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apn73

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Hello All,

Know this is completely the wrong forum for this, but if you can help me then send me a PM. I've got Kohler Command CV15S in a lawn tractor that is giving me fits. I've had trouble keeping it running, seemed like it was a carburetor/fuel issue. I worked it through it and concluded that there was water in the gas, went out to tinker again and the cylinder and crankcase were full of gasoline, fuel is just syphoning right through and that is telling me that the float valve is history. It appears to have a Nikki carburetor and I am told that there is no rebuild kit for it, and that is what I am after. The carburetor part number is 1285393S, or at least that is the number that Kohler provides. Please send me a PM if you can help me out with this, have all the engine codes and numbers.

Thank you in advance,

Adam.
 
Hello All,

Know this is completely the wrong forum for this, but if you can help me then send me a PM. I've got Kohler Command CV15S in a lawn tractor that is giving me fits. I've had trouble keeping it running, seemed like it was a carburetor/fuel issue. I worked it through it and concluded that there was water in the gas, went out to tinker again and the cylinder and crankcase were full of gasoline, fuel is just syphoning right through and that is telling me that the float valve is history. It appears to have a Nikki carburetor and I am told that there is no rebuild kit for it, and that is what I am after. The carburetor part number is 1285393S, or at least that is the number that Kohler provides. Please send me a PM if you can help me out with this, have all the engine codes and numbers.

Thank you in advance,

Adam.

That carburetor lists for $155, shoot me the the spec number on the motor and I'll look deeper into it when I get a minute for some smaller repair kits for you.
 
A common remedy for Briggs and Kohler with those pesky cheap carbs is an Inline shutoff.

Just shut off the gas when the engine is not in use, that is the fix........



Sniff..........
 
A common remedy for Briggs and Kohler with those pesky cheap carbs is an Inline shutoff.

Just shut off the gas when the engine is not in use, that is the fix........



Sniff..........

Yep, someone had already had to do this on the briggs powered troybilt rider I bought a few years ago. I rebuilt the carb thinking that a new needle and seat would fix the problem(float was fine), but no such luck. It will fill the cylinder and crankcase with fuel if not shut off when the engine isn't running.
 
Yeah, it was pretty sad, the farker still flooded with the new carb, so that is the best they could come up with.

They learned that from their old big Horizontals, at least they put the shut off on the carb......
 
A common remedy for Briggs and Kohler with those pesky cheap carbs is an Inline shutoff.

Just shut off the gas when the engine is not in use, that is the fix........



Sniff..........
All of your posts are making me wonder if there is even a problem. Just two days earlier I was screaming around the yard with it and it was running really good, so I know that the carburetor was metering just fine, good spark, all systems go. Then it sputtered, and farted, and coughed, and hacked, and then died. Which is why I believe that there was water in the gas, could be wrong though.
 
All of your posts are making me wonder if there is even a problem. Just two days earlier I was screaming around the yard with it and it was running really good, so I know that the carburetor was metering just fine, good spark, all systems go. Then it sputtered, and farted, and coughed, and hacked, and then died. Which is why I believe that there was water in the gas, could be wrong though.

well yeah!!!!!
 
Thanks to all of you for the replies and guidance, very much appreciated!

Best,

Adam.
 
The carb listed going off the spec number on the motor should be a 1285382s, not the number you posted. That supercedes to a new number, 12853139s. $110 carb.

Kits that are available:

1275702s float $6.50
1275703s carb kit $10.50
1275737s bowl $7.50
1252104s inlet seat $30.00

First thing you need to do is give what you have a thorough cleaning and get rid of the water in the fuel.
 
If it has a fuel pump verify its not putting fuel in the case. Havent seen the pumps fill the case but they can contaminate the oil with fuel. The running issue could be an over full crankcase from the fuel contamination or it could be the electric shut of at the base of the bowl. Some of the carbs had a rubber stopper at the tip of the shut off that will swell and cause all kinds of running issues if it floats around and clogs the main jet. When the power is shut off the rubber seats back to the tip due to spring pressure so it looks right when you take it apart. The shut off is an EPA part so if you chose to remove the rubber and leave it out the engine will not be hurt. Also the power feed to the solenoid shut off will cause similar issues if it fluctuates. We had a batch of new mowers that had bad harness plugs and did not provide a good power source to the shut off that caused a lot of come backs with the customers. I have removed the tip from the shut offs to solve similar issues.
 
If it has a fuel pump verify its not putting fuel in the case. Havent seen the pumps fill the case but they can contaminate the oil with fuel. The running issue could be an over full crankcase from the fuel contamination or it could be the electric shut of at the base of the bowl. Some of the carbs had a rubber stopper at the tip of the shut off that will swell and cause all kinds of running issues if it floats around and clogs the main jet. When the power is shut off the rubber seats back to the tip due to spring pressure so it looks right when you take it apart. The shut off is an EPA part so if you chose to remove the rubber and leave it out the engine will not be hurt. Also the power feed to the solenoid shut off will cause similar issues if it fluctuates. We had a batch of new mowers that had bad harness plugs and did not provide a good power source to the shut off that caused a lot of come backs with the customers. I have removed the tip from the shut offs to solve similar issues.
It does have a fuel pump on the right side of the block. The manufacture date is '99 I believe, not sure if that means the EPA equipment is there or not. I don't see anything electric on the bottom of the bowl though.
 
The carb listed going off the spec number on the motor should be a 1285382s, not the number you posted. That supercedes to a new number, 12853139s. $110 carb.

Kits that are available:

1275702s float $6.50
1275703s carb kit $10.50
1275737s bowl $7.50
1252104s inlet seat $30.00

First thing you need to do is give what you have a thorough cleaning and get rid of the water in the fuel.
Really appreciate the help TK, knew that there had to be something for these carbs. Thank you very much for taking the time to find these numbers, very much appreciated.

Adam.
 
It is probably the fuel pump. I had the same problem on a 15S Kohler. It was a common problem on cars before the electric pumps. You can do a pressure/vacumm test on the pump, but just order a fuel pump. Change the oil and filter after you put the new pump in.
 
Just drain out all of the crappy fuel/water, install a fuel shutoff and be done with it.
This is exactly what I am going to do. The combination of dry gas a few days ago and pinching off the fuel line with a pair of vice-grips to keep the gasoline out of the engine did the trick. Changed the oil and filter, put in a new spark plug and off it went, even got the field....I mean the law mowed. Thanks very much to all of you.

Adam.
 
A bad fuel pump isn't going away. It will quit pumping. If you don't have a fuel pump pressure/vacumm tester take and crimp off the line between the pump and the carb. If fuel still gets in the oil the fuel pump diaphram is bad. Fuel pumps are much cheaper than carbs.
 

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