post a picture and description of your Splitter modifications
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Tired of chasing large chunks to re-split?
Honestly...
Number one...get a pulp hook.
Baileys has a good one with a triangular ground, replaceable tip.
Number two...
a peevey or cant hook. A peevey is my personal choice, in 36".
Third (and most important)...Weld a 1/2" thick plate on the trailing edge of your four-way wedge. I no longer have mine to measure but two inches wider on each side than the exiting wing, and existing four-way depth plus extension equals 16". (The one pictured is too narrow as you can see based on the split shown, as the wedge spreads the round considerably.) You now have a square four-way instead of the swept forward wing. The swept forward wing design is very cool looking (who gives a crap about that), but if your working large rounds into stove wood it works against you. The purpose (I'm describing) is to make a shelf to hold the top splits for re-splitting within reach of the operator. Split with four-way in lowered position. Raise four-way to re-split lower splits if needed. Then lower four-way and continue.
Your rhythm can be splitting wood, or with the swept forward wing, pulling big chunks to re-split from the ground or out-feed table. With the shelf wedge and pulp hook you do not have to take you hand off the valve.
-For less than a hundred bucks, less if you can weld, you can double the production and efficiency of your TW-5 splitter. Meaning re-splitting as you go, with less effort and handling. If you don't like it, cut it off, nothing lost. (This assumes one man operation, running the splitter from the log lift side, and round cut 16" in length.)
Forth. Leave hitched to a quad, lawn tractor, etc. and avoid messing with rear support leg.
Fifth. Always level the splitter side to side for best log lift operation.
Six. Replace the key pins on the log lift (shown in photo number two) with cotter pins to avoid dragging lift cylinder or log lift down the road when towing.
Visual:
The last photo shows original wedge. The splits will end up on the out-feed table or ground. Either way they will need to be lifted to reposition to split again. In the second picture the operator can slide the closest piece to him to the log lift, out of the way. The far side can be slid to the beam with a pulp hook. No lifting. No stepping around the wedge to the out feed table. No picking rounds off the ground on the opposite side of the splitter from where your working.
I just saw you use an out door boiler. Disregard all of the above.
Honestly...
Number one...get a pulp hook.
Baileys has a good one with a triangular ground, replaceable tip.
Number two...
a peevey or cant hook. A peevey is my personal choice, in 36".
Third (and most important)...Weld a 1/2" thick plate on the trailing edge of your four-way wedge. I no longer have mine to measure but two inches wider on each side than the exiting wing, and existing four-way depth plus extension equals 16". (The one pictured is too narrow as you can see based on the split shown, as the wedge spreads the round considerably.) You now have a square four-way instead of the swept forward wing. The swept forward wing design is very cool looking (who gives a crap about that), but if your working large rounds into stove wood it works against you. The purpose (I'm describing) is to make a shelf to hold the top splits for re-splitting within reach of the operator. Split with four-way in lowered position. Raise four-way to re-split lower splits if needed. Then lower four-way and continue.
Your rhythm can be splitting wood, or with the swept forward wing, pulling big chunks to re-split from the ground or out-feed table. With the shelf wedge and pulp hook you do not have to take you hand off the valve.
-For less than a hundred bucks, less if you can weld, you can double the production and efficiency of your TW-5 splitter. Meaning re-splitting as you go, with less effort and handling. If you don't like it, cut it off, nothing lost. (This assumes one man operation, running the splitter from the log lift side, and round cut 16" in length.)
Forth. Leave hitched to a quad, lawn tractor, etc. and avoid messing with rear support leg.
Fifth. Always level the splitter side to side for best log lift operation.
Six. Replace the key pins on the log lift (shown in photo number two) with cotter pins to avoid dragging lift cylinder or log lift down the road when towing.
Visual:
The last photo shows original wedge. The splits will end up on the out-feed table or ground. Either way they will need to be lifted to reposition to split again. In the second picture the operator can slide the closest piece to him to the log lift, out of the way. The far side can be slid to the beam with a pulp hook. No lifting. No stepping around the wedge to the out feed table. No picking rounds off the ground on the opposite side of the splitter from where your working.
I just saw you use an out door boiler. Disregard all of the above.
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You have an OWB, burn longer wood. Less cutting, less splitting and more fun. This is 16" splits that I sell, I split 32" with same splitter. I cut 32" for my OWB, much faster.
Thank you for your repliesTired of chasing large chunks to re-split?
Honestly...
Number one...get a pulp hook.
Baileys has a good one with a triangular ground, replaceable tip.
Number two...
a peevey or cant hook. A peevey is my personal choice, in 36".
Third (and most important)...Weld a 1/2" thick plate on the trailing edge of your four-way wedge. I no longer have mine to measure but two inches wider on each side than the exiting wing, and existing four-way depth plus extension equals 16". (The one pictured is too narrow as you can see based on the split shown, as the wedge spreads the round considerably.) You now have a square four-way instead of the swept forward wing. The swept forward wing design is very cool looking (who gives a crap about that), but if your working large rounds into stove wood it works against you. The purpose (I'm describing) is to make a shelf to hold the top splits for re-splitting within reach of the operator. Split with four-way in lowered position. Raise four-way to re-split lower splits if needed. Then lower four-way and continue.
Your rhythm can be splitting wood, or with the swept forward wing, pulling big chunks to re-split from the ground or out-feed table. With the shelf wedge and pulp hook you do not have to take you hand off the valve.
-For less than a hundred bucks, less if you can weld, you can double the production and efficiency of your TW-5 splitter. Meaning re-splitting as you go, with less effort and handling. If you don't like it, cut it off, nothing lost. (This assumes one man operation, running the splitter from the log lift side, and round cut 16" in length.)
Forth. Leave hitched to a quad, lawn tractor, etc. and avoid messing with rear support leg.
Fifth. Always level the splitter side to side for best log lift operation.
Six. Replace the key pins on the log lift (shown in photo number two) with cotter pins to avoid dragging lift cylinder or log lift down the road when towing.
Visual:
View attachment 623710 View attachment 623716 View attachment 623717
The last photo shows original wedge. The splits will end up on the out-feed table or ground. Either way they will need to be lifted to reposition to split again. In the second picture the operator can slide the closest piece to him to the log lift, out of the way. The far side can be slid to the beam with a pulp hook. No lifting. No stepping around the wedge to the out feed table. No picking rounds off the ground on the opposite side of the splitter from where your working.
I just saw you use an out door boiler. Disregard all of the above.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Correct. And correct.
Large rounds really spread out to each side due to the TW wide wedge design, and the halves can roll to the side and onto the ground. The photo shows this pretty well. Rolling to the ground, opposite side of log lift is a big hassle, because it has to be picked up by hand. Now the splitter wedge is causing additional work that can be almost completely avoided with a shelf or table style four-way wing.
Initially I was going to go wider but did not because I thought it might interfere with pulling the lower splits forward. However wider should be much better, 2" wider than the existing wing on each side (or more, as wide as the out-feed table even, where the bottom of the sides starts to flair), and I don't think that accessing lower splits will be a problem.
(For really big narly rounds the four-way should be taken off. Here is the disadvantage of the shelf wedge on a TW. It is quite heavy to remove...and having a waist high place to set it is preferable to having to pick it off the ground when ready to use again.)
Simply raise the four-way, pull the splits ahead to re-split if need be, and lower the four-way again. Pull the left half in this photo to the log lift. The right half to the beam. Repeat, the left half to the log lift, right half to the beam. Repeat. No re-splitting from the out-feed table, split pile or the ground.
Edit: internet is very slow tonight.
I think this piece of Oak was about 28"-30"
Hope this answered you question.
I think your really going to like that once you use it and find your own technique and rhythm.
Sometimes in the high position the tail weight makes the wedge hang up or the front bind coming back down and requires a bump or tap. Put some time on it and fine tune what works. If that become a huge issue just shorten the length a little, or try flipping it over first, for smaller splits on the bottom.
When I bought the TW I ran less than two cord through it before having the wedge modified by a welding shop.
Sometimes in the high position the tail weight makes the wedge hang up or the front bind coming back down and requires a bump or tap. Put some time on it and fine tune what works. If that become a huge issue just shorten the length a little, or try flipping it over first, for smaller splits on the bottom.
When I bought the TW I ran less than two cord through it before having the wedge modified by a welding shop.
Shorthen the handle for easier swinging
Shorthen the handle for easier swinging
High speed, low drag!
How has the four-way wedge mod worked for you?
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