Nik's Poulan Thread

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Well I hate getting old. New seals didn't help the 5020. I started racking my brain thinking what else could cause this symptom.( Acting weird when leaned forward over a log to cut )
Only other thing I can think would be a weak fuel line that kinks when the weight of the filter pulls it . Then I thought , surely I checked that or changed it???!!! Or did I maybe do a quick visual and thought all looked good and it seems to be a low hour saw so it's probably ok??!!!! Could not remember for the life of me.
This mod may not fix your issue,....but a necessary mod.

Get some black nylon strap that looks close to what was used to limit anti vibe springs on saw.
Use an old chain file and heat up the pointy end with a propane torch and use to cut a length about 42mm. Melt a hole in both ends.
Place strap between upper rear handle screw and the large head screw under the choke.

zat make sense?
 
This mod may not fix your issue,....but a necessary mod.

Get some black nylon strap that looks close to what was used to limit anti vibe springs on saw.
Use an old chain file and heat up the pointy end with a propane torch and use to cut a length about 42mm. Melt a hole in both ends.
Place strap between upper rear handle screw and the large head screw under the choke.

zat make sense?
What does that accomplish? I don't have the saw in front of me and I'm having trouble envisioning it.
Thanks!
 
What does that accomplish? I don't have the saw in front of me and I'm having trouble envisioning it.
Thanks!
The 5020 is a strato design.

The spring antivibe design is flawed in the fact that when using the top of the bar, the air throat of the carb closes partially,....****** up the mixture and hence the running of the saw.
Some don't show it immediately,....but with just a little time they do.

Take a look. Pull your air filter cover and air filter off the non running saw and put the bar in different positions to flex the antivibe while you have the throttle wide open and watch the top throat of the carb. Typically it shows when up cutting, but also when just the weight of the saw flexes the springs (IIRC).

Are you clear on my instructions about the making and fitment of the strap?

FWIW, I have 4 of these saws and I like them. 2 with 16" 3/8 and 2 with 18" .325
Slightly de tuned (on paper?) and engineered to be heavy (zinc alloy clutch cover) so as to differentiate from the premium brand.
 
The 5020 is a strato design.

The spring antivibe design is flawed in the fact that when using the top of the bar, the air throat of the carb closes partially,....****** up the mixture and hence the running of the saw.
Some don't show it immediately,....but with just a little time they do.

Take a look. Pull your air filter cover and air filter off the non running saw and put the bar in different positions to flex the antivibe while you have the throttle wide open and watch the top throat of the carb. Typically it shows when up cutting, but also when just the weight of the saw flexes the springs (IIRC).

Are you clear on my instructions about the making and fitment of the strap?

FWIW, I have 4 of these saws and I like them. 2 with 16" 3/8 and 2 with 18" .325
Slightly de tuned (on paper?) and engineered to be heavy (zinc alloy clutch cover) so as to differentiate from the premium brand.
Thanks for the details. I think I get it now and will give it a whirl after deer season. I actually like the saw minus this strange issue.
 
Just be warned. A few guys tried those rubber coated seals before the boat seals that are just like oem.

They failed over time and popped out = rubber coated ones.

I never tried rubber coated ones to know. Just feedback I seen on them by several people.

Boat seal compared to oem.

Always worked well for me. The rubber coated ones are designed for dissimilar metals. Steel vs mag re coefficient of expansion.

Almost all of the metric seals are made that way today.

They work well but if anyone is afraid of them they don't need to use them.

I didn't figure this was an outboard motor discussion.
 
Always worked well for me. The rubber coated ones are designed for dissimilar metals. Steel vs mag re coefficient of expansion.

Almost all of the metric seals are made that way today.

They work well but if anyone is afraid of them they don't need to use them.

I didn't figure this was an outboard motor discussion.
Boat seals made and spec just like OEM Poulan ones. Boat seal and OEM in the 2 pics.

I use trans seal in 3400-4000 and bunch of others do too.

But not a trans seal discussion either.

About what works in poulan saws 100% with no issues reported.

Use what works for you imo. :cheers:
 

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2 guys I know that both had failures with the rubber coated seals 2800-3750. I mean look at it you can pop them in with your fingers in their video's. IMO that should be a warning in itself.

They both said = Do not use the seals I recommend in the video. Dubb's Saw Shop had a failure with them, and now I have as well.

I ended up selling them 60 oem seals between them. 40 to one 20 to other. Otherwise use the spec oem boat seal just like the oem poulan seal.
 
Well now I got time to get this saw ready to ship after New Years. Glad new owner agreed to wait till after crazy shipping season. Already have several listed boxes in lala land somewhere.
🤦‍♂️

My last chrome bore craftsman 3.3. 1997 with the newer Gen2 tank they went too. Can tell by only fuel line at top of tank. Gen1 tanks had fuel line and tank vent there.

I had a ton of this. Loved them for using.

All not even shown in the one pic. Even had a NOS one I traded off.


c33last.jpgc33lastt.jpgc33lasttt.jpgc33x5zz.jpgc33NOSzz.jpgc33NOSz.jpg
 

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