Poulan Pro muffler ?possible mod method?

[Bobby Kirbos]

I would like to do a mod on my PP3516AVX. BUT, I want to do something that is easily reversed.

My muffler looks very similar to this one - internet picture for reference:

The muffler bolts on with 2 screws. They are short screws whose heads are kept out of the exhaust stream by steel sleeves that run the full depth of the muffler. The spark screen does cover these holes on my muffler. Would it be ok to simply remove 1 (or both) of these sleeves?

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ETA
I realized that if I remove them, the screw could fall into the muffler. Not good.
SO
Similar question, just taking things in a slightly different direction....
What if I were to drill some holes into the sleeves?
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I don't know if it will make that much of a difference, but I have already bent the screen cover a bit to allow for more flow out of the "left" side in addition to the opening on the "right" side.

 

[smokey7]

I usually just open the slots some. It does not take much. Ifyou want to reverse it you can just lay a beer can piece over the slot. Not pretty but it would work. Most people mod muffs with no intent on going back to stock. So your question is a newer one.

 

[s sidewall]

I opened the slots, removed the screen and flipped the outlet on my wildthing, just have to adjust carb after mod.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk

 

[scottr]

I usually just open the slots some. It does not take much. Ifyou want to reverse it you can just lay a beer can piece over the slot. Not pretty but it would work. Most people mod muffs with no intent on going back to stock. So your question is a newer one.

I would like to do a mod on my PP3516AVX. BUT, I want to do something that is easily reversed.

My muffler looks very similar to this one - internet picture for reference:

The muffler bolts on with 2 screws. They are short screws whose heads are kept out of the exhaust stream by steel sleeves that run the full depth of the muffler. The spark screen does cover these holes on my muffler. Would it be ok to simply remove 1 (or both) of these sleeves?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
ETA
I realized that if I remove them, the screw could fall into the muffler. Not good.
SO
Similar question, just taking things in a slightly different direction....
What if I were to drill some holes into the sleeves?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't know if it will make that much of a difference, but I have already bent the screen cover a bit to allow for more flow out of the "left" side in addition to the opening on the "right" side.

I think that easily reversable would be to remove the spark arrestor screen add washers in place of the screen then replace the cover and nut . Give it a chance to run .

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

The screen adds that much resistance?

 

[scottr]

The screen

The screen adds that much resistance?

The muffler has a restricter plate behind the two opening slots that close off half of the opening . It would be hard to reverse bending the plate back 45 degrees so removing the screen and lifting the cover plate with washers will help a lot . Most spark arrestor screens that I have seen have about a 50% open area .

 

[dswensen]

I wouldn't remove the steel sleeves - I THINK that they add to the structure of the muffler itself (hold the front cover on??). Like the others, I have just modified the front exits on mine. And, as has been said, you won't want to go back once you do it, and if you do, there are plenty of "spares" around .

Make sure you have the ability (tools) to adjust the carb before you start cutting and drilling.

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

So...

dswensen, you are right - the sleeves do add support and structure.

I opened up the slots with a dremel tool. They are now about 2x larger than they were. I also removed the screen and replaced it with some washers. The gap between the cover and the muffler itself is about 1/8". I did this last night at 21:00, so I have yet to actually turn it over. I think this is about as far as I will take this mainly because I don't have the time right now to mess with it any further. And ye, I have the necessary tools to adjust the carb.

There are a TON of miles on this saw and I'm due for a new one anyway. I just bought a 50cc saw, so I'm looking at something in the 30cc range to be my "small" saw. I have no plans to buy one as of now though. I just blew my wad on the 50cc, and when I do get something, it's not going to be a homeowner grade saw.

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

UPDATE:::

Modified as outlined above
I cranked the thing up last night. Whatever I did to the muffler did change something. I had to lean out the low side to keep it running at idle. Trigger response before I adjusted it - if I slammed it, the thing would flood out. Now that it is adjusted, there is no wind up. Bury the trigger and the thing blasts to max RPM. Wide open with no load, it's just on the edge of 4 stroking. If it cleans up once I get a load on it, I'll leave it where it is and call it a day.

 

[dswensen]

UPDATE:::

Modified as outlined above
I cranked the thing up last night. Whatever I did to the muffler did change something. I had to lean out the low side to keep it running at idle. Trigger response before I adjusted it - if I slammed it, the thing would flood out. Now that it is adjusted, there is no wind up. Bury the trigger and the thing blasts to max RPM. Wide open with no load, it's just on the edge of 4 stroking. If it cleans up once I get a load on it, I'll leave it where it is and call it a day.

Nicely done....