Poulan/Poulan Pro 3314, 3516, 3818, 3816, 4018, 4218, etc question

[Chris-PA]

The PP5020, is basically a larger (50cc) version of the 4218. It's a clamshell strato saw, and the chassis is plastic.

Yes, I know, but that is fine with me. From what I have seen that construction and materials seem to work well. I like metal, and I have the Mac, and maybe someday I'll get a Poulan 4000. But in fact aluminum and magnesium can corrode and crack, so it's not clear which is the better in the long run. My point was only that these are real tools, not toys - you can do a lot with them and use them for a long time.

 

[dave76]

Yes, I know, but that is fine with me. From what I have seen that construction and materials seem to work well. I like metal, and I have the Mac, and maybe someday I'll get a Poulan 4000. But in fact aluminum and magnesium can corrode and crack, so it's not clear which is the better in the long run. My point was only that these are real tools, not toys - you can do a lot with them and use them for a long time.

Oh dont get me wrong, I got a 2175, and 2375LE, I think there are great saws. In fact my 2375 is ported, with a Poulan 2900 carb, an 18" .325 bar and 20LPX chain, and that saw rips. That 2175 is 42cc also. I also like the early 36cc versions of these saws too, a muffler mod and porting wake these things up seriously.

Even though I do like them, the newer versions are just too Fisher price like. I worked on trashed 4018 WildThing that the owner never put bar oil in and because of the dumb inboard clutch the friggin sprocket was sooo hot it melted the chassis so bad the saw was basically junk.

 

[vtwood]

Hello all, first post here.

I have a couple of older Poulans I used up until about 4 years ago -- one is dead and the other not in great shape -- I believe they are 42cc saws, and am thinking about getting a 4218. Factory Refurbed they are available for 100 bucks including shipping.

I've read that people have a lot of problems with the new tool-less bar tightening. I was wondering if I could switch the older cover onto a new 4218 to get rid of the new bar tightener?

I just had a Stihl MS250 die after 3 years of problems, was considering a Husky 450, but I don't know, seems like I actually got more bang for the buck from those cheap saws. I was able to interchange parts after the first one died to keep the second going after a tree fell on it.

I know I cut more wood with them than the Stihl and spent enough on parts for the expensive saw to buy a second. Never bought parts for the Poulans, and they were a third the price.

I still have the one running Poulan which I used for cutting off stumps, debarking for my homemade Band sawmill, and other rough work that I wanted to spare the Stihl from.

I used to think poorly of them, but there's a certain fondness growing about them considering what they've been through.

I do also own a Husky 288XP for anything big -- and that has been trouble free.

 

[vtwood]

I was wrong on that. Not 42cc at all.

Got out the Poulan and it's a 2001 46cc Farmhand. Type YPWES.0464CY

I see 46cc PP4620AVX are available new and also factory refurbed (for $130.)

Anybody know if this new tool-less model will accept the old screw type cover from my older saws -- and if I will get some other part interchangeability? Or are these very different new saws?

Thanks!

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

I was wrong on that. Not 42cc at all.

Got out the Poulan and it's a 2001 46cc Farmhand. Type YPWES.0464CY

I see 46cc PP4620AVX are available new and also factory refurbed (for $130.)

Anybody know if this new tool-less model will accept the old screw type cover from my older saws -- and if I will get some other part interchangeability? Or are these very different new saws?

Thanks!

If it has the intenz bar with bar nuts holding the cover on then you can get a $3-4 kit to add the adjuster to it. I did on my PP295 and put a 15"b&c which is essentially the same saw. If it has the big round adjuster, I don't know if it can be converted.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

I was wrong on that. Not 42cc at all.

Got out the Poulan and it's a 2001 46cc Farmhand. Type YPWES.0464CY

I see 46cc PP4620AVX are available new and also factory refurbed (for $130.)

Anybody know if this new tool-less model will accept the old screw type cover from my older saws -- and if I will get some other part interchangeability? Or are these very different new saws?

Thanks!

Yes , the "classic" clutch cover/chainbreak from a 2200,2500,2600,2750,2775,2900,3050,PP295,PP310 or PP315 will fit. Therer have been a few industrious people that removed the large adjusting wheel and did a little work on the original cover and had a cover with 2 bar nuts. Not sure how they incorporated an adjuster but an intenz bar would be a thought if you didn't mind the small consumer style tip/bearing.

 

[Chris-PA]

Yes , the "classic" clutch cover/chainbreak from a 2200,2500,2600,2750,2775,2900,3050,PP295,PP310 or PP315 will fit. Therer have been a few industrious people that removed the large adjusting wheel and did a little work on the original cover and had a cover with 2 bar nuts. Not sure how they incorporated an adjuster but an intenz bar would be a thought if you didn't mind the small consumer style tip/bearing.

I had to replace the brake on my 2775 - it cost maybe $15 from ordertree.com, but it did not come with the adjuster bolt. You'd have to buy that separately. Of course the one I got was green.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

I had to replace the brake on my 2775 - it cost maybe $15 from ordertree.com, but it did not come with the adjuster bolt. You'd have to buy that separately. Of course the one I got was green.

Green, i hadn't thought of that. Sorta like green doors or hood on a red GT-40. My green 2550 sports purple covers with a black hood. :dunno: It still cuts good.

 

[vtwood]

Well, after thinking about it a lot I decided to try the 5020. Maybe a bad Idea maybe not, but I guess curiosity got the better of me. Brought it home fired it up, I had a 16" maple down amongst a bunch of other stuff, including a 90' white pine to cut up.

First impressions: The one I bought had a regular screw adjuster and the usual two studs. Came with a big boxy case (never had one before). It has a primer bulb -- all good. Stop lever and choke lever look flimsy and exposed -- look easy to break off. But Stop lever is easy and close to thumb to use.Opposite of my Husky 288XP which has a nearly hidden slide switch that goes sideways and doesn't really want to slide.

Chain was tight to start with, but i knew it would loosen so didn't back it off. Engine started well, bark sounded a little deeper than the MS250. Didn't hold idle at first, but it's new. Seemed to hold after about 15 minutes of use. I was planning on changing the 20" bar for a 16" down the road, and chisel chain, but I was kind of surprised by the cutting ability. It did as well if not better than the MS250 when new -- and that did have a 16" bar.

You do have to keep the revs up, I noticed, low end was not impressive, but maybe that will get better with a little more use. Also maybe I was reacting to having just used the 288XP.

Definitely some kickback feel to it, also a surprise with that chain, as looks like it's an anti-kickback type. Cut was aggressive enough, so maybe I won't be changing the bar and chain out as soon as I thought.

All in all cautiously optimistic. This saw design does yell out "plastic" more than even my Farmhands. But I knew it was going in.

 

[Hedgerow]

Modify the mufler, and re-tune carb as needed... The throttle response and torque should improve... Also, it's new, so check back in after about 10 or 15 tanks...

 

[vtwood]

Thanks for the info on the adjuster replacement guys. I'm still thinking of getting one of those $130 46cc refurbs as a backup, since I have 2 parts saws for that type.

Hedgerow I've read here on this forum a lot of mentions of muffler mods -- not sure exactly what that is -- is there somewhere I can read more about that?

Thanks!

 

[Chris-PA]

Well, after thinking about it a lot I decided to try the 5020. Maybe a bad Idea maybe not, but I guess curiosity got the better of me. Brought it home fired it up, I had a 16" maple down amongst a bunch of other stuff, including a 90' white pine to cut up.

First impressions: The one I bought had a regular screw adjuster and the usual two studs. Came with a big boxy case (never had one before). It has a primer bulb -- all good. Stop lever and choke lever look flimsy and exposed -- look easy to break off. But Stop lever is easy and close to thumb to use.Opposite of my Husky 288XP which has a nearly hidden slide switch that goes sideways and doesn't really want to slide.

Chain was tight to start with, but i knew it would loosen so didn't back it off. Engine started well, bark sounded a little deeper than the MS250. Didn't hold idle at first, but it's new. Seemed to hold after about 15 minutes of use. I was planning on changing the 20" bar for a 16" down the road, and chisel chain, but I was kind of surprised by the cutting ability. It did as well if not better than the MS250 when new -- and that did have a 16" bar.

You do have to keep the revs up, I noticed, low end was not impressive, but maybe that will get better with a little more use. Also maybe I was reacting to having just used the 288XP.

Definitely some kickback feel to it, also a surprise with that chain, as looks like it's an anti-kickback type. Cut was aggressive enough, so maybe I won't be changing the bar and chain out as soon as I thought.

All in all cautiously optimistic. This saw design does yell out "plastic" more than even my Farmhands. But I knew it was going in.

Cool! That's the first actual experience anyone's shared about that saw - I'd be interested in hearing updates as you get more time on it. Is that 72V chain on it?

 

[Chris-PA]

Thanks for the info on the adjuster replacement guys. I'm still thinking of getting one of those $130 46cc refurbs as a backup, since I have 2 parts saws for that type.

Hedgerow I've read here on this forum a lot of mentions of muffler mods -- not sure exactly what that is -- is there somewhere I can read more about that?

Thanks!

Muffler mod is just opening up the exhaust. I did it on my 46cc 2775 and it really woke it up a lot. That saw is a Type1 which has a muffler with a very big outlet to begin with, but the baffle inside needed to be drilled out. Retuned and it made a huge difference.

 

[tbone75]

Keep us posted on the new saw!I am one of the little Poulan lovers LOL

 

[vtwood]

Thanks WoodHeatWarrior, your comment a ways back started me thinking about the 5020. I will report how it goes with that saw.

Edit: Oh sorry, didn't get the chain type today, will check and report tomorrow.

re. mods: I've found a few references to modding the muffler, but nothing very specific, or even a picture. I understand what it is -- opening baffle holes or even removing baffles, adding a larger exhaust outlet or adding a pipe, but how much to do is the question.

I have a die grinder. I do understand I need to re-tune the carb richer, and why. I have no problem gas welding thin sheet metal for an outlet pipe if needed-- I've welded pulse jet engines out of stove pipe.

I did send for a 46cc refurb as well tonight, and will mod only that muffler, not the 5020, until probably after the warranty is up. I'm guessing my two parts saws have interchangeable mufflers with that, but will check first.

If a mod works out, I'll post pics for others on that in a new thread,

 

[Hedgerow]

Muffler mod is just opening up the exhaust. I did it on my 46cc 2775 and it really woke it up a lot. That saw is a Type1 which has a muffler with a very big outlet to begin with, but the baffle inside needed to be drilled out. Retuned and it made a huge difference.

Yes... And every muffler is different. So just take it off and study it a bit... A good rule of thumb is open the exhaust to at least 80% of the port... Some go a little more... Tops and sides are good spots for extra ports... If real estate allows of course...

 

[Chris-PA]

Thanks WoodHeatWarrior, your comment a ways back started me thinking about the 5020. I will report how it goes with that saw.

Edit: Oh sorry, didn't get the chain type today, will check and report tomorrow.

re. mods: I've found a few references to modding the muffler, but nothing very specific, or even a picture. I understand what it is -- opening baffle holes or even removing baffles, adding a larger exhaust outlet or adding a pipe, but how much to do is the question.

I have a die grinder. I do understand I need to re-tune the carb richer, and why. I have no problem gas welding thin sheet metal for an outlet pipe if needed-- I've welded pulse jet engines out of stove pipe.

I did send for a 46cc refurb as well tonight, and will mod only that muffler, not the 5020, until probably after the warranty is up. I'm guessing my two parts saws have interchangeable mufflers with that, but will check first.

If a mod works out, I'll post pics for others on that in a new thread,

First off, I'm new at playing with saws, although not new at working with engines. With the Type 1 muffler all I had to do was pry the inner edge of the original outlet inward a bit to enlarge it, and enlarge some of the holes in the baffle and add a few on the bottom side. It was trivial and quick to do even though I took my time. I have not seen the later muffler styles, but I'm sure they can be opened up too. You could also buy a Type 1 muffler and shield for pretty cheap to start from.

It's a balance between sound level and how open it is. This is link on the Poulan Sticky thread - there are a couple of pictures after my post that show some examples: http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/98495-414.htm#post3111874

Here are some other threads with some pictures: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/178063.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/98495-413.htm#post3109992

I have not tried adding a pipe outlet, I've kept mine more subdued. however, the outlet on my 2775 is pretty big and it does run well that way. It sounds pretty mean too. Of course, you always need to keep in mind where the outlet is so you don't melt anything.

 

[vtwood]

More info on the 5020:

I adjusted the chain tension when I got home from work before attacking the mess I'm cleaning up here, and the scwrench clanked when I tapped it against the clutch cover. Huh?

It's metal! The clutch side cover of the saw is metal on the 5020. Plastic on the fan side, but metal on the clutch side.

I'm shocked.

Also yes, the chain is 72V type with the bent rakers.

And after running it a second time today, I have to say, I really like the sound. Definitely a deeper bark than the MS250. It's a sorta big saw-ish. It cut maple well again today and a big black birch.

Idles on the ground okay, but doesn't like being bogged even slightly at low rpm -- as in pulling out of a cut with trigger released. Kills it. I think that's just tuning/teething pains. Not a biggie.

The onboard scwrench fell off of the handle twice. It's also a little on the short side, so I'm going to pass on it, and use my regular one in the galvanized bucket I carry with wedges, files, headphones etc.

I don't know what all the manufacturer fuss is about over "toolless" and on-board wrenches. You still have to carry other stuff with you -- a bucket works for that, and how much room does a wrench take up? Also how are you supposed to take off cover screws or loosen a spark plug on "toolless" saws?

Thanks for the additional muffler modding info!

I'm liking this saw more and more. If they put metal fan cover on and de-cheapened the choke knob and stop switch, this machine would be hard to fault.

Metal......I'm still scratching my head.....

 

[tbone75]

More info on the 5020:

I adjusted the chain tension when I got home from work before attacking the mess I'm cleaning up here, and the scwrench clanked when I tapped it against the clutch cover. Huh?

It's metal! The clutch side cover of the saw is metal on the 5020. Plastic on the fan side, but metal on the clutch side.

I'm shocked.

Also yes, the chain is 72V type with the bent rakers.

And after running it a second time today, I have to say, I really like the sound. Definitely a deeper bark than the MS250. It's a sorta big saw-ish. It cut maple well again today and a big black birch.

Idles on the ground okay, but doesn't like being bogged even slightly at low rpm -- as in pulling out of a cut with trigger released. Kills it. I think that's just tuning/teething pains. Not a biggie.

The onboard scwrench fell off of the handle twice. It's also a little on the short side, so I'm going to pass on it, and use my regular one in the galvanized bucket I carry with wedges, files, headphones etc.

I don't know what all the manufacturer fuss is about over "toolless" and on-board wrenches. You still have to carry other stuff with you -- a bucket works for that, and how much room does a wrench take up? Also how are you supposed to take off cover screws or loosen a spark plug on "toolless" saws?

Thanks for the additional muffler modding info!

I'm liking this saw more and more. If they put metal fan cover on and de-cheapened the choke knob and stop switch, this machine would be hard to fault.

Metal......I'm still scratching my head.....

Doesen't sound bad so far?I may have to look around for one.Like I need it! LOL

 

[Chris-PA]

Bummer that the scrench fell out - I was thinking that was a heads-up idea. But I did notice it was on the bottom and figured it probably just snaps in. The saw sounds interesting otherwise. Thanks for the update!