Poulan 2775 Carb Adjustment

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lanesharon

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Aug 28, 2012
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southern AZ
My husband passed away in 1995. He used a Poulan 2775 Chain Saw once, and twice it was used by a friend who I am not sure knew what he was doing. Cut down & up a total of 3 trees and then sat for a very long time. I have a small Homelite Super2, plenty for what I want to do (not a tree dropper person).

Decided to revive it. The chain had been bunged, tank fuel line was disintegrated, carb gummed. So, I ordered parts - fuel line, filter, air filter, 2 new chains, and an extra blade nut (I have been known to lose things). Then, I cleaned and fixed.

The fuel line that I got had a much thicker wall, which is probably good over the long haul, but caused me to hand file the hole in the plastic. In any event, got it all back together and don't have the strength to pull it. I took it over to a friend of mine and he pulled it with one crank. He said the saw had obviously not been used much. He explained that when the compression is high, the chainsaw are a little harder to pull. After they are broken in, it gets easier (learned something).

When the saw was idling and on the ground it was jumping around a little and running fast. I hate to mess with the carburetor adjustments when I do not know what I am doing. The saw looks and runs like new, has original case, tools, etc.

Now the questions - If you were looking to buy this chainsaw, would it concern you if it ran fast like that? Should I take the risk on adjusting it instead? Was my friend right about it being hard to pull because of tight compression? If it were easier to pull, I might keep it for cutting things up.
 
First, welcome to AS, and I give you major credit for taking on that project. As for the high idle, when the choke is applied, it does two things: First, it closes the choke plate in the carb, and second it props open the throttle a little. So even if you push in the choke the idle stays propped open until you pull on the throttle. It's possible it was still on high idle.

If not, having the idle too high is a problem, as it is dangerous to have the chain spinning. You could certainly learn to adjust the carb if you are interested.

In regard to the hard to pull, starting rope, my 2775 is a little cranky to pull, but of course I can't really feel what yours is like to compare. Unless there is something binding I doubt that the starting effort will change much. On the other hand, pulling these things is sometimes less a matter of strength than it is of technique, but it will not be suitable for everyone.
 
I put my foot in the rear handle, held the front handle down, and pulled on the rope. I could pull it past the 'tough parts', but way too slowly. My friend was able to hold everything down, pull the rope, and hold the trigger. How the heck he did that is beyond me. He revved it quite a bit and it was fine, except that it when he took his finger off the trigger and put it down on the driveway, it jumped around and the idle was definitely too high. I tell you all of this because it certainly seems to be running aok. BTW, I had the bar and the chain off because I was just trying to get it to run.

I would like to learn how to adjust it. The adjustments on the side are marked H and L. My concern is that it will be hard for me to check out the adjustments if I can't even get it started. :msp_unsure:
 
I have a small homelite S-2, with a 14" bar on it. I can start that. But, I wanted a bigger blade, just in case. Will look at the easy starts. Thanks for replying.
 
Just an update: Sold the Poulan to a young man who has delighted to get it at such a cheap price. $125 for saw, case, 2 new chains, new maintenance parts, etc.. was a good price.

I also went to my local Lowes and Home Despot and asked about 'easy start' saws. Nada at either place. This is not exactly chainsaw territory. I asked if they knew of any power tool businesses that might have them - also Nada. I might have to wait until I visit Texas again. :msp_sad:
 

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