Poulan 2300cva troubles

[rocking k]

First, let me say Hi! This is my first posting anywhere so let me know when I screw up. I have a Poulan 2300cva that won't start. While I was running the last of the fuel out doing some light limbing, it sounded like it was over- revving a little and would not idle. I kept revving and cutting for a few minutes until the tank was dry. I mixed some fresh few and tried to start it, but all I got was a couple of burps.

Here's a list of what I've done since then:

Cleaned air filter
Had good spark but put in new plug anyway
Replaced fuel filter and fuel line
Cleaned exhaust port (not really bad)
Checked fuel cap for venting
Checked compression (95#)
Rebuilt carb (WT-20) and replaced carb and intake gaskets
Turned reed valve over (it looked fine)

I pulled the starter cord until my arm gave out. Nothing. Pulled the plug. Dry.
Then I squirted some fuel in the carb and got a burp or two.

Help me please! This is my only saw and I already have a door stop and boat anchor.

 

[Cut4fun]

Have you looked inside at the piston and cylinder condition. Seems like compression is on the low side. Take off muffler, look through exhaust port, look for scoring. Take out sparkplug look through hole at cylinder sides with a light.

 

[rocking k]

Yes, I did check for scoring through both the exhaust port and plug hole. When I looked the the plug hole, I did see a mark on the cylinder wall, but I don't think it's scored. There was a line about 3/16" wide that looked more like a slight burnishing. I ran the tip of a ball point pen across it and did not feel anything.

 

[scottr]

If you try to hold the saw up by the starter rope does it drop , slowly unwind , or hold up ? The revving and not idling sounds like a air leak . Have you run this saw before without issues ?

 

[ol'homey]

My 2300 cva shows 135 psi

 

[rocking k]

I'm almost positive it will hang from the stater rope since it takes a pretty good pull to start. I'll check it tomorrow to make sure.

The time before last when I used it I do remember it started idling really fast. I don't remember if it stopped doing that on its' own or
if I turned down the idle. I think I turned down the idle. My memory is not what it used to be.


Obviously 135psi is much higher than my 95, but shouldn't it at least start and maybe run poorly?

 

[TimberPig]

It definitely sounds like an air leak, and that you have caused some level of piston/cylinder damage. 95 pounds of compression is low enough that starting will be difficult if not impossible. Just because it pulls over hard does not mean it has good compression. It could be due to increased friction caused by engine damage. This may feel like good compression, and show as being fine by the drop test, but the saw won't run. I'd be rechecking the piston, rings and cylinder. You're going to need to find and fix the original cause of the problems (air leak), as well as fix the collateral damage it caused.

 

[troutfisher]

With the muffler off, look into the exhaust port. rotate the engine until you can see the piston ring. Is the ring/groove damaged? smeared with aluminum? Post a pic if you can.

 

[sawtooth]

I dunno if it's cooked or not but...

I pulled the starter cord until my arm gave out. Nothing. Pulled the plug. Dry.
Then I squirted some fuel in the carb and got a burp or two.

Maybe your main problem is a lack of fuel... if you can't even make the plug wet with your most manly attempt at starting it, it's not pumping fuel...and by priming it you are just barely getting it to act like it wants to run...sounds like maybe a fuel delivery problem. Could be more complicated things but I would do the simple stuff first...make sure you have your metering lever set properly in the carb, etc...if any saw isn't getting fuel it isn't gonna start...
no guarantees! but good luck anyway to you!

 

[ol'homey]

Could the lack of fuel be caused by low crankcase vacuum which is required to operate the fuel pump and pull fuel to the carb? Could the low crankcase vacuum be caused by an air leak and/or poor piston/cylinder sealing?

 

[scottr]

Compression

http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=14771&postcount=10

 

[starsailor]

Just fixed one...

Just fixed my brother's 2300CVA that had similar problems. The exact symptoms were the saw would start up but run real fast, near WOT, for 3-5 sec. then quit. This was with no throdle input at all, i.e. it should have just idled. Also the exhaust area and muffler looked awfully oily with lots of black gunk.

The problem turned out to be that the seal between the two crankcase halves had failed and the saw was sucking in air along with bar oil from the oil tank.

The fix was to tear it down, clean all the gunk out of the crankcase, cyl., and muffler, then put it back together with a good sealer made for gasoline exposure. I used MotoSeal, but there are others. See here: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=43600

BTW, saw had 125-130 PSI before cleaning and about 120 PSI afterward. I suspect the PSI drop was because I cleaned a bunch of oily carbon off the cyl. dome area, piston top, and around the inside of the plug hole.

Runs great now!

 

[Gumneck]

I sort of read thru the thread quickly and being interupted by kids(hopefully didn't overlook if someone already mentioned it) but maybe check the cylinder to be sure the bolts are not backed of a hair and causing an airleak problem there. Simple wiggle test.

 

[rocking k]

Here's an update on my 2300cva problems:

scottr, I was wrong. In the drop test, it did unwind slowly.

troutfisher, looking into the exhaust port, I saw no ring/groove damage or aluminum smearing. Can't get pics.

sawtooth, I don't have a tool to set the metering lever, but I did replace the lever, spring, pin, and needle when I did the carb. No change in symptoms.

ol'homey, makes sense to me. I'll keep it in mind.

scottr, thanks, it's good to have a benchmark.

starsailor & gumneck, looks like I'm headed in the right direction. Just before my fingers froze, I noticed the crankcase bolt near the muffler was loose at least 1/4 turn. I'll try tightening all the bolts first. Maybe I won't have to re-seal it. No experience there. Any thoughts?

 

[Gumneck]

I was referring to the cylinder mount bolts just to be clear. Anywho, If those nuts or bolts that hold the jug down are loose ...than I'd snug them down and give it a go. If that doesn't do it than probably need a little more teardown.

 

[wgr]

try a tsp full of oil down the cylinder ,if the saw attempts to start,you know you have compression problems.

 

[rocking k]

gumneck, yeah, I knew what you meant. I don't know why I said crankcase.

wgr, thanks for the tip, but when I tightened the cylinder mount bolts, it started right up.

At first it wouldn't accelerate. I made some quick idle and low speed adjustments and it seemed to run fairly well. In a couple of days I'll have more time to work on it. I'll let you all know how it comes out. Hopefully, I won't have to reseal it.

 

[deercatcher]

If the cylinder came slack enough, it will suck away chunks of the gasket. If it won't adjust out, pull jug and replace the gasket.

 

[rocking k]

Well I finally was able to get back to my saw this week. After tightening the cylinder bolts, the compression came up to 110#. Considering the comments I got from some of you folks, it still sounds sort of low.

The saw starts and cuts ok, but dies when idling. If I hold the trigger until I pull the saw out of the cut, it idles for 5 to 10 seconds and then dies. If I release the trigger at the same time I pull the saw from the cut, it dies right away. Does this sound like it's related to low compression? Will I do any damage if I continue to use it like this? Do you recommen a teardown?

 

[rocking k]

I just wanted to let you all know I finally have a runner. Apparently the cylinder gasket was leaking. After cleaning up the cylinder, piston and exhaust port it has 120# of compression and runs good. Thanks to all for your help.