PICS of New Harness and Climbing Setup

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KingArbor

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Got tired of lugging around the trusty old Weaver 2D.. Invested in KOMET's Butterfly II Saddle and some new goodies from Sherrill..... I posted on ******** and have been getting alot of feedback on the ISC snap. Seems alot of people are having these open or "roll out" on them, anyone else experience this problem?

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Seems like this will be a nice step up from the traditional tail tied method I was using and heavy (but durable) Weaver saddle. The webbing on the lanyard took a good 15 minutes to work onto the rope, but I think it will be worth it in the long haul. I will probably cut off a longer length of Arbormaster for a longer lanyard (I typicaly only purchase 120ft and got the 150 this time with that in mind). The ART positioner is pricey but after much research it fit my needs perfectly, plus I like being able to make my own lanyards and changing them out to a longer length takes less than one minute. OMG the slack tender is so nice! Those who arent using a micro pulley should go out and buy one today.. New school ftw!
 
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Very nice! the only thing is having the same rope for a flip line and climbin line can be confusing sometimes. Like if something were to happen someone had to rescue you makin sure they could tell the difference and not undo the wrong one and send you crashin to the ground. I see it when i do training for people. they get up there to perform aerial rescue and the person has the same rope for everything and you have to trace where it goes wasting precious time. But your setup is awesome. Have tried the Hitch climber pulley?
 
The A.R.T. Positioner is great. Never knew how much so until I actually bought one. They're pricey so IMO they're a luxury item but well worth the cost. A slack tender pulley is the way to go. Used a Petzl Fixe for a long time until I upgraded. I've been using the Hitch Climber Pulley and really love the compact setup.:clap:
 
I've been using the Hitch Climber Pulley and really love the compact setup.:clap:[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

:agree2: Thats the best thing since condoms. ha ha
 
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I keep hearing great reviews on the hitch climber.. is everyone using it as a tender or on the bridge itself? both? The Harness cost me like $290 I think (150% price crusher! thanks to Sherrill), tack on about another $400 or so for the other goodies and gadgets, also not pictured are a set of new Buckingham spurs! I understand the ropes could get confusing, but I like having color matched gear :/ I climb and work on my companies different colored 1/2" ropes, so the new line is for personal use and around the home pruning and rec use ... I store everything in a cheap duffle bag from Walmart to keep it looking fresh and safe. Thanks for the comments!
 
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I keep hearing great reviews on the hitch climber.. is everyone using it as a tender or on the bridge itself? both?

For your saddle it would be just one carabiner attached to your ring or to the bridge itself. The pulley will have your prusik and the other carbiner hooked to it, not your saddle. very similar to your pic just the end of your rope(spliced is nice) will attach to a second hole on the pulley. and there is a third hole on the hitch climber for a second tye in spot. Expensive but its a great piece of equipment
 
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I tried one of those ISC snaps at a tradeshow a few weeks back, the gate is incredibly easy to open, and feels like it has a very light spring for tension, so takes little to no effort to open the gate completely, good luck!
 
That is a great saddle.

except for the bridge.Typical French let down.

I replaced mine with with a single eye beeline.I would love to find someone to make them in double eye in custom lengths.all the ones i find are too long.
 
This is no criticism of KingArbor's purchase but why would anyone buy a rope with a large spliced eye? Wouldn't a tight eye be more compact and therefore better? I only ask because I have the same size eye on a climbing line and I'm trying to figure out why.
 
This is no criticism of KingArbor's purchase but why would anyone buy a rope with a large spliced eye? Wouldn't a tight eye be more compact and therefore better? I only ask because I have the same size eye on a climbing line and I'm trying to figure out why.

I think the larger spliced eye is supposed to be stronger (not positive though??). If you get sherrill's blue bandit (castrating tool) you can put the bands on yourself and have the best of both worlds (see KA's pic).
 
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I'm pretty sure the size of the eye doesn't effect the strength of the splice.

The only think I can figure on the larger eyes is that you can girth hitch it. I've seen several people girth hitch it to the biner. Snugs up nice and tight.
 
except for the bridge.Typical French let down.

I replaced mine with with a single eye beeline.I would love to find someone to make them in double eye in custom lengths.all the ones i find are too long.

Yeah I saw that...funny they changed to what looks like a piece of rope...my old B'fly 1 has the thick long strap bridge, and the replaceable one I bought in '05 is thinner strap with a chafe cover on it...wonder why they changed?
 
except for the bridge.Typical French let down.

I replaced mine with with a single eye beeline.I would love to find someone to make them in double eye in custom lengths.all the ones i find are too long.

I'm not sure exactly what you are wanting. It sounds like you want a spliced eye bridge out of Beeline?

Here is why you can't find that: Most splices require the "bury" to be a certain length before it is considered safe. The double eye split tails that are commonly sold were formerly made with a locking brummel at the eyes, then the buried tails on a 30" prussic ran into each other inside the rope. (It takes a lot of extra slack in the rope to make enough expansion to allow the bury) Naturally, this was difficult to make, and it caused the rope to be a bit stiffer than desired. Shorter than 30" and the splices are not considered safe because there is not enough room to bury the tails properly.
Old style: http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Spliced-Rope-Tails/Prusik-Bee-Line-1105

The newer "grizzly spliced" tails don't apparently have that problem, since they don't rely on the buried tail for strength. Call Sherrill, they might make a custom one at a shorter length.

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Spliced-Rope-Tails/Prusik-Bee-Line-1109

I don't know why you would want Beeline for a bridge. It's tough stuff, but pretty thin. There should not be any heat issues on a bridge, so why bother with heat resistant rope?
 
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Yeah, I was trying to figure out the beeline angle as well. And what you would need sliced eyes for on a bridge? I just make my rope bridge out of a length of safety blue that I cut off of the tail of my line. Works great! :cheers:
 
This is no criticism of KingArbor's purchase but why would anyone buy a rope with a large spliced eye? Wouldn't a tight eye be more compact and therefore better? I only ask because I have the same size eye on a climbing line and I'm trying to figure out why.


I agree, I wanted a tight eye splice, but they didnt offer it on the website. Ive seen it done on the AM before though... Next time around ill be sure to go that route.
 
I agree, I wanted a tight eye splice, but they didnt offer it on the website. Ive seen it done on the AM before though... Next time around ill be sure to go that route.

I was looking at the same thing on the Sherrill site. I prefer tight eyes as well. My rope is spliced tight with a regular spliced eye. I got it before they started doing the Grizzly splice. I believe you can request what type of splice you want and they will accommodate you.
 
Somebody should buy one of those Grizzly splices and mail to Moray. I'll bet he would do a dandy "test to destruction" report on it. I would do it, but I am too poor. That, and I will never make my own grizzley splice, so how strong they are is not really important to me.

Moray seems to like tearing ropes in half.
 
you are right.it is small.

I'm not sure exactly what you are wanting. It sounds like you want a spliced eye bridge out of Beeline?

Here is why you can't find that: Most splices require the "bury" to be a certain length before it is considered safe. The double eye split tails that are commonly sold were formerly made with a locking brummel at the eyes, then the buried tails on a 30" prussic ran into each other inside the rope. (It takes a lot of extra slack in the rope to make enough expansion to allow the bury) Naturally, this was difficult to make, and it caused the rope to be a bit stiffer than desired. Shorter than 30" and the splices are not considered safe because there is not enough room to bury the tails properly.
Old style: http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Spliced-Rope-Tails/Prusik-Bee-Line-1105

The newer "grizzly spliced" tails don't apparently have that problem, since they don't rely on the buried tail for strength. Call Sherrill, they might make a custom one at a shorter length.

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Spliced-Rope-Tails/Prusik-Bee-Line-1109

I don't know why you would want Beeline for a bridge. It's tough stuff, but pretty thin. There should not be any heat issues on a bridge, so why bother with heat resistant rope?

but it is why i like it.takes up less room.I am hesitant to climb much on it,It doesn't have to be Beeline but it needs to be compact in the Eye area.I may just get the Ergovation and be done with it.It's a shame because I really like the saddle but the bridge options are frustrating.
 
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