lanesharon
ArboristSite Lurker
My husband passed away in 1995. He used a Poulan 2775 Chain Saw once, and twice it was used by a friend who I am not sure knew what he was doing. Cut down & up a total of 3 trees and then sat for a very long time. I have a small Homelite Super2, plenty for what I want to do (not a tree dropper person).
Decided to revive it. The chain had been bunged, tank fuel line was disintegrated, carb gummed. So, I ordered parts - fuel line, filter, air filter, 2 new chains, and an extra blade nut (I have been known to lose things). Then, I cleaned and fixed.
The fuel line that I got had a much thicker wall, which is probably good over the long haul, but caused me to hand file the hole in the plastic. In any event, got it all back together and don't have the strength to pull it. I took it over to a friend of mine and he pulled it with one crank. He said the saw had obviously not been used much. He explained that when the compression is high, the chainsaw are a little harder to pull. After they are broken in, it gets easier (learned something).
When the saw was idling and on the ground it was jumping around a little and running fast. I hate to mess with the carburetor adjustments when I do not know what I am doing. The saw looks and runs like new, has original case, tools, etc.
Now the questions - If you were looking to buy this chainsaw, would it concern you if it ran fast like that? Should I take the risk on adjusting it instead? Was my friend right about it being hard to pull because of tight compression? If it were easier to pull, I might keep it for cutting things up.
Decided to revive it. The chain had been bunged, tank fuel line was disintegrated, carb gummed. So, I ordered parts - fuel line, filter, air filter, 2 new chains, and an extra blade nut (I have been known to lose things). Then, I cleaned and fixed.
The fuel line that I got had a much thicker wall, which is probably good over the long haul, but caused me to hand file the hole in the plastic. In any event, got it all back together and don't have the strength to pull it. I took it over to a friend of mine and he pulled it with one crank. He said the saw had obviously not been used much. He explained that when the compression is high, the chainsaw are a little harder to pull. After they are broken in, it gets easier (learned something).
When the saw was idling and on the ground it was jumping around a little and running fast. I hate to mess with the carburetor adjustments when I do not know what I am doing. The saw looks and runs like new, has original case, tools, etc.
Now the questions - If you were looking to buy this chainsaw, would it concern you if it ran fast like that? Should I take the risk on adjusting it instead? Was my friend right about it being hard to pull because of tight compression? If it were easier to pull, I might keep it for cutting things up.