Poulan 3400 counter vibe

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So this 3400 has been sitting in my garage apart all summer it would run okay and then stall so i decided to pull the top end and it had a cracked ring only problem i have now is one of the pins that keep the ring from spinning is missing is there a way to fix or just replace the piston .

I've never seen one break but I would guess you'll need a new piston. Is it the top or bottom ring? If its the bottom ring, I'd try just running it with the top ring only. Don't have anything to lose, right?
Bob
 
So this 3400 has been sitting in my garage apart all summer it would run okay and then stall so i decided to pull the top end and it had a cracked ring only problem i have now is one of the pins that keep the ring from spinning is missing is there a way to fix or just replace the piston .

Your easiest option is a new piston and rings, but you need a pin press. Weedeaterman.com has the presses but I'm not real sure of a source for a piston
 
I just drug a 3400 home from our cabin in the hopes of getting it running again, been at least 7 years since it was run. I found deteriorated fuel lines, super nasty over mixed fuel, and a general lack of give a crap by my other family members. The piston looked decent through the exhaust port, so I picked up a fuel line kit, carb rebuild kit, air filter and will grab a plug this week. I dont "think" there is any reason for it not to run, but I will find out by this weekend. The biggest challenge will be getting this thing clean. Kinda looks like a bomb went off on my work bench LOL
 
I just drug a 3400 home from our cabin in the hopes of getting it running again, been at least 7 years since it was run. I found deteriorated fuel lines, super nasty over mixed fuel, and a general lack of give a crap by my other family members. The piston looked decent through the exhaust port, so I picked up a fuel line kit, carb rebuild kit, air filter and will grab a plug this week. I dont "think" there is any reason for it not to run, but I will find out by this weekend. The biggest challenge will be getting this thing clean. Kinda looks like a bomb went off on my work bench LOL

I think you are right. When working on some of these old saws getting them clean again is the biggest challenge and the biggest part of the job. Do not forget to check the spark screen inside the muffler.

Sounds like you have a plan and you will having running in no time.
 
I wouldn't though that's my gut feeling. I may have a used piston but will have to check. New ones are about impossible to find.

Let me know if you have one and what you want for it. I already have to much in this saw to give up but don't want to add to much more money
 
I think you are right. When working on some of these old saws getting them clean again is the biggest challenge and the biggest part of the job. Do not forget to check the spark screen inside the muffler.

Sounds like you have a plan and you will having running in no time.

Adding to your steps, if you have a difficult time getting it to idle or in adjusting the carb, you may have an air leak. Most of the time it's the clutch side seal but have also seen leaking carb adapters i.e.i intake manifold. Start at 1 turn open for both the Lo and Hi speed needles.
 
I think you are right. When working on some of these old saws getting them clean again is the biggest challenge and the biggest part of the job. Do not forget to check the spark screen inside the muffler.

Sounds like you have a plan and you will having running in no time.

Already tore the muffler down and bead blasted it, the screen on the spark arrestor was fairly clean, now just gotta decide if I want to mod the muffler.
 
Already tore the muffler down and bead blasted it, the screen on the spark arrestor was fairly clean, now just gotta decide if I want to mod the muffler.

Yes mod the muffler.

313107d1378339683-craftsman-muffmod-2-jpg

View attachment 313107
 
I think I will have to get creative with the welder and scrap pile and see what I can come up with.

I want to get this thing really clean which will require pulling it way apart. Are there any special tricks to pulling the flywheel? how bout the gap between the flywheel and coil? I am thinking about breaking it all the way down so I can blast it and give it a fresh coat of paint. This saw has lived a rough life near the salt water and it shows.

BTW, how in the heck do you get to the carb bolts?
 
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Mm

BTW, how in the heck do you get to the carb bolts?

No bolts on that series, just two machine screws that the heads are hidden down in the black foam rubber seal at both sides of the carb inlet.

Instead of welding, you can cut a hole & easily silver solder a copper 7/8" street ell into the side at the top, pointing out frontwards. Don't forget to clip out a radius in the back deflector to clear it, and also to first trim the ell off close tt the inside bend with a hacksaw first. I'm not a real big fan of the side angled outlets like the one shown, as it blows upt too much dirt & leaves when you flush cut a tree stump off close to the ground. On the flip side, this mod blows the exhaust right into the log that you're bucking. Maybe a compromise is to point the ell upwards at 30-45 degrees...but still clearing the plastic top cover.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone picture I just took, but you get the idea.
 
I think I will have to get creative with the welder and scrap pile and see what I can come up with.

I want to get this thing really clean which will require pulling it way apart. Are there any special tricks to pulling the flywheel? how bout the gap between the flywheel and coil? I am thinking about breaking it all the way down so I can blast it and give it a fresh coat of paint. This saw has lived a rough life near the salt water and it shows.

BTW, how in the heck do you get to the carb bolts?

Remove the top cover to get to the carb. Take out the upper right two handlebar mounting screws. That'll let you pivot the handlebar so you can remove and reinstall the top cover.
 
Remove the top cover to get to the carb. Take out the upper right two handlebar mounting screws. That'll let you pivot the handlebar so you can remove and reinstall the top cover.

Yup. No other way to do it. My first 3400 I bought new in the early 80's I tried and tried to remove the top cover until I realized I he'd to swing the top handle forward to do so.
 
I am happy to see this thread on here. The 3400 is an awesome saw. My father bought his new in 1980. He said that he wanted a husky but they were $100 more, so he bought the counter vibe. Just last week I used it and cut about one cord of oak with it. Afterwards, we talked about what a great saw it's been for him. That thing has cut A LOT of wood!
 
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