Practically brand new CS 2238 no spark

[ray benson]

There is a Beg For Manuals thread on this site. Ask there for a service manual and IPL.

All I have seen is an ipl and owner's manual. Don't believe there is a service manual for it. Coil air gap on other 2200 series saws is .012"

 

[NSEric]

I have one of these saws in the junk pile under the bench.
It's a red cheapy 3814 poulan clam shell.
Buy a running one for 50 bucks and put your red plastic on it.

 

[bsmith717]

I have one of these saws in the junk pile under the bench.
It's a red cheapy 3814 poulan clam shell.
Buy a running one for 50 bucks and put your red plastic on it.

You gotta be kidding? I think in the fire pit our back might be a better place for it.

I have one of these saws in the junk pile under the bench.
It's a red cheapy 3814 poulan clam shell.
Buy a running one for 50 bucks and put your red plastic on it.that was

 

[bsmith717]

That was supposed to be the exact deal. A decent looking running little guy for50. So hot hspd of the equation atleast.

 

[Okie]

When spinning with a drill leave the spark plug out so as it will spin faster.
If it has the correct magneto and the air gap is set correctly and the FLYWHEEL IS THE CORRECT POLARITY it will spark.

Couple hints about checking for weak to no spark.

Make sure the flywheel magnet is ok using a screwdriver to check for magnetism.
Make sure you are spinning the flywheel the same direction that the pull rope rotates the flywheel which is usually CCW which will loosen the flywheel nut. If you spin the flywheel the wrong direction you will get weak or no spark, especially the electronic type magneto coil. If you spin the flywheel the other direction and see a spark the flywheel is the wrong polarity for the magneto. Always look for spark in reduce light and do not just let the spark plug flop around, ground it good nd do not rely on a bulb type spark tester. Gap the plug at about .040.
Set the air gap at .010 using feeler gauges. Some plastic cards are .020 and too wide air gap but will usually get a spark but not within air gap specs. Rotate the flywheel by hand and check the gap at the magnet so as to make sure the magnet does not touch the magneto laminations.
If correct flywheel, rotation, magnet ok, coil wire ok, air gap ok. kill wire disconnected at the magneto and no spark it's usually a bad magneto and the electronic magneto's cannot be reliably tested with a ohmmeter due to electronics inside.
One guy said the China writing should not be on that flywheel. If you spin it the opposite direction and see a faint spark, it's wrong polarity flywheel..
Before I spend any money or time on any engine that I've never heard run I also look past the known issue such as you have, no ignition. I take a gander at the compression or in your case remove the muffler and look at the piston. Try to figure out if it's even worth your time and money repairing. (unless you just need the experience)
Helps keep from throwing good money at a bad thing. (ie: no need in getting a spark if the piston/jug is bad, etc)

Lots of parts on Fleece bay for that model saw. I see a new magneto and spark plug plus wiring for less than $15.

Was the Magneto you subbed a new one or what???????????

 

[cookies]

I have one of these saws in the junk pile under the bench.
It's a red cheapy 3814 poulan clam shell.
Buy a running one for 50 bucks and put your red plastic on it.

Why not offer to send him the flywheel and coil?

 

[NSEric]

Why not offer to send him the flywheel and coil?

Im in canada, that would cost as much as him buying a running saw.
If someone local wants it they can have it, it starts right up but wont idle hot. I think it's crank seals but dont want to fix it, I have better saws to run now.

 

[bsmith717]

UWhen spinning with a drill leave the spark plug out so as it will spin faster.
If it has the correct magneto and the air gap is set correctly and the FLYWHEEL IS THE CORRECT POLARITY it will spark.

Couple hints about checking for weak to no spark.

Make sure the flywheel magnet is ok using a screwdriver to check for magnetism.
Make sure you are spinning the flywheel the same direction that the pull rope rotates the flywheel which is usually CCW which will loosen the flywheel nut. If you spin the flywheel the wrong direction you will get weak or no spark, especially the electronic type magneto coil. If you spin the flywheel the other direction and see a spark the flywheel is the wrong polarity for the magneto. Always look for spark in reduce light and do not just let the spark plug flop around, ground it good nd do not rely on a bulb type spark tester. Gap the plug at about .040.
Set the air gap at .010 using feeler gauges. Some plastic cards are .020 and too wide air gap but will usually get a spark but not within air gap specs. Rotate the flywheel by hand and check the gap at the magnet so as to make sure the magnet does not touch the magneto laminations.
If correct flywheel, rotation, magnet ok, coil wire ok, air gap ok. kill wire disconnected at the magneto and no spark it's usually a bad magneto and the electronic magneto's cannot be reliably tested with a ohmmeter due to electronics inside.
One guy said the China writing should not be on that flywheel. If you spin it the opposite direction and see a faint spark, it's wrong polarity flywheel..
Before I spend any money or time on any engine that I've never heard run I also look past the known issue such as you have, no ignition. I take a gander at the compression or in your case remove the muffler and look at the piston. Try to figure out if it's even worth your time and money repairing. (unless you just need the experience)
Helps keep from throwing good money at a bad thing. (ie: no need in getting a spark if the piston/jug is bad, etc)

Lots of parts on Fleece bay for that model saw. I see a new magneto and spark plug plus wiring for less than $15.

Was the Magneto you subbed a new one or what???????????

Thanks Sooner, (I reckon?) I have always left the spark plug out and ground it to the engine for checking spark. I’d rather not F with extra that could be a failure point. And I do it in as dark as I can.

The card I used this co around was 165/1000”. Not sure if that’s within range.

 

[bsmith717]

All I have seen is an ipl and owner's manual. Don't believe there is a service manual for it. Coil air gap on other 2200 series saws is .012"

Thank you so much for the manual file. I’m looking through it now.

With my card being .0165im not sure if ~.0040” is within spec.

 

[bsmith717]

Why not offer to send him the flywheel and coil?

I didn’t even think to ask, you’re a smart guy.

 

[cookies]

Im in canada, that would cost as much as him buying a running saw.
If someone local wants it they can have it, it starts right up but wont idle hot. I think it's crank seals but dont want to fix it, I have better saws to run now.

you never know, I'd see what ups or a flat rate box costs to send the two small items in not the whole powerhead. Why dont we start by asking you politely to please look at the flywheel for us and see if there is a part# or other information to compare it to whats on his and possibly find a replacement if its inconvenient or I went too far in asking.

 

[bsmith717]

Well I tore into this wildly complicated and unfamiliar little guy. It’s got a Zama carb on that’s made in China. I’m starting to think that this thing was just made in China as a cheapo beepo homeowner saw. I’m sure all the poulan a if a similar design weren’t built here.

Does anyone know what the associated Poulan saws models number was? Idk if I’m goin to be able to put it back together.

Idk if any of you played Contra back in the day but the last pic bring a back memories of the second level boss of memory serves.

 

[bsmith717]

Just a few more that I couldn’t post because of the limit.

 

[cookies]

I've dealt with dozens of those little carbs, they are easy to stick a kit in but once you touch it you must replace every tygon hose and the primer bulb if it has ghost cracks or is not soft/flexable. I had a poulan that was about the same exact saw but different colored plastics that gave me a absolute fit to get running. Had spark, jumped a wide plug gap and sometimes it even ran....I put a used oem coil and flywheel on it and stuffed new guts in the carb and replaced the tygon hoses and used a stihl style fuel filter. All I did was file about .02 off the flywheel key to adv it and open the muffler outlet to twice the original size then put stihl semi chisel lp chain on it..
A good friend who loves his husky 455 rancher had a couple large pines fall in a storm. I kept telling him I own a crappy 125 dollar poulan (36cc? predator) but I'll help you cut your downed pine trees up to get it done faster. We started cutting the same tree working outward and I could see him glancing over watching me as I was making much better time on the same size cuts. Near the end he came over and asked to run it, I obliged but warned him it did not have a orthopedic handle like his. He made a few cuts, shut it off and started mumbling something about I should have known better then proceeded to say "mine is definately a cadillac compared to that one and I know that thing is not normal". I sold that saw a couple years ago, I hope that buyer enjoys it still.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3258224916.../Xl7rKk5JqKEVJ1GrOHlnzDSgg==|tkp:BFBMiOXo3qdj

 

[bsmith717]

I've dealt with dozens of those little carbs, they are easy to stick a kit in but once you touch it you must replace every tygon hose and the primer bulb if it has ghost cracks or is not soft/flexable. I had a poulan that was about the same exact saw but different colored plastics that gave me a absolute fit to get running. Had spark, jumped a wide plug gap and sometimes it even ran....I put a used oem coil and flywheel on it and stuffed new guts in the carb and replaced the tygon hoses and used a stihl style fuel filter. All I did was file about .02 off the flywheel key to adv it and open the muffler outlet to twice the original size then put stihl semi chisel lp chain on it..
A good friend who loves his husky 455 rancher had a couple large pines fall in a storm. I kept telling him I own a crappy 125 dollar poulan (36cc? predator) but I'll help you cut your downed pine trees up to get it done faster. We started cutting the same tree working outward and I could see him glancing over watching me as I was making much better time on the same size cuts. Near the end he came over and asked to run it, I obliged but warned him it did not have a orthopedic handle like his. He made a few cuts, shut it off and started mumbling something about I should have known better then proceeded to say "mine is definately a cadillac compared to that one and I know that thing is not normal". I sold that saw a couple years ago, I hope that buyer enjoys it still.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3258224916.../Xl7rKk5JqKEVJ1GrOHlnzDSgg==|tkp:BFBMiOXo3qdj

That’s great. I think it’ll be a neat little saw, if I get it going.

 

[Myce]

That’s great. I think it’ll be a neat little saw, if I get it going.

I rarely post here, just lurk for advice (and entertainment when conversations get heated.) If you have identified the issue of no spark, this would seem to be the first problem to address. With no disrespect to those who have posted about using a credit card for coil gap, the average card is 0.03" The spec gap is 0.012" so I would suggest, as a previous post stated, get this adjusted with a feeler gauge. Having rebuilt many non working saws this is a main cause of no / weak spark problems. If your saw should then spark it will fire up, or if not it will, with a small amount of fuel fed into the head. Then you look at carb / fuel supply / air leak problems. In summary, fault finding is about solving known issues before exploring other possibilities and being very methodical, IMHO.

 

[bsmith717]

I rarely post here, just lurk for advice (and entertainment when conversations get heated.) If you have identified the issue of no spark, this would seem to be the first problem to address. With no disrespect to those who have posted about using a credit card for coil gap, the average card is 0.03" The spec gap is 0.012" so I would suggest, as a previous post stated, get this adjusted with a feeler gauge. Having rebuilt many non working saws this is a main cause of no / weak spark problems. If your saw should then spark it will fire up, or if not it will, with a small amount of fuel fed into the head. Then you look at carb / fuel supply / air leak problems. In summary, fault finding is about solving known issues before exploring other possibilities and being very methodical, IMHO.

Taking apart and putting saws together is just a hobby of mine and I find a decent amount of enjoyment from it aswell. This saw has been a bit of an enigma. But that’s due to my own ignorance I feel now. I was assuming since it had the jonserrd/husky tag on it all of these Chinese parts were aftermarket. After all of the time I’ve spent since acquiring it I’ve come to believe it’s actually 100% as it was from the factory. It’s just a cheapo little saw that has a bunch of parts that were manufactured where the things can be manufactured the cheapest.

I’m going to get a set of feeler gauges and see what I can get rolling.

 

[SteveSr]

I’m going to get a set of feeler gauges and see what I can get rolling.

Feeler gauges won't curve and will give you an erroneous setting. Just find a business card or piece of manilla folder that is .010"-.012" and put it between the magnets and the coil and then tighten the coil screws.

Then with the spark plug out but connected and grounded do a pull test with the rope (NOT a drill) in a dark place. If you still have no spark then I would suspect the coil.

 

[bsmith717]

So here’s how the CS 2238 sits as of right now. I’m really just over the whole thing even though I did spend 20 odd dollars and a few hours on it thus far.

I’ve actually become quite enamored with an Echo CS 400 I purchased about a week or two ago. After opening the muffler up and popping off the limiters for the carbs in order to tune it properly, it’s quite enjoyable.

How is this cute little bar look on it, what do you think guys?

Oh, and here’s that 14 inch Jonsered bar next to a 12 inch bar that came on the chainsaw chainsaw I purchased off a Facebook ad (cs 2511 copy) that when it arrived it never started properly and I haven’t even messed with it yet lol! You know I’m gonna slap that behemoth on that 400 and let it rip!