Powerhorse Splitter

[r2heisch]

I was recently given a Powerhorse 20 ton splitter that runs great but not splitting. I initially changed the fluid and found the hydraulic fluid screen to be clogged. After cleaning the screen, it worked fine for about 30 minutes. I was running it hard, trying to split some large difficult rounds and then it stopped producing enough pressure. The ram is moving back and forth at normal speed, just stops when it comes to a load. The engine does not bog down. (Also might note that this particular splitter is designed to split both directions.)

Installed a gauge between the pump and the valve. When the ram is moving with no load, the pressure is 0 to negligible. When it comes under load, I am only getting about 500 psi, both directions.

Does this sound like the pump or is there some additional troubleshooting that I should do?

Thanks!

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Not sure what the pressure should be but I’d think it would be closer to 2000. Sounds like a pump issue.

 

[lone wolf]

I was recently given a Powerhorse 20 ton splitter that runs great but not splitting. I initially changed the fluid and found the hydraulic fluid screen to be clogged. After cleaning the screen, it worked fine for about 30 minutes. I was running it hard, trying to split some large difficult rounds and then it stopped producing enough pressure. The ram is moving back and forth at normal speed, just stops when it comes to a load. The engine does not bog down. (Also might note that this particular splitter is designed to split both directions.)

Installed a gauge between the pump and the valve. When the ram is moving with no load, the pressure is 0 to negligible. When it comes under load, I am only getting about 500 psi, both directions.

Does this sound like the pump or is there some additional troubleshooting that I should do?

Thanks!

Did you deadhead it fully for a couple seconds, if so it sounds like the pump. It should be 2-3 thousand PSI likely. Pull the pump off rip it apart and look for metal,wear ,broken gears,or woodruff keys. How many hours on it?

 

[r2heisch]

Not sure what the pressure should be but I’d think it would be closer to 2000. Sounds like a pump issue.

Yes, it's a Northern Tool 2-stage pump, 11gpm @650 psi / 2.9 gpm @2500. Thanks!

 

[r2heisch]

Did you deadhead it fully for a couple seconds, if so it sounds like the pump. It should be 2-3 thousand PSI likely. Pull the pump off rip it apart and look for metal,wear ,broken gears,or woodruff keys. How many hours on it?

Thanks. No idea on the hours as it was given to me. I did deadhead for a few seconds both directions and only got 500.

 

[lone wolf]

Thanks. No idea on the hours as it was given to me. I did deadhead for a few seconds both directions and only got 500.

Sounds like what a failing pump would act like.

 

[r2heisch]

Sounds like what a failing pump would act like.

Thanks!

 

[user 74409]

Leaking cylinder piston seals would have same symptoms with pressurized oil leaking past seals and returning to tank.

 

[rmotoman]

What plugged the screen? If metal probably the pump is bad. If rubber it could be the seal on the piston.

 

[r2heisch]

Leaking cylinder piston seals would have same symptoms with pressurized oil leaking past seals and returning to tank.

So it could be the piston even with no evidence of oil leaking on the outside?

 

[r2heisch]

What plugged the screen? If metal probably the pump is bad. If rubber it could be the seal on the piston.

It seemed like a mix of very small particles of metal and maybe rubber.

 

[user 74409]

If the cylinder piston seals are bad your leak will be internal to the cylinder. As an example, high pressure oil going into extend port will leak past piston seals and exit cylinder via retract port with no external leakage. See diagram below.

One way to test is to run hydraulic hose from valve working port and add a cap or ball valve in closed position at other end of hose with pressure gauge connected between valve and end of blocked hose. Be very careful since relief on directional valve is set north of 3,000 psi to make 20 tons of force on a 4" cylinder. Start engine (full throttle is not required) and use directional lever to direct oil into dead-headed hose. If pressure builds to 3,000+ before relief valve in control valve opens your pump and relief valve are good and cylinder has internal leak. If you only see same 500 psi, move pressure gauge between pump outlet and control (relief) valve to isolate if pump or relief valve are your issue.

 

[dave_dj1]

So it could be the piston even with no evidence of oil leaking on the outside?

Yes, could be bypassing internally.
Most likely a worn out piston in need of a rebuild.

 

[r2heisch]

If the cylinder piston seals are bad your leak will be internal to the cylinder. As an example, high pressure oil going into extend port will leak past piston seals and exit cylinder via retract port with no external leakage. See diagram below.

One way to test is to run hydraulic hose from valve working port and add a cap or ball valve in closed position at other end of hose with pressure gauge connected between valve and end of blocked hose. Be very careful since relief on directional valve is set north of 3,000 psi to make 20 tons of force on a 4" cylinder. Start engine (full throttle is not required) and use directional lever to direct oil into dead-headed hose. If pressure builds to 3,000+ before relief valve in control valve opens your pump and relief valve are good and cylinder has internal leak. If you only see same 500 psi, move pressure gauge between pump outlet and control (relief) valve to isolate if pump or relief valve are your issue.

View attachment 1047181

If the cylinder piston seals are bad your leak will be internal to the cylinder. As an example, high pressure oil going into extend port will leak past piston seals and exit cylinder via retract port with no external leakage. See diagram below.

One way to test is to run hydraulic hose from valve working port and add a cap or ball valve in closed position at other end of hose with pressure gauge connected between valve and end of blocked hose. Be very careful since relief on directional valve is set north of 3,000 psi to make 20 tons of force on a 4" cylinder. Start engine (full throttle is not required) and use directional lever to direct oil into dead-headed hose. If pressure builds to 3,000+ before relief valve in control valve opens your pump and relief valve are good and cylinder has internal leak. If you only see same 500 psi, move pressure gauge between pump outlet and control (relief) valve to isolate if pump or relief valve are your issue.

View attachment 1047181

Thanks guys. Most helpful!

 

[r2heisch]

Thanks all!

 

[mudrat2]

Could some of the crud have gotten into the pump control and it is not switching into the high pressure/low volume mode?

 

[r2heisch]

Could some of the crud have gotten into the pump control and it is not switching into the high pressure/low volume mode?

I'm thinking that the screen performed well and would have prevented anything getting past it.

 

[kevin j]

Don’t start changing cylinder or pump until you know what the problem is not just guessing.

The main relief valve in the control valve could be venting to tank if there’s trash in it
Before changing the pump, disconnect the hose from the main spool valve and put a relief valve to tank. Slowly increase the relief valve setting and see if the gauge shows increasing pressure. That’s the proper way. The risky way is to add a manual needle valve in the pump line and slowly increase load on the pump and see if you can build above 500.

500 is somewhat coincidentally in the unloading valve range. So, if the check valve in the pump had dirt holding it open it might be unloading both sections back to the inlet. You could take the cartridge out of the side of the pump and see if there’s trash in it.

 

[r2heisch]

Don’t start changing cylinder or pump until you know what the problem is not just guessing.

The main relief valve in the control valve could be venting to tank if there’s trash in it
Before changing the pump, disconnect the hose from the main spool valve and put a relief valve to tank. Slowly increase the relief valve setting and see if the gauge shows increasing pressure. That’s the proper way. The risky way is to add a manual needle valve in the pump line and slowly increase load on the pump and see if you can build above 500.

500 is somewhat coincidentally in the unloading valve range. So, if the check valve in the pump had dirt holding it open it might be unloading both sections back to the inlet. You could take the cartridge out of the side of the pump and see if there’s trash in it.

Thanks