Premix fuel OK to use?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
We're well past the opinion stage on oils and we are onto the, if your run this your dumb stage.
It's not opinion. ULTRA is actually a FB rated oil which means it has been tested to that standard. It's a fact FB is a early 80's standard. It's a fact that it's an ashless oil and is formulated like a marine oil. It's a fact ashless oils don't have any detergents and it's also a fact that the dispersents used instead do not work at the ring belt temps an air cooled saw can reach.
You have been lead to water.
 
It's not opinion. ULTRA is actually a FB rated oil which means it has been tested to that standard. It's a fact FB is a early 80's standard. It's a fact that it's an ashless oil and is formulated like a marine oil. It's a fact ashless oils don't have any detergents and it's also a fact that the dispersents used instead do not work at the ring belt temps an air cooled saw can reach.
You have been lead to water.

It has that rating because it's a biodegradable oil. Nevertheless, it lubricates just fine.
 
I would subscribe to your channel , "The influencer" ... has a nice ring to it !
Don't hold your breath. As I am sure you are aware to really get a scientific test with statistical validity of these sorts of things the revenue generated on You Tube won't pencil out and not even close.
 
I love this thread! This type of thread has convinced me many years ago of just mixing all of the 2 cycle oil I have and any I can get cheap at garage sales and auctions together. Blend it, filter it and mix with ethanol free gas at 3oz per gallon. It is environmentally irresponsible at any time to dispose of purchased 2 cycle oil in a land fill because it does not meet JASO FD certification. If you bought it use it and move on. I love oil threads!
 
Some dude from Bob is the oil guy site...

"Yeah I asked the guy at STIHL Regional GM and he said STIHL didn’t pay for the FD rating like they did with the STIHL Hp super because for how many people pay premium for the ultra wasn’t worth it. There super is FD rated. ( not %100 sold on the truth of the matter) but it would make sense ultra would be better than super."


🤷‍♂️
 
I love this thread! This type of thread has convinced me many years ago of just mixing all of the 2 cycle oil I have and any I can get cheap at garage sales and auctions together. Blend it, filter it and mix with ethanol free gas at 3oz per gallon. It is environmentally irresponsible at any time to dispose of purchased 2 cycle oil in a land fill because it does not meet JASO FD certification. If you bought it use it and move on. I love oil threads!
Yer a sick puppy! 😂
 
Stihl hp ultra at its finest... blocking screens in equipment everywhere. BTW this was all 50 to 1 non ethanol, and a very low hr blower. 100% typical to see.
Hp ultra was designed for the 4 mix engine not 2 strokes. The biodegradable feature is a marketing hype, nothing more or less. Lost of places that sell oil can claim they meet certain standards, the facts are hp ultra meets fb and not fd.
 

Attachments

  • 20230121_151525.jpg
    20230121_151525.jpg
    1.6 MB
  • 20230121_151529.jpg
    20230121_151529.jpg
    1.6 MB
BS. Ultra is a FB quality boat oil. Essentially your paying top dollar for a mediocre oil of early 1980's quality.
Have you run motomix? As you know, a lot of the residue is from the fuel, not the oil. Motomix being an alkylate petrol, burns incredibly cleanly even with Stihls FB oil.

I agree that stihl ultra oil is notably dirty when burnt in petrol station fuel and is disgustingly over priced, but I disagree that motomix burns dirty - it doesn’t. It’s not a boat oil, it’s an air cooled oil and to say “FB quality” as if it’s always bad, is wrong. Rogue and trains, have proven after years of use, good quality made FB oils like Castrol offer, that have been run in well tuned engines, burn very cleanly.
 
The key to storing ethanol is to store it in an air tight metal can so it never comes in contact with the outside air. You also should keep the can full "when possible"
I only use E free fuel in things that will sit with fuel in the tank all the time. Like my generator. Everything else gets ran till it runs out of fuel leaving minimal fuel residue in the fuel system. Some newer saws have electronic ignition so it can self adjust so octane ratings are not critical anymore.
As you can see by my thumb nail pic, I have race bikes and they all run on high octane fuel. I run them anywhere from 105 octane all the way up to 120 octane depending on witch bike it is and what compression it's running.
I have tried running 120 octane race fuel in my saw and while technically anything over 93 octane is wasted. However I did notice a marked increase in power when running 120 octane.
Normally I just run regular 89 pump gas because I always run my saws till they are empty.
 
So Lets break this down as there is multiple pieces of information flying around here:

WHY?!?!?! Why would he NOT use Husky Premix? Was Husky premix ONLY designed for Husqvarna Chainsaws? Does Husqvarna have some sort of proprietary Piston/Cylinder/Premix equation that will cause failure if interchanged? The answer is no, that's plain silly.

The downfall to ethanol fuel is it's hygroscopic, meaning its absorbs water from the atmosphere. its not a shark, its doesn't "eat seals", its simply does not store well. TRILLIONS of successful hours have been ran on chainsaws with ethanol pump gas fuel in them.

When he says "it would never spend enough time in a saw to make a difference"...He is right...IF he is right. Is the fuel spending time in the saw? if your ripping cord wood all day that saw is getting fueled 4-5 times during the day, is the fuel spending much time in the saw? Or is it a cut a tree and to the shed it goes type of scenario?


So i think you need to decide what your fuel plan should be.
Constant use(saw does not spend time in storage) = pump gas
Occasional use(stored frequently) = Canned or ethanol free

Unless your saw is "built"(optimized compression) 87 will work 100% fine. If you are going to sleep better spending another 2$ to get 93, go ahead. its not going to "hurt anything"(expect for another forum members feelings)

Oil: wont even go down this path, run what's been working for you.
People obsess over FB, FD, most don't even know what it actually stands for.
These are chainsaws, not a 10,000$ built SX300 racebike
This is the definitive and universal answer to the question. Now, can we please close the thread? Far too many keyboard warriors jump on the band wagon..........with an opinion thats not qualified. Good Job BWalker!
 
I have repaired enough saws now to know that modern/ethanol fuel is BAD for two strokes. Yes you could use premix the whole time, but it is at least twice the price. However that saving could easily be wiped out if you have to pay for expensive repairs. If you are moderately handy, can clean carbs and check fuel lines etc, the economic case may be less clear. All good advice here about storage of pump fuel and using fresh fuel etc. I use premix for infrequently used machines, but pump fuel when I have a lot of work to do. I buy 35 litres of ethanol-free when I know I am driving past the right pump.

One topic that has not been mentioned is air quality and your health - the modern additives and aromatics in pump fuel are not good for you and cause headaches. So if I will be right next to the engine (e.g. occasional chainsaw milling) I will use premix. Weedwacking / strimming does not seem as bad because the fumes are behind you.
 
Never have so many argued about so little. Meanwhile my quart glass jar tells me the story.
Yes, arguments about which two stroke oil are pretty pointless and hard to prove. Its all just slinging mud. All I can say is I've always stayed away from anything synthetic, biodegradeable or designed for boats. However problems from ethanol and modern fuel are very real.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top