Power for Alaskan Mill

[Acer]

I'm thinking of getting an Alaskan mill..I'd mainly use it to slab up hardwoods, especially ash, in the 18"-24" diameter range, to a handleable size, then finish off converting to 5' x 1.5" stakes on a bandsaw. What would be a good choice of power head? I only know Stihl products, and always liked the 046, but would that have the guts to drive a 30" alaskan mill? Would a 066 be a better choice?

Also, for those who've used these before, what sort of accuracy can you expect with a little practice? I'm most interested in how parallel you can get successive cuts. What's the minimum feasible plank size (thickness)?

Cheers for any thoughts, Nick.

 

[Newfie]

I use a 3120 for my Alaskan. I have made cuts as thin as 1/2". As long as you pay attention to what you are doing and set up your first slab cut properly, you should end up with consistent thickness. A bad first slab cut and the rest will follow suit. I'm not that familiar with Stihl products but I would guess an 066 is as small as you should go, especially if making wide cuts in hardwood.

 

[Lawn Masters]

My advice would be use nothing less than a Husky 395XP Jonsered 2195 Stihl 064/066 or the equivilant saw in HP. They all come out to about 7HP stock.

As for the mill accuracy, I dont have a clue cause I dont have a mill yet. I got one planned soon though.

 

[Javelin]

All of those saws would be a good choice. I would also include a dolmar 9010-solo 694 in that group. Also I would look at a GB saw mill!

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Originally posted by Acer
I'm thinking of getting an Alaskan mill..I'd mainly use it to slab up hardwoods, especially ash, in the 18"-24" diameter range, to a handleable size, then finish off converting to 5' x 1.5" stakes on a bandsaw. What would be a good choice of power head? I only know Stihl products, and always liked the 046, but would that have the guts to drive a 30" alaskan mill? Would a 066 be a better choice?

Also, for those who've used these before, what sort of accuracy can you expect with a little practice? I'm most interested in how parallel you can get successive cuts. What's the minimum feasible plank size (thickness)?

Cheers for any thoughts, Nick.

Per your question, the 066 would be better than the 046.

 

[rb_in_va]

Nick,
I have to agree with Rob on the 066. I just used my Alaskan last weekend for the first time. I have an 066 it works very well. It is not the easiest way to make lumber, but works and it's fun. I cut up some poplar and there is penty more to mill where that came from. The first slab we cut was 3" thick! The thinnest was 1". The surface was a lot better than I expected. Also, it was something I thought I could do on my own if I had to, but another person to help is definitely good. Rest assured when you fire that thing up, you will draw a crowd and have more help than you need. I will post some pictures of the wood we milled when I get them. One of the "help" had a digital camera and took some action shots. Later, Roger.

 

[user 2993]

I have used my 046 for milling more than I would liked to have. I use it as a backup when I am waiting for backordered parts for my problematic 30 yr old 090.
The 046 does it, but takes a long time, during which the saw gets real hot. Can't imagine it helps it any.
Spend the extra $$, it will pay back even if you only count the extra life of the machine.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Shoot, I gotta 090 G, I outta get ME a sawmill!

 

[SilverBlue]

Acer are Alaskan mills available in the UK? I prefer the GB mill as it supports the chainsaw head and has 4 vertical supports, it’s better than the Alaskan. I recently used a 038 to mill with a 32" bar and it worked just fine, a 066 will do fine also. If you have to buy from the states then Jeff Sikkema is the man to contact.

 

[Sapwood]

Acer, I hope you realize that you need ripping chain. That can be any kind of chain but filed to 10 degree's. LoPro or Picco chain makes for a smaller kerf.

Sap

 

[rb_in_va]

MB,
Go for it, that powerhead is perfect for milling!

 

[Acer]

Thanks for all the replies.

I've always wanted a bigger saw like an 046 or 066, "just in case", but could never justify it. I can get through most of my work with an 026. However, all this milling gear will pay for itself with the profit from the stakes I'll be making, as they're sold already. The 066 would be my choice after your advice.

I'm not sure if you can get these mills in the UK. I was planning on ordering from Bailey's, although I'd like to check out the GB mill as well. Does Jeff Sikkema have a website? As luck would have it, I heard about a contractor who will be milling in a local wood tomorrow, so I'll pop up there and see if I can give him a hand.

 

[glens]

I like my 066.

Here's <a href="http://www.snssawshop.com/">Jeff's site</a>.

Glen

 

[SilverBlue]

Jeff doesn’t have the GB mill posted on his site but I did post one here somewhere I think it was on rbtree’s thread. Email Jeff Acer he has better prices.

 

[Acer]

I got to see this contractor with his mill last Sunday. It's only the little log mill, and he runs an 036 on it. I didn't get a close look at it as he was busy, but I wasn't too impressed. It looked hard work, and the chain just produced piles of dust. It was a ripping chain he was using, but it must have been blunt - I'm sure a cross cut chain could have gone faster than he was doing. He did get a surprisingly good finish to each plank, though..

Talking of ripping chains, I've never used one myself, but I'm told that such a chain should cut along the grain as fast as a cross cut chain cuts across the grain..is that abuot right? I've seen two types here. One looks like a normal full chisel chain but with a top plate angle of about 10 degrees. The other has a mixture of cutters...first a left/right set of full chisel cutters as above, then a pair of left/right cutters with a top plate of about half the usual width. I'm told the last one is the best..anyone know which brand of chain that would be? I'd ask one of my local chainsaw dealers, but none of them know anything about chainsaws...

 

[rb_in_va]

Originally posted by Acer
I'd ask one of my local chainsaw dealers, but none of them know anything about chainsaws...

A guy on another forum said that the more the person at the saw shop knows about chainsaws, the less they know about milling. I have found it to be true at some local shops, but I finally found one shop that didn't give me the blank stare when I mentioned that I was going to be using my saw for milling.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Originally posted by Acer


Talking of ripping chains, I've never used one myself, but I'm told that such a chain should cut along the grain as fast as a cross cut chain cuts across the grain..is that abuot right? I've seen two types here. One looks like a normal full chisel chain but with a top plate angle of about 10 degrees. The other has a mixture of cutters...first a left/right set of full chisel cutters as above, then a pair of left/right cutters with a top plate of about half the usual width. I'm told the last one is the best..anyone know which brand of chain that would be? I'd ask one of my local chainsaw dealers, but none of them know anything about chainsaws...

You can get the chain with the top plates removed from Granberg. I tried it, but was not impressed. The slow speed could have to do with a dull chain or an undersized power head.

 

[Skooks]

GB Mill

Hi all:

I bought a GB mill from Jeff last year. I am very impressed with it. It has already payed for itself for sure. I run an 066 with a 36 inch bar and Oregon full-comp 3/8 rip chain. I'm mostly ripping big doug-fir (some too large for the bar). It's definitely a LOT of work, but tolerable if you have someone helping you.

I would highly recommend the GB and also Jeff. He treated me well.

I will try to attach a picture of my setup.

Cheers,

Skooks

 

[rb_in_va]

Skooks,

Nice looking setup you got there. How much for the mill itself? I wish my Alaskan had the handle like yours. I must agree on the thing about help. It seems it would be almost impossible to do solo. In Maloff's book, I've heard he talks about a setup where you can mill by yourself. It's so much fun though, you shouldn't have any trouble finding someone to give you a hand. Later, Roger.

 

[user 2993]

I rarely have a helper when milling. You learn ways of moving the material. It can be tough, but not impossible.
The dust produced from milling is very fine. It is because of the way the teeth are cutting into the wood fibre. This also is what makes it a slow process.