cdahl383
ArboristSite Operative
Ok cool, maybe I can try that. Just makes me a little nervous striking one side without something supporting the other side. I used a socket to drive in the flywheel seal, but that was a lot easier to do without the shaft in the way.You can use a large punch and work your way around the seal to drive it. As big as it is, you can probably tap directly on it with a ball peen hammer. If you are feeling brave, you look to have enough room to add a small chamfer to that seal bore to ease installation. I know for Poulan 3400 saws this is a must.
Whatever you, if it seems like the seal is starting crooked, stop and try again. Once you distort the seal, it's trash.
I started chamfering the outer edge a little bit. I used a little bit of sandpaper to round off the sharp edges. I did that when the old seal was in place as that caught most of the crap. I could put some towel/rags in there at the bottom to catch any junk/shavings if I worked on it more, then just flip the saw upside down and remove the towels.
What would work best for chamfering that edge? Sandpaper is just good for sort of taking the sharp edges off, but not sure that's the best thing to use for doing more than that. I have a small dremel tool with attachments like sanding stones, that could work I guess.
I have a Poulan 3400 too, but luckily it didn't need seals. Just fuel lines, filter, and a few other minor things and I was able to get it up and running. I'll keep that in mind if I ever do the seals on that saw.
I'll take my time with driving the seal in place. Hopefully with some patience I can get it in straight the first time.