Poulan/Craftsman chainsaw strange idle problem

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Gaspowered

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Location
Cordelia, California, USA
Hey there, I have an old Poulan/Craftsman model no. 358.352070 chainsaw that has a strange problem. This saw is identical to those little "Micro XXV" top-handle saws but it's painted red. I am working on it for a guy, all it needed was a carb clean and new fuel line, and it runs great, but for some reason, whenever it has the air filter cover installed, it does not idle at all. I adjusted the idle speed and it's touchy, and I could get it to idle but it's too fast since it spins the chain. I also tried leaning the low speed but makes it hesitant. I did cut out and oil a new air filter for it since the old one turned into slime. I also blew out the housing and got it free of debris and grease. I have never encountered this issue before. Any suggestions?
 
I had this same problem not long ago with a Poulan XXV SD type.

Was running and idling great after replacing the fuel line. Installed the air filter cover after tuning the carb and no go,??????:oops::eek::(
No idle, remove cover ok. Remove the air filter and re-install cover and little better but not correct.
Long story short the new tygon fuel line was just a little bit too long in the air box (making couple of 90 degree turns and the filter cover would slightly push on the fuel line and restrict the fuel flow by slightly pushing on the soft tygon fuel line. I was trying to leave little bit of spare fuel line in the air box for future if needed to trim at the carb nipple but could not do so on this one.

Take a close gander at yours.
 
I had this same problem not long ago with a Poulan XXV SD type.

Was running and idling great after replacing the fuel line. Installed the air filter cover after tuning the carb and no go,??????:oops::eek::(
No idle, remove cover ok. Remove the air filter and re-install cover and little better but not correct.
Long story short the new tygon fuel line was just a little bit too long in the air box (making couple of 90 degree turns and the filter cover would slightly push on the fuel line and restrict the fuel flow by slightly pushing on the soft tygon fuel line. I was trying to leave little bit of spare fuel line in the air box for future if needed to trim at the carb nipple but could not do so on this one.

Take a close gander at yours.
I will take a look at the fuel line but I use the firmer style of 3/32" x 3/16" line. Could be the issue. It was a major pain installing it since it had to go from the tank through the back handle, all the way to the carb. It could have gotten a bend or pinch in it.
 
I will take a look at the fuel line but I use the firmer style of 3/32" x 3/16" line. Could be the issue. It was a major pain installing it since it had to go from the tank through the back handle, all the way to the carb. It could have gotten a bend or pinch in it.

Yep and some go by the flywheel route. both types are a PITA to install.:chainsaw:
 
Yep and some go by the flywheel route. both types are a PITA to install.:chainsaw:
Never knew they went by the FW... Poulan can be weird. The saving grace on my version is that you can split the handle, but with a saw this small, you're probably going to end up with the throttle spring rocketing to the moon!
 
I havent fired it up in a while but from what I can remember I think it did spray out fuel when you revved it. I had it running a lil lean though to compensate for the rich environment, the cover was basically choking it out.
It could be that your reed valve is leaking, or your exhaust port is choked down with carbon build up. If it has a spark screen, which I doubt; check it for being clogged up.
 
It could be that your reed valve is leaking, or your exhaust port is choked down with carbon build up. If it has a spark screen, which I doubt; check it for being clogged up.
I just ran the saw a hour ago and it idled okay with the cover on, and I have not checked the reed valve but I did replace the carb gasket. I have not checked the muffler, but that sounds like a good place to check. It's probably from the late 80's so it might have a screen.
 
Does the saw look like the green one or red one?
4b1fdd3da6ac4cdf95a5b99cc66aaa21.jpg
5c3b44dfa1a6b5266bb6f02275381b16.jpg


Steve Sidwell
 
Here is a IPL link: Just to get an idea of the layout of fuel line and to check the spark arrestor, etc. Pg 15 for the spark arrestor. Note by reading the last paragraph in the box that the heat shield mentioned was added in ADDITION to the heat shield as optional and required for Calif.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/480026/Sears-Craftsman-358-352030.html#manual
I usually just give a spark arrestor a toss because I do not allow any of my saws to go to Calif.;)
I've seen them spark arrestors clog and ruin a good saw by overheating the engine. Operators would keep trying to use the saw after the saw cooled off for a re-run sometimes even replacing and adjusting carbs trying to correct a engine that would run erratically after the engine got warmed up and bogging and losing power in the cut.

Sometimes a Model number IPL does not exactly match the saw parts layout such as fuel lines, etc, especially for Poulan/Craftsman. (appears maybe sometimes they were making them saws one at a time using scrape parts on the assembly line):surprised3:;)
I was looking at a IPL of a Poulan S25 not long ago to replace the fuel line/lines and the IPL showed it went through the handle and when I looked at the saw the OEM fuel lines was routed by the flywheel and the IPL for that type showed a 3 piece fuel line and the one I was working on had a one piece OEM line:surprised3:.

Have to take some IPL's of them type little saws with a grain of salt.
 
I’ve got a few of these. My kids built one of them Most valid comment I’ve seen so far is the pinched fuel line thing. Other than that for hard up errors I don’t know.

I’ll say this: I could also get mine to run without the cover easily. Put the cover on and I think the available air changes. Less available. I think. Put a half a turn in on my low side and a quarter on the high now she fires after three pulls with the choke on and wide open throttle(instructions on the handle said so). I actually couldn’t get it to start at all until my bro in law picked it up and said you read the instructions dummy??

Anyway

Different tune with the cover on for sure.

I run one piece of line from carb back to tank. I know just where to push and prod to get it through. I noticed the Dayton I have which I think is almost the same does not have a guide hole that the green poulans do to keep it away from the flywheel.

This is the one my kids built with me. They did everything except gap the ring, and tune it. Assembly was all them, we had to make three goes at it.
E108C731-247C-4CDB-9C33-438F5C2C8259.jpeg
 
Is there a fog spraying out of the carb on accelleration?
So I’m actualy new ish to the chainsaw hobby and two strokes but not to working on “stuff”. Would my guess that this typically means a defective or not working properly reed valve allowing blowback(maybe not the correct term)??

Inquiring for my own knowledge.

Thanks for any replies
Bruce
 
I ran mine yesterday and it did idle okay, and everytime I shut it off you'd have to gas it to start it. I didn't adjust the carb. I could also check for the acceleration fog too. I don't think I have a reed valve for this saw but there are plenty of parts on eBay. And AMMIX, that's a clean little Poulan! To be honest I would take an old McCulloch over any other brand of saw but these little top handle Poulans and Sears saws are pretty handy and light.
 

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