think once the tree is dead, the beetles move out anyway. Could be a potential source of cheap logs.

 

[customcutter]

once the beetles are in your area, just a matter of time anyway,

Not sure, but I think once the tree is dead, the beetles move out anyway. Could be a potential source of cheap logs.

I need to find out more information, I talked to the Forestry Agent a little bit last week and he indicated that the beetles don't do much damage unless the trees are already stressed. As in this case the severe drought that was going on. But I'll double check. Also wondering what the grade of lumber would be if the sap has already drained back out of the standing timber? Not talking about rotten or punky wood, just dried center wood away from the outer layers.

 

[hseII]

I need to find out more information, I talked to the Forestry Agent a little bit last week and he indicated that the beetles don't do much damage unless the trees are already stressed. As in this case the severe drought that was going on. But I'll double check. Also wondering what the grade of lumber would be if the sap has already drained back out of the standing timber? Not talking about rotten or punky wood, just dried center wood away from the outer layers.

It’s truly dependent upon the particular log.

 

[customcutter]

It’s truly dependent upon the particular log.

I guess it would depend on how long the tree has been standing since it died, the sooner the better probably?

 

[hseII]

I guess it would depend on how long the tree has been standing since it died, the sooner the better probably?

Yes Sir.

If the bark is falling off it, don’t even.

You can tell otherwise as soon as you stick a saw in it.

 

[customcutter]

Yes Sir.

If the bark is falling off it, don’t even.

You can tell otherwise as soon as you stick a saw in it.

Thank you Sir, I'm learning a lot!!!!!

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I supplied many home owners with lodge pole pine when living in Oregon. Approximately 12'' in diam and then they were three sided. When we had a large disease of Pine trees here in California about 15 years ago all the logs had to be milled because of building code. The logs we used were much larger though about 18'' average. Every body I worked with always used dry logs before starting to eliminate warpage. As they were nailing them together they ran a saw down the center to put in the insulation strips. Many used a cherry picker or tractor to put them together. Bobcats have been quite often used. Thanks

 

[customcutter]

I supplied many home owners with lodge pole pine when living in Oregon. Approximately 12'' in diam and then they were three sided. When we had a large disease of Pine trees here in California about 15 years ago all the logs had to be milled because of building code. The logs we used were much larger though about 18'' average. Every body I worked with always used dry logs before starting to eliminate warpage. As they were nailing them together they ran a saw down the center to put in the insulation strips. Many used a cherry picker or tractor to put them together. Bobcats have been quite often used. Thanks

Thanks Ted, doing my research now. Looking at different construction techniques, I was thinking at first of milling tops and bottoms and leaving the sides round, but that seems to invite rot. So I may be doing more chinking. Still looking at and trying to decide what method will be the least mtc.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Custom I have not tried many things that seem like a good plan. Chinking in many cases just does not work. That said there are those out there that claim it is the only way to go. In California for most part can not happen because all interior must be dry walled. Here is what works, if the logs are two sided top and bottom with one or more groves then the foam strips are inserted in the groves with a weather tight fit. Otherwise the logs have to be fitted together top and bottom with very very poor insulation qualities because the areas where the logs come together is thin. My house has insulation value of at least R50 which does make a difference unless only living in the house during the summer. Thanks

 

[customcutter]

I would like to use logs that are milled on at least 2 sides. When stacking, if somehow the top log could hang out over the bottom log, and have a grove (drip line) milled into, so that the water doesn't carry back to the lower log. That would seem to be ideal. I don't like the idea of milling slots into the logs top or bottom where the logs will be sitting on top of each other, there's no way for them to dry out. I've thought about different ways to lean the cants on the sawmill so as to get a slightly non-horizontal line when stacking the logs vertically when building, so that the water would naturally drain back out from between the logs. I know there needs to be some type of insulation material between the logs. Just trying to minimize it, and not spend a fortune of sealants. thanks, Ken

PS that's another reason I don't want to build where there are a ton on restrictions and codes, let me deal with the problems in my own way.

 

[hseII]

I would like to use logs that are milled on at least 2 sides. When stacking, if somehow the top log could hang out over the bottom log, and have a grove (drip line) milled into, so that the water doesn't carry back to the lower log. That would seem to be ideal. I don't like the idea of milling slots into the logs top or bottom where the logs will be sitting on top of each other, there's no way for them to dry out. I've thought about different ways to lean the cants on the sawmill so as to get a slightly non-horizontal line when stacking the logs vertically when building, so that the water would naturally drain back out from between the logs. I know there needs to be some type of insulation material between the logs. Just trying to minimize it, and not spend a fortune of sealants. thanks, Ken

PS that's another reason I don't want to build where there are a ton on restrictions and codes, let me deal with the problems in my own way.

Alabama it is then.

 

[customcutter]

Yes, I'm pretty sure. I told the wife I would check on N Florida, but I doubt it's going to work out... Would be closer the the grand daughters in Jacksonville, but only an hour or maybe 2. Not worth the hassles or extra taxes IMHO

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

There you go, I've wanted a fireplace, almost as long as I've wanted a log home, and nothing to say you can't put a wood heater in the large shop. Sometimes the answers are just staring you in the face. We get 5-6 days a year down hear that we have to turn the heat on. LOL.

Nothing wrong with the CSM, I was wanting one when Irma came through and left all these large trees down. Lot of good wood went to the chippers and dumps. I just came to the realization I'm to old to be pushing and pulling on those big pieces any more. Going to have to have some hydraulics if it's going to get done, or cables and pulleys, etc.

I had to laugh. We have roughly 2.5-3 months of "don't need to heat" weather.

Warm weather sounds nice right niw. Was -5* last morning. About 30* now, but with a 50+ mph wind.

 

[northmanlogging]

Yup wood stove has been going since the end of September. Probably won't quit until march or april. Not as cold as -5 but say 35 and damp all the time.

 

[customcutter]

I'd gladly trade you guys 20-30*. It's been in the mid to upper 80's all week. It's cooling off for us. Hope to make it to AK in the next year or two, but hope it's not on one of those dang cruise ships. I've heard the train trips are much better. Get off and on, stay a couple of days, etc.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

We have had almost a month of very pleasant mild weather. Nice to work in for sure , but only one or two wood calls a day. Which is the best part. From experience nice Oak has a great shelf life. 40s at night 60s to 65 for a high what is not to like. Thanks