parts saw Dolmar PS-7900 re-build

[meglodon]

Ereplacement parts has new oiler drivers for $20

I intially tried to order one from a site that claimed they were in stock. It may have there I think. (or it might have been another site that is rebadged but the same drop ship site?) Anyway, while they list it as an option to buy, it's back ordered and they don't have it in stock to ship.

Threw some husky style flipcaps on (I like these better than the ones on it which seemed to stick and always need a screw driver to get off)

I've gotten through a couple tanks, and consider that it's broken in enough to bar it up. It is holding a consistant on the idle, and throttle is instant. On my lunch break, I pulled the muffler and checked the piston for any scoring. Looks pretty solid to me.



I also put a new chain guard that arrived on a 28" bar and chain and did some test cuts. Seems to oil great and have quite a bit of power in the cut (but it was only a 12" chunk of wood) I'll have to get in to some bigger wood with it to give it more of a shake down test.

I like how it's turning out!

 

[Tractorsaw1]

When I ordered it said 5 in stock

 

[meglodon]

When I ordered it said 5 in stock

Awesome! good luck!

 

[Tractorsaw1]

What size punch do I need to knock out the control bolt retaining pin?

 

[meglodon]

What size punch do I need to knock out the control bolt retaining pin?

hmm, not familiar with that term. Do you have a picture for reference?
I don't think I used any particular 'punches' on a pin

 

[meglodon]

for the clutch removal (if thats what you mean) I was successful in adapting a husqvarna tool that had 3 points (something like this https://www.hlsproparts.com/Clutch-Removal-Tool-for-Husqvarna-357-359-p/d31119.htm)

I've also read where people adopt a socket to look similar.

 

[Tractorsaw1]

Ya I modified the socket to get clutch off, I am looking for a tiny nail or drill bit to nock out the oiler control bolt so i can replace it. I am going to see if anyone here at work has a pin that small

 

[meglodon]

Ah, I haven't rebuilt my oiler yet but I've got a spare from the shortblock I picked up.
I'll take a look this afternoon and see what may be some options to get things pulled apart.

 

[meglodon]

Ok, so the end which doesn't have a pin (the bigger white end) unscrews and on the other side a 1/16 punch would work to drive out but in my case my punch broke when I tapped on it... (it was kinda bent a bit so I used a pick and tapped it out.)
The pin itself doesn't appear to be tapered and then the plastic part is just friction fit with the spring & an o-ring

 

[Tractorsaw1]

I measured the new pin & its a 2mm pin so I picked up a 1/16" punch to drive it out -
In the rebuild kit of parts - where does the ball bearing go in the oiler on reassembly?

 

[meglodon]

I measured the new pin & its a 2mm pin so I picked up a 1/16" punch to drive it out -
In the rebuild kit of parts - where does the ball bearing go in the oiler on reassembly?

Snagged this screen shot from a IPL I pulled (which may not be 100% your model but the oil pump is the same)
https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/part_drawings/DE/PS-7910H.pdf
Looks like the ball bearing goes into the larger plastic part that screws in (probably could just leave or reuse that part) from what I've read the other plastic part that the pump rides on is what wears down.

 

[Tractorsaw1]

ok great - No my old plastic part the shaft seemed pretty snug in there so I will put some oil in the new one & assemble it. Thanks for the help!