chuckwood
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2008
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- 8,681
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- Location
- near the Great Smoky Mtns. Tennessee
On my place, this is what's left of an outdoor woodburning cook stove, built roughly around 1900. People used these here in the south when cooking indoors with a regular wood burning cook stove inside the house would make things unbearable. With temps in the 90's outside, firing up a wood burner in your kitchen could easily run kitchen temps way above a hundred. So you fire up the woodburner outdoors. Folks would can veggies outside on these things in water bath canners even after electric and gas stoves first became available in the 30's. AC didn't arrive here until well into the 50's. This stove once had a cast iron top on it with those round removable inserts that woodburning cook stoves have. It also had a rather complicated metal door on the front of it that had a damper for controlling air flow into the firebox. About a foot from the bottom is a a ledge going all around that held a metal grate in place, letting the ashes drop down to the bottom and allowing air to come up under the fire for hottest burn, I'm assuming. I don't have any pics of the stove when it was actually working, I'm guessing it was built from a kit or something. It was already rusting apart and missing pieces in the 60's, which is about as far back as my memory goes concerning the details of it's construction.
This year, after it warms up enough, I'm tuck-pointing all the masonry and replacing missing stones and brick, I don't want to see this bit of history crumble apart, the masonry is still in relatively good condition, it just needs some major repair work. After that, I'm dreaming about rebuilding the thing into a working stove again. Getting the original cast iron assembly is impossible, so I'm thinking of fabricating a new top using steel, some welding equipment, and a plasma cutter. The issue with a steel cooktop would be warping from heat. Would 3/8" steel be thick enough to resist warpage? The door, bottom grate, and damper setup will require some thought and engineering, but it's all doable given I have enough spare time. I don't think it would be that big a project and maybe fun to do.
If I can rebuild this thing, then I'll be prepped for the grid down apocalypse with my own woodburning cooker. I've considered how nice it would be to have a woodburning cookstove in my kitchen, but the cost would be prohibitive. My kitchen would have to be remodeled and enlarged, and I'd have not only the expense of adding a chimney but there is the cost of the stove itself, they aren't cheap.
This year, after it warms up enough, I'm tuck-pointing all the masonry and replacing missing stones and brick, I don't want to see this bit of history crumble apart, the masonry is still in relatively good condition, it just needs some major repair work. After that, I'm dreaming about rebuilding the thing into a working stove again. Getting the original cast iron assembly is impossible, so I'm thinking of fabricating a new top using steel, some welding equipment, and a plasma cutter. The issue with a steel cooktop would be warping from heat. Would 3/8" steel be thick enough to resist warpage? The door, bottom grate, and damper setup will require some thought and engineering, but it's all doable given I have enough spare time. I don't think it would be that big a project and maybe fun to do.
If I can rebuild this thing, then I'll be prepped for the grid down apocalypse with my own woodburning cooker. I've considered how nice it would be to have a woodburning cookstove in my kitchen, but the cost would be prohibitive. My kitchen would have to be remodeled and enlarged, and I'd have not only the expense of adding a chimney but there is the cost of the stove itself, they aren't cheap.