Poulan S25DA

[sedanman]

Both saws turn freely, neither is siezed, Merry Christmas on the saws and the shipping. Paul

 

[Mike mandry]

Paul, I am looking for a good ignition module for a S25 (electronic)

If you know where I can get a good used one, give me a shout.

Thanks

Mike

 

[sedanman]

Mike, I was never a Poulan man myself, just happend upon a few. I already agreed to send everything to Timothy. He can do whatever he wants with it. If the ignition on his green saw will get yous going maybe he could strip the green one and send you carcass.

 

[Timothy]

there's a powerhead on ebay right now for 5, i don't know if that's a good deal

*if one from one of the Craftsmen will do it i'll send it, i don't know if i'll be using the one from the Poulan, if not you can have it

** maybe you can tell if this is what you need, i understand there weretwo types on this model http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19080

 

[Mike mandry]

Timothy,

Yours looks like it has points. I have a parts saw with a points system, but you cant swap them. The mounting boss on the cylinders are different.

Dont know if the saws Paul are giving you have the module i need or not.

I'll take a picture of mine soon & post it.

Thanks

Mike

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Sedanman,

The saw in your pic is a Micro 25. I wonder how many parts interchange.

Tom

 

[Al Smith]

I don't think many.If I recall right,that little saw is 2 cu in,and the other is 2.1 cu in.The little red one,has only an automatic type oiler,impulse type.I had one,which I gave to my son.I must have had the oiler off about a half a dozen times,before I could get it to oil.It cut okay,for a little bitty saw,but not like the 2.1 cu in model.If the chrome isn't totally shot,it might be possible to buff the piston,and save it.This,however is very iffy,most likely just parts at this point,too bad.

 

[Timothy]

i'm in the process of doing just that, heh, the flywheel is off finally

 

[Timothy]

here's how it's looking at the moment, the piston doesn't want to come out of the cylinder, i'll try putting the cylinder in a vise with wood to protect it, when and if i get it out, where should i sand it, just where the scoring is?

 

[Al Smith]

If you get the piston out in one piece,inspect the cylinder.If it has score lines,into the aluminum,it's junk.Make sure that none of the chrome,is flaking.If this in tact,proceed to the next step.What I am about to tell you,is a hap haxard fix,and not first class,but rather shade tree mechanic.Remove the rings,and mark them as to position,and placement in the grooves.Do not sand the piston.Take a file,and remove the high spots on the score marks,of the piston.Clean the cylider with a scotch brite pad.Use this,also ,very lightly on the piston.If you can get it cleaned up,check the fit in the cylinder,without the rings installed.Make sure it doesn't hang up anywhere in it's travel.Make sure the ring grooves are clean,and reinstall the rings,and the rest of the engine.If you can get it to run again,run it rich on fuel about 24 to 1 on oil.The reason you don't sand a piston,is a little known fact about the dull coating on the piston.In the auto industry,this is called"tin plating",but is actually an anodizing process,done to the piston,for several reasons.Reason 1,is the fact that the plating,retains oil.Number 2,it resists galvanic action,a phenomina that occurs when different metals are in contact with one another.I suspect,that the rings were stuck,from the previous posts.You might get lucky.

 

[Lawn Masters]

My S25 still needs an air filter cover and an atom module. I guess its my rainy day project saw.

 

[Timothy]

i'm thinking of buying this, any comments? i asked the seller if the compression is good, he hasn't replied yet

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4341108596&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

 

[Al Smith]

Cheap enough!

 

[Timothy]

i've removed every bolt i can see, but the crankcase is not coming apart, anyone ever done this on one of these?

* the cylinder is scored and has a small gouge, this saw is done for

 

[sedanman]

Timothy, Did you ever get the saws I sent you? I know you went and got a Stihl 025 but a simple little acknowledgment that the free saws arrived would be a small kindness that might make me want to continue being a generous person.

 

[trimmmed]

Hi paul, maybe you missed this

http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=232899&postcount=8

from thread

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=18680

Granted, the acknowledgement was small........

 

[sedanman]

Still a nod on this thread would not have killed anyone. Courtesy is dead it seems.

 

[Stumper]

Paul, Thanks for being a nice guy. The pay it forward thread was/is an admirable idea.

 

[kcomp1863]

Owner's or Service Manual

Just curious if anyone has a pdf copy of the manuals for either the S25DA OR Wright 122A version of this saw. Thanks in advance if anyone can help me!

 

[atomic67]

Lay the saw on its side with the bar on the bottom. The oil reservoir is on the front with the small cap. Bend a piece of wire into a small hook and fish out the oil tube. Don't yank on it. Make sure that there is a screen filter on the end. Since you emptied the oil reservoir before you started you may as well rinse it out. Use fuel oil.

Take off the bar and chain. Look for the oiler hole by the mounting studs. With the cap off and the reservoir empty, give the hole a gentle puff of compressed air. Don't go nuts! You're checking to see if the tube might be clogged. More later...

Now you have to go to work. The oil pump is located behind the flywheel. Not too hard to remove. I did it many times without a flywheel puller. Be careful! You can use an air impact tool to loosen the flywheel nut. If you don't have impact tools the nut can be loosened. Be sure that your ratchet is set the right way. Look at the flywheel. You'll see the smaller fins and then you'll see that there are two big blobs. One of the blobs holds the magnet for the ignition. Take a beefy screwdriver and slide it in against the blob and brace it against the side of your socket. Using a deep well socket works best. Turn the wrench. If you don't keep the screwdriver low you'll brake off a fin and unbalance the flywheel. Junk...

After you have the nut loose, run it up so that the top of the nut is flush with the end of the crank. Take a beefy screwdriver and pry gently under the blob again. As you pry, smack the nut with a small ball peen hammer. The combination of prying and a smack will pop the flywheel off the tapered crank shaft. If the key comes out of the crankshaft, put it on the magnet on flywheel. If you misplace any pieces look there first.

Now you'll see the oiler buried back in a little hollow. The manual pump rod goes in the top. Remove the bolts that hold the pump in place. Slip it out. Open up the pump and see if there is crud inside. Clean with carb cleaner. Look at the pump. There were a couple of configurations. You might be able to flip an o-ring upside down to get a little more life out of them. Now you can use some compressed air to flush the tubes again. When you put things back together pay attention to the gasket under the pump. If the gasket shreaded take a very thin layer of form-a-gasket and spread it in the ripped layers. The oiler relied partially on crankcase pressure to operate. You don't want any leaks.

Reverse order to get things looking like a saw again.

Fill the reservoir and pump it up. Does anything come out the side? You might have to pump a little with the engine off. Most of the time a little dribbles out. Start the engine and keep pumping.

I ran 25's for over 20 years. They were great saws in their time. The oilers were a weak item though. I found that if an oiler quit working I went to a bucket of junk parts and swapped in a new one.

Keep us posted.

i know this is an old thread, but i find myself trying to remove my oil pump as it is leaking on the backside (bad gasket perhaps) can you remove the oil pump with the points housing in the way