No, its not permanate. I made some brackets I welded to the trailer. The feet on the tank are looped, I slide the tank on the brackets, then use a ratchet strap to secure.
Post your helpful chainsaw/cutting tips and tricks.
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No, its not permanate. I made some brackets I welded to the trailer. The feet on the tank are looped, I slide the tank on the brackets, then use a ratchet strap to secure.
gwiley
Addicted to ArboristSite
My tool belt with hatchet and wedges, chaps, gloves, vest and helmet are all in a gym bag that I grab when I go. After a cutting day I lay everything out to dry then pack it away until next weekend.
pullstart cord ,lighter, knife extra pullstart assembley.
WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
HighGuy
ArboristSite Operative
For all the cold weather guys, like me. If you like luxury and warmth for you, your oil and what not, use a colman lantern in a bucket or make a vented "hot box". We even use one in a bucket ice fishing to sit on. Been using one for about 20 yrs.ice fishing. Keep it opened up enough (chunk of 2x6 green treat across the top and it spills heat right up your frontside. Big enough box and put bar oil, extra gloves, and dry warm socks, or what ever and runs most of the day cheap. Just watch the venting, so it doesn't get too hot.
Or is it just a Cheesehead thing? -lol-
Or is it just a Cheesehead thing? -lol-
WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
just yesterday got to the sawing site and realized i'd left my toolbox on the wookbench at shop.
_nothing_ in the truck-save the tuner.
but had _three_ saws ready to go, and got away with no tools for the day.
so two lessons. pack a little spare kit in the truck, and always have a spare saw--or two.
when light is getting short it's much faster/easier to swap saws than to stop to touch up a chain or top off the fuel.
RobertN
ArboristSite Operative
I am a homeowner with 5 acres. I keep the property up, and cut for firewood. I have been cutting firewood since I was a teenager in the late '70's.
- Always make sure the saw works before an outing, whether at home or in field. Even if I ran it two days ago. Kind relates to firefighting; always test fire the saw on the ground before taking it on the roof ect. The saws on the engines get started, checked, adjusted ect once a week during the weekly inspections of the fire engine.
- Take all the saws. I only have three saws, of three different size. My 024 is in process of rebuild, but I borrow my Dad's. If something happens to one saw, it does not ruin the whole day, two hour ride to wood cutting site ect.
- I have fuel cans specific to the tool. Diesel for the tractor is in the yellow diesel can. Regular gas is in a marked can. 2-stroke mix gas is in it's own marked can. My wife, dad, and neighbor use the tractor. My wife uses the various 2-stroke tools we have too. No way I want to gas the diesel engine in the tractor, or straight gas the chainsaws or weedeaters.
- I use dish soap bottles for bar oil. I have two that I fill from 1 gallon jugs. The 1100CD and 024 are easy to fill, but my 335xpt is harder to get oil in to. It makes it east to add a little oil on the bar/chain if needed too.
- My ammo can has screnches for the Stihl and Husky, tiny screw driver for carb adjustment, a rag for wiping "stuff", a soft bristle paintbrush for dusting the air filter off, two sharp spare chains for each saw, and a new in box spark plug for each saw. There is also a file/guide for each type of chain in the box.
- Have a separate box with my collection of gloves, and Husky helmet/muff/shield combo. Box also has my weedeadter/brusher shoulder harness, and an old wildland fire outer shirt/ppe. Very visible if I weedeat or are cutting near the road. And buttons up nicely, velcro wrist adjustment.
- If going away to cut wood, always carry my portable toolbox. Wrenches, sockets, ratchets, zip ties, duct tape, electrical tape, couple gauges of insulated wire, pliers, wire cutter/stripper, small putty knives, and some other odds and ends.
- At home usually refuel in the garage. Always blow the saw off, check chain, filter ect as long as I have the 60 gallon compressor right there.
- I always have my sledge and wedge at home, sometimes carry when cutting in the woods.
-- What I do not have, that I want to get, is chaps, and wedges. Couple days ago, the neighbor nicked his jeans with a saw... Based on this thread, would also like to start carrying a hatchet.
--I do not have a decent first aid kit for out in the field. Worse, I am and EMT, so I KNOW I should have one... Even worser, I am first aid merit badge counselor, and one of the requirements is for the boys to make one. I do have one, but it is pretty simple and usually in my Scout pack. Will put that on this weeks todo list.
- Always make sure the saw works before an outing, whether at home or in field. Even if I ran it two days ago. Kind relates to firefighting; always test fire the saw on the ground before taking it on the roof ect. The saws on the engines get started, checked, adjusted ect once a week during the weekly inspections of the fire engine.
- Take all the saws. I only have three saws, of three different size. My 024 is in process of rebuild, but I borrow my Dad's. If something happens to one saw, it does not ruin the whole day, two hour ride to wood cutting site ect.
- I have fuel cans specific to the tool. Diesel for the tractor is in the yellow diesel can. Regular gas is in a marked can. 2-stroke mix gas is in it's own marked can. My wife, dad, and neighbor use the tractor. My wife uses the various 2-stroke tools we have too. No way I want to gas the diesel engine in the tractor, or straight gas the chainsaws or weedeaters.
- I use dish soap bottles for bar oil. I have two that I fill from 1 gallon jugs. The 1100CD and 024 are easy to fill, but my 335xpt is harder to get oil in to. It makes it east to add a little oil on the bar/chain if needed too.
- My ammo can has screnches for the Stihl and Husky, tiny screw driver for carb adjustment, a rag for wiping "stuff", a soft bristle paintbrush for dusting the air filter off, two sharp spare chains for each saw, and a new in box spark plug for each saw. There is also a file/guide for each type of chain in the box.
- Have a separate box with my collection of gloves, and Husky helmet/muff/shield combo. Box also has my weedeadter/brusher shoulder harness, and an old wildland fire outer shirt/ppe. Very visible if I weedeat or are cutting near the road. And buttons up nicely, velcro wrist adjustment.
- If going away to cut wood, always carry my portable toolbox. Wrenches, sockets, ratchets, zip ties, duct tape, electrical tape, couple gauges of insulated wire, pliers, wire cutter/stripper, small putty knives, and some other odds and ends.
- At home usually refuel in the garage. Always blow the saw off, check chain, filter ect as long as I have the 60 gallon compressor right there.
- I always have my sledge and wedge at home, sometimes carry when cutting in the woods.
-- What I do not have, that I want to get, is chaps, and wedges. Couple days ago, the neighbor nicked his jeans with a saw... Based on this thread, would also like to start carrying a hatchet.
--I do not have a decent first aid kit for out in the field. Worse, I am and EMT, so I KNOW I should have one... Even worser, I am first aid merit badge counselor, and one of the requirements is for the boys to make one. I do have one, but it is pretty simple and usually in my Scout pack. Will put that on this weeks todo list.
andrew346
ArboristSite Operative
Id love to read some cutting tips- especially any pointers on felling. I remember watching a video on youtube where the guy said that when he was cutting the diagonal section of the face, he took a twig and stuck it in the far edge of the horzontal cut hed just made. that way in a larger tree it gave him the point to aim for to make the two axis of the notch marry up.
gwiley
Addicted to ArboristSite
This may sound silly and simple, but carry logs to your "landing" or transport site before bucking.
Trees under 12" DBH can be cut to 6-8' lengths (softwoods even longer) which can be shouldered for 20-50 feet. The trick is to lift one end of the log and walk under it until your shoulder is beyond the mid-point then stand up under the log with a hand over the top and let it balance itself on your shoulder. You can lift heavier logs than you think with this technique and can be faster than fooling with skidding if the distance to the equipment is right.
Heavy duty garden wagons (<$100 at big box stores) with pneumatic tires are great for dragging rounds and 4' logs out of the woods. They are narrow enough to scoot between obstacles and can greatly reduce your workload. This is particularly good for places where you are removing trees from someone elses property and they don't want equipment in that part of the woods or if the terrain is just a bit too dicey for a tractor/truck.
Trees under 12" DBH can be cut to 6-8' lengths (softwoods even longer) which can be shouldered for 20-50 feet. The trick is to lift one end of the log and walk under it until your shoulder is beyond the mid-point then stand up under the log with a hand over the top and let it balance itself on your shoulder. You can lift heavier logs than you think with this technique and can be faster than fooling with skidding if the distance to the equipment is right.
Heavy duty garden wagons (<$100 at big box stores) with pneumatic tires are great for dragging rounds and 4' logs out of the woods. They are narrow enough to scoot between obstacles and can greatly reduce your workload. This is particularly good for places where you are removing trees from someone elses property and they don't want equipment in that part of the woods or if the terrain is just a bit too dicey for a tractor/truck.
Thanks for all the tips. I learned a few more good ones I never thought of. Anything to help make cutting easier/faster is appreciated. How about any tips/tricks in the shop? Anybody make a custom tool for working/repairing saws?
constantine
ArboristSite Operative
I have a "PowerPull" to help with this, along with log tongs and a cant hook. When you cut it, you gotta move it.
constantine
ArboristSite Operative
I like to hand file my chains, and have a bench-mount filing jig ready to go. Mine is a Stihl, a little pricey but very solid and well-made. I stick to one kind of chain (Oregon 72LGX) and accumulate about half a dozen loops before filing them all at once. Good way to pass two or three hours on a rainy day.
when i go out to cut we already have make shift logging roads made so i have an old lawnmower trailer i put behind the quad and i have one of those $50 Rubbermaid lockable tool boxes i mounted on it and i keep all my tools my chaps helmet saws an extra saw extra bars files screwdrivers spare pull cords everything i would need
heres one of my favorite tricks ive learned tale an old hydraulic hose clamp cut it and use it to clean out your bar it works wonders
heres one of my favorite tricks ive learned tale an old hydraulic hose clamp cut it and use it to clean out your bar it works wonders
gwiley
Addicted to ArboristSite
A few felling tips:
Try the open face scarf
I converted to the open face cut for most of my falling and have enjoyed fewer surprises. The key is to make sure that the hinge stays in-tact as long as possible - the traditional scarf will force the hinge to break while the tree is only 1/2 way down.
Felling Wedges on Medium DBH Trees
Trees with a DBH of under 20" can be tricky to wedge, especially if you are trying to make a longer hinge by cutting a deeper scarf. You can't drive a wedge at 90deg to the hinge - it will be too long. Use 2 wedges parallel to the hinge one driven in from each side.
Stacking Wedges
If you need a taller wedge you can stack 2 of them, however this is really hard to do if you drive one directly on top of another. A better approach is to drive the first wedge at 45deg angle to the hinge, then drive the second wedge at 90deg to the first (45deg to hinge in the other direction). This will reduce the odds of spitting a wedge out and can double your taper.
Try the open face scarf
I converted to the open face cut for most of my falling and have enjoyed fewer surprises. The key is to make sure that the hinge stays in-tact as long as possible - the traditional scarf will force the hinge to break while the tree is only 1/2 way down.
Felling Wedges on Medium DBH Trees
Trees with a DBH of under 20" can be tricky to wedge, especially if you are trying to make a longer hinge by cutting a deeper scarf. You can't drive a wedge at 90deg to the hinge - it will be too long. Use 2 wedges parallel to the hinge one driven in from each side.
Stacking Wedges
If you need a taller wedge you can stack 2 of them, however this is really hard to do if you drive one directly on top of another. A better approach is to drive the first wedge at 45deg angle to the hinge, then drive the second wedge at 90deg to the first (45deg to hinge in the other direction). This will reduce the odds of spitting a wedge out and can double your taper.
AT sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
I duct-tape a bar nut to the inside handle of all my saws. It stays there forever or you need it. Cheap insurance when you're far from the workbench.
isaaccarlson
Addicted to ArboristSite
I carry a big safety pin to clean out bar rails and oiler holes, etc
Just clip it inside your pocket or jacket and its there when you need it. works great. It also works wonders on splinters.
Just clip it inside your pocket or jacket and its there when you need it. works great. It also works wonders on splinters.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
I don't go far to cut from my SUV, so I leave quite a few things in the trunk, but I do carry an orange Home Depot 5 gal bucket into the site with a wedge, my Stihl file set, a few shop towels, and my helmet, upside down. Hard to lose an orange bucket.
When I run out of gas, I drop the helmet in the bucket, put my scabbard on the saw, pick up my insulated hat, and head back to the car to gas up and change chains. When I get back to the site, I switch hat for helmet, drop the scabbard in the bucket, and go back to work.
I used to carry a 5 gal tank of compressed air for clean up, but find the Stihl tool is about all I need. I like the idea of a small brush though. I'm going to try it.
When I run out of gas, I drop the helmet in the bucket, put my scabbard on the saw, pick up my insulated hat, and head back to the car to gas up and change chains. When I get back to the site, I switch hat for helmet, drop the scabbard in the bucket, and go back to work.
I used to carry a 5 gal tank of compressed air for clean up, but find the Stihl tool is about all I need. I like the idea of a small brush though. I'm going to try it.
WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
shop trick: invert saw in vise for different attack on chain for filing. yo (heard it here you know).
Tool Tips:
I carry my basic tools in a Kevlar bank bag hung from a carabiner clipped to my belt at the middle of my back. That way it goes Spencer tape, wedges, tools, as I move my hand around my right side from front to back. The bags come with a little slot to pull the zipper through so that it can be locked; this needs Dremeled off to allow the carabiner through. Insist on Kevlar as it is nearly cut-proof (by design) and can carry chains, screnches, tweakers, etc without being a cut hazard. I can probably come up with a few if anybody's interested.
PPE:
I like to carry a Camelbak with water in it. I have one of the carrying pouches that's arranged like a backpack. Water goes over my left shoulder; over the right shoulder is a leather "pu55y" pad to keep the chain off my neck, and triple-flange earplugs in a plastic box hung from a ball chain. The back pocket on the carrier contains a first-aid kit.
When I'm cruising timber, I carry the whole apparatus in the backpack portion of my vest so that it's all there if I need it. The Camelbak hose comes over the left shoulder, as usual, and is pinned in place by my compass lanyard.
I like to flip my gloves inside-out -- that is, rough-out. It's more comfy inside and affords better grip. You need to poke a couple of holes to pull the draw tabs through. Also, go one size smaller than usual because a lot of space wasted in hiding seams is gained when you turn 'em inside-out.
You can easily repair chaps if ONLY the outer shell is damaged by laying a square of duct tape under the hole, adhesive side out, and patching with Shoe Goo. Keep tape and Goo off of the Kevlar layers.
Falling Tips:
Dropping trees likely to barber-chair (leaning alders come to mind), bore straight through a couple of inches above your back cut. It'll still barber-chair, true, but it'll stop at the bore cut. The rest of the stem will fall as usual.
Dropping small, rotten snags can be especially dangerous; I've had 'em bind on the face cut. The best way I have found to prevent this is to cut European-style, where the angle cut comes before the flat face cut. This does two things -- one, it puts lass actual force on the bar because it is at a diagonal. Two, because the diagonal is a "longer" cut, you have a much better chance to get a safety wedge in there.
Maintenance Tips:
After every use of a saw, at the very least blow or wipe out the filter and clutch area. Makes it easier to keep an eye on things. You'll know when things are going south sooner just because you're looking at it that much closer, that much more often.
Don't forget to keep the bar dressed! It's cheap and easy! I can't stress this one enough.
Sharpen however works for you, but be prepared for your habits to change as time goes on. Don't get stuck in your ways.
Finally:
Kudos on the magnet idea. Slapping one in each of my kits tomorrow morning. I have three -- one for home, one for the field, and one for the shop.
I carry my basic tools in a Kevlar bank bag hung from a carabiner clipped to my belt at the middle of my back. That way it goes Spencer tape, wedges, tools, as I move my hand around my right side from front to back. The bags come with a little slot to pull the zipper through so that it can be locked; this needs Dremeled off to allow the carabiner through. Insist on Kevlar as it is nearly cut-proof (by design) and can carry chains, screnches, tweakers, etc without being a cut hazard. I can probably come up with a few if anybody's interested.
PPE:
I like to carry a Camelbak with water in it. I have one of the carrying pouches that's arranged like a backpack. Water goes over my left shoulder; over the right shoulder is a leather "pu55y" pad to keep the chain off my neck, and triple-flange earplugs in a plastic box hung from a ball chain. The back pocket on the carrier contains a first-aid kit.
When I'm cruising timber, I carry the whole apparatus in the backpack portion of my vest so that it's all there if I need it. The Camelbak hose comes over the left shoulder, as usual, and is pinned in place by my compass lanyard.
I like to flip my gloves inside-out -- that is, rough-out. It's more comfy inside and affords better grip. You need to poke a couple of holes to pull the draw tabs through. Also, go one size smaller than usual because a lot of space wasted in hiding seams is gained when you turn 'em inside-out.
You can easily repair chaps if ONLY the outer shell is damaged by laying a square of duct tape under the hole, adhesive side out, and patching with Shoe Goo. Keep tape and Goo off of the Kevlar layers.
Falling Tips:
Dropping trees likely to barber-chair (leaning alders come to mind), bore straight through a couple of inches above your back cut. It'll still barber-chair, true, but it'll stop at the bore cut. The rest of the stem will fall as usual.
Dropping small, rotten snags can be especially dangerous; I've had 'em bind on the face cut. The best way I have found to prevent this is to cut European-style, where the angle cut comes before the flat face cut. This does two things -- one, it puts lass actual force on the bar because it is at a diagonal. Two, because the diagonal is a "longer" cut, you have a much better chance to get a safety wedge in there.
Maintenance Tips:
After every use of a saw, at the very least blow or wipe out the filter and clutch area. Makes it easier to keep an eye on things. You'll know when things are going south sooner just because you're looking at it that much closer, that much more often.
Don't forget to keep the bar dressed! It's cheap and easy! I can't stress this one enough.
Sharpen however works for you, but be prepared for your habits to change as time goes on. Don't get stuck in your ways.
Finally:
Kudos on the magnet idea. Slapping one in each of my kits tomorrow morning. I have three -- one for home, one for the field, and one for the shop.
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