Poulan 2300AV

[Loggerhead]

Hi ya'll...after inquiring on a problem I was having with this Poulan and reading several other generous responses to problems that others like myself were having, I decided that it would certainly be advantageous to register and learn from some very experienced individuals with similar interests...I was hoping that perhaps "FISH" might see this post and advise me of the most likely problem that I'm having with this saw since he has one as well. I just got the saw running again after it sat unused for quite a long period of time but I learned a long time ago to store equipment with empty gas tanks and carburetors as dry as possible. I use fuel stabilizer habitually and although this saw sat for at least two years, it wasn't the least bit gummed up. I replaced the crumbling fuel line first but couldn't get the saw to fire except by shooting fuel into the carb throat. When I couldn't get it to pull fuel on its own from the tank, I cleaned the carburetor and replaced the pump and metering diaphragms: Problem Solved...however, I can't get the saw to idle and vaguely remember that this problem was beginning prior to the 2 year storage...hoping "Fish" or somone else might know of a characteristic or most likely problem of the 2300 that affects idle. Compression seems fine but I would like to know what it should be as well as the correct fuel/oil ratio. I contacted Poulan and ordered the owners manual this past Tuesday. This saw is probabaly a early 90's but has low hours on it. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated

 

[Gumneck]

Hello

16 to 1 (1 gal gas & 1/2 pint oil)

Idle: maybe you need to turn idle screw clockwise approx 1/2 of turn to see if that affects the idle, just in case its set too low. Then run engine few minutes to warm up. You may have to continue feathering the trigger.

The ideal idle speed will run the saw without turning the chain. Also the saw should accelerate w/out hesitation.

You may have to adjust low speed mixture setting after the idle speed has changed.

This is a start. The pros will advise better than I.

Good luck.

 

[joed1694]

Yes it should idle with out the chain turning. I had the same problem with a saw and found out it was an air leak in the crank seals. Because on a gasoline engine when you give it more air (throttle) it will increase RPM

 

[Cut4fun]

I think ratio should be 32 to 1 or factory of 40 to 1. Heres some info from mikes site. If this is the saw you have. I also will post you some more info on ipl for and parts beakdown. http://64.180.101.188/cscc.nsf/ed1d...84413e4276c63e9988256bfc0011bff0?OpenDocument

 

[Cut4fun]

Parts breakdown. http://www.odref.com/poulan/pdf/poulan/gas-saws/2300av.pdf

 

[Fish]

With that model, I have seen a few that had the cylinder bolts/screws start to work loose. The saw would run, but would not idle, and get progressively
worse. Hold the saw firmly, then grap the plug and try to wiggle and see if you feel movement within the saw. Unfortunately, the gasket is usually torn
and replacing it is a pain in the donkey..

 

[Gumneck]

As far as the ratio of gas to oil mix to use, I would be cautious about MIke's site only b/c I have 3 saws he lists at 40:1 where the label on my saws say 1/2 pint oil (8oz.) to 1 gal gas. 128 oz. divided by 8 oz. equals 16 to I.

Since I dont have that 2300 AV I can't say for sure but thought I would give my thoughts.

 

[Cut4fun]

My 2000 is 40 to 1. Thats what I was going by.

 

[skwerl]

As far as the ratio of gas to oil mix to use, I would be cautious about MIke's site only b/c I have 3 saws he lists at 40:1 where the label on my saws say 1/2 pint oil (8oz.) to 1 gal gas. 128 oz. divided by 8 oz. equals 16 to I.

What decade were those labels on the saws made? Back in the 70's the oil available was crap compared to today. If you're burning 70's spec 30wt, then go ahead and mix it 16-1 and watch your saws burn up after a few years. If you're running a 21st century semi-synthetic mix oil such as Echo, Husky or Stihl (black bottle, not orange) labeled mix oil, 40-1 is many times greater lubrication and protection than what was available when your saw was made.

 

[Gumneck]

I wouldn't know where to buy 1970 's 30 wt. Usually use husq or echo blend. Still mix it at whatever the saw label suggest. No problems yet.

 

[ol'homey]

My father in law told me to take his 2300av or he was throwing it in the trash. He probably used it for a couple of hours and then let it sit for a couple of years. The next time he tried to use it he pulled on it until he turned blue and couldn't even get a pop out of it. I took it home and replaced the crumbled fuel line and it's been a "decent" saw ever since. The lightweight top handle design makes pruning small limbs a breeze. One of the things I don't like is on a fully choked cold start it takes maybe 5-10 pulls for the carb. to pull fuel from the tank and pop. Then you have to go to half choke and pull a couple more times to get it to run. I sometimes wonder if I have a weak fuel pump?Once it starts it runs great. The other thing I don't like is the bar oil tank is pressurized and will continue to dribble oil out after the saw is shut off. The only way I have found to stop this is to turn the saw on its side and crack open the bar oil cap to relieve the pressure. I took the baffle out of the muffler which seems to give it a little more power. Overall it's not a bad little homeowner saw. BTW the manual calls for 40:1.

 

[Marco]

One of Poulans more fussy designs and I try to stand up for the brand. I have a 180 pro model, which is about what the 2300av is without anti-vibe. It would not idle the best, I did everything to that saw. New crank bearings and seals, resealed the crankcase halves, new fuel line, rebuilt the carb and expireamented with differant metering lever heights in the carb and it still would not idle. I would like to know what else, besides a weak cylinder, that it could be.

 

[scottr]

Reed Valve

Mark , did you check the reed valve ?

 

[Marco]

Changed the reed valve, the thing is cursed. The smallest two man saw I've seen; one guy to keep it running, the other to throw the brush out of the way. Neighbor has one that runs pretty decent now, it had a wood chip in the reed valve that I removed. I have wrote mine off as a lemon and now I am moving on to something else in the heap of goodies.

 

[Gumneck]

I'm just guessing and throwing this out there, maybe it has a real weak or intermittent spark due to the ignition module having some problem

 

[Gumneck]

Marco, just reread your post. How about a new ring? Didn't see where you mentioned that you replaced that part.

 

[scottr]

180 Pro

Mark , does it have the aluminum cylinder that's chrome plated ?

 

[Marco]

It had good compression so I did not replace the ring. It has been several years since I toyed with it, so I can't recall if the bore was chromed. I like to think I looked it over pretty good. It had good power for cutting and didn't foul plugs, so I like to think it had good spark. The little beast was something that should have ran but didn't. I think it's biggest problem was the long run of fuel line from the carb to the tank, and everthing had to be just perfect or it didn't want to work.

 

[scottr]

Mark , just looked at acresinternet , it 's a chrome plated aluminum bore and also shows a chainbrake . What would you take for that unloved saw ?