polechainsaw engines suck

[treevet]

Why can't someone put a great (read GREAT) engine on a polechainsaw? How about an ms200 engine or a tanaka engine or even a Husky (eeuucchhh) engine with some ass on a polechainsaw?

I have had a number of polechainsaws and all the engines have been dogs (ruff ruff). The two I have now you have to stand there and work the choke level back and forth (powerpruner/echo) mass times until it will run smoothly (with insufficient power). My employee has a new PP and his is the same.

I took it to the dealer and told my friend the mechanic I cannot set up the carb. He said they are very "touchy" to set up and after he did it it was a little better but quickly got worse.

Last time I tried a Stihl pp it was a dog and dropped a big steamer on the ground as well.

 

[treevet]

I mean I want one that kicks ass.....hell put a 66 mag engine on there if you got to. Let's get some power on there.

 

[treemandan]

My Stihl gas powered pole saw runs real nice. No complaints at all. I have removed the spark arrester though and that may help.

Are you using the kombi system or a real stick saw?

 

[treemandan]

Why can't someone put a great (read GREAT) engine on a polechainsaw? How about an ms200 engine or a tanaka engine or even a Husky (eeuucchhh) engine with some ass on a polechainsaw?

I have had a number of polechainsaws and all the engines have been dogs (ruff ruff). The two I have now you have to stand there and work the choke level back and forth (powerpruner/echo) mass times until it will run smoothly (with insufficient power). My employee has a new PP and his is the same.

I took it to the dealer and told my friend the mechanic I cannot set up the carb. He said they are very "touchy" to set up and after he did it it was a little better but quickly got worse.

Last time I tried a Stihl pp it was a dog and dropped a big steamer on the ground as well.

I have used those stick saws only a few times. I think they take a beating. I think maybe if it seems the motor can't provide the power its because of something binding in the extension assembly. That is a long distance for the power to travel and it won't take much to slow it down. I don't know what powerheads they use, the stick saws I have run seem to work ok.
Of course there is something to be said about sticking a new carb on the dam thing. I mean how many times can you mess around around with it?

 

[treemandan]

It's not the kombi system....it's about six years old....I believe it's the HT101.

Mine is the kombi. I only have the weed wacker and hedge sheers. Both seem to work vey well. I don't know exactly what motor, its says km 90 R, which is more power than needed for the wacker. I don't know about putting a saw on it, I think something would snap in the drive assembly.

 

[isaaccarlson]

open up the muff and intake/exhaust a little and new carbopcorn:

 

[tree md]

The Stihl power pruners are the only one's I have ever used that were worth a dam. I had an HT100 and an HT101. Both were pretty decent.

The Echo and Poulan pruners I have used have all been ####.

 

[lxt]

Vet....try these modifications on the power pruner (echo)...Mine kicks azz! I love it, but much like you I hated it untill My Dad modified it (best small engine mechanic around here)

1st..remove the nylon slip sheave at the cutting head assembly, you will have to take the saw head apart & drill 2 holes north to south & east to west which will make the unit a direct drive.....slide to pins into the holes or rivets work well, peen ends over & done.

2nd... remove carrier bearing from the x-tension shaft...this creates alot of drag & boggs down the engine, it is riveted in so you will have to grind rivet ends off, NOTE: when pole is fully extended you may notice a slight vibration.

3rd... remove spark arrester, drill two 3/8 holes into muffler assembly & make sure the trigger cable is giving you full throttle!

a hotter plug & some work on the oiler/gearing helps too.


once you modify it the difference is night & day, but make sure its not under warranty as the above will void that!! mines about 5-6yrs old.


good luck.


LXT.............

 

[treevet]

Vet....try these modifications on the power pruner (echo)...Mine kicks azz! I love it, but much like you I hated it untill My Dad modified it (best small engine mechanic around here)

1st..remove the nylon slip sheave at the cutting head assembly, you will have to take the saw head apart & drill 2 holes north to south & east to west which will make the unit a direct drive.....slide to pins into the holes or rivets work well, peen ends over & done.

2nd... remove carrier bearing from the x-tension shaft...this creates alot of drag & boggs down the engine, it is riveted in so you will have to grind rivet ends off, NOTE: when pole is fully extended you may notice a slight vibration.

3rd... remove spark arrester, drill two 3/8 holes into muffler assembly & make sure the trigger cable is giving you full throttle!

a hotter plug & some work on the oiler/gearing helps too.


once you modify it the difference is night & day, but make sure its not under warranty as the above will void that!! mines about 5-6yrs old.


good luck.


LXT.............

thanks LXT I am gonna put my gm onto this post as he is up to doing this stuff.

 

[treemandan]

Vet....try these modifications on the power pruner (echo)...Mine kicks azz! I love it, but much like you I hated it untill My Dad modified it (best small engine mechanic around here)

1st..remove the nylon slip sheave at the cutting head assembly, you will have to take the saw head apart & drill 2 holes north to south & east to west which will make the unit a direct drive.....slide to pins into the holes or rivets work well, peen ends over & done.

2nd... remove carrier bearing from the x-tension shaft...this creates alot of drag & boggs down the engine, it is riveted in so you will have to grind rivet ends off, NOTE: when pole is fully extended you may notice a slight vibration.

3rd... remove spark arrester, drill two 3/8 holes into muffler assembly & make sure the trigger cable is giving you full throttle!

a hotter plug & some work on the oiler/gearing helps too.


once you modify it the difference is night & day, but make sure its not under warranty as the above will void that!! mines about 5-6yrs old.


good luck.


LXT.............

I always felt they had a lot of drag.

 

[tree md]

Very informative LXT, I'd rep you but I got to spread some around first...

 

[treevet]

seems I can't ever rep anymore....mebee its cause they banned my ass for a couple of days lol

 

[Slvrmple72]

What you need is one of them thar harnesses from the movie Aliens that the Space Marines wore to carry the big machine guns with. Put a big saw engine on it and a 15' extension with a 12" bar and you would be in business!

Until then I am still loving my HT101! It is not a tired old dog yet.

 

[TreeClimber57]

Mine is the kombi. I only have the weed wacker and hedge sheers. Both seem to work vey well. I don't know exactly what motor, its says km 90 R, which is more power than needed for the wacker. I don't know about putting a saw on it, I think something would snap in the drive assembly.

I have the HT 131 as well as a Kombi with the KM 130 head. Both work well, the HT 131 has some benefit as it is telescopic, the KM 130 does have an extension - which I have used as well. Not sure how well the KM 90 would be though, the 130 has 36 cc and almost 2hp. (actually the 131 and 130 are pretty close to each other for power) Never had a problem with either one..

 

[treevet]

I tried out the Stihls and it seemed they had LESS power than the Power Pruners. I want way more power....power you can't even use. Just like I want my motorcycle to flip right over when I hit the throttle but mine doesn't have quite that kind of power.

 

[tree MDS]

Just curious what all you guys use these things for?? Seems sorta like a land lubber tool..

 

[sgreanbeans]

I have a Sthil, had a PP, both ran good for me, PP has more power, but has more weight. I, as most of you, do a lot of hairy stuff, pole saws let me cut in places I don't really want to be, great for spring pole relief cuts on storm damage.
Also use in the tree, If I have a cut that will have a bad swing for me, I set the lines, scoot back away, have the boys send it up, reach over and let it swing, I'm safely outta the way and the branch, or whatever goes where I want it to and I'm safe.

Take out the spark arrester for shur, get a boost there. But your right, a 200 engine would be great!

 

[TreeClimber57]

I think the Stihl's are 4Mix if not mistaken, which makes a different engine than the 200.

However, there is not much difference in the ratings, assuming you have the larger Stihl.

The HT 131 - which I have is 36.3cc and 1.9 hp.
The KM 130 - is 36.3cc and 1.9hp.

The 200T is 35.2cc and 2.1 hp.

Hard to really compare the two, and the pole saws likely loose some power driving that shaft, vs the 200T having chain directly attached.

 

[tree MDS]

I have a Sthil, had a PP, both ran good for me, PP has more power, but has more weight. I, as most of you, do a lot of hairy stuff, pole saws let me cut in places I don't really want to be, great for spring pole relief cuts on storm damage.
Also use in the tree, If I have a cut that will have a bad swing for me, I set the lines, scoot back away, have the boys send it up, reach over and let it swing, I'm safely outta the way and the branch, or whatever goes where I want it to and I'm safe.

Take out the spark arrester for shur, get a boost there. But your right, a 200 engine would be great!

I guess I can see their usefulness. I have a brand new stick saw I've been waiting to use for those "suicide cuts".

 

[tree md]

Like Greenbeans said they are great for getting back off tension cuts when doing storm damage. I used one in the tree doing storm damage as well until I tore one up. They're good for cutting yourself a path up a tree when it has been totaled by a storm.

I also like to use it on light prunes when you are just trying to cut back limbs from the shingles. You can make good cuts at branch unions when the limb is too flimsy for the polesaw and too thick for a regular pruner.