Mine started a mechanical nightmare like that back in 2004..and then progressed into a real mess. (I have a 2000 Durango w/ 360)
Those transmissions were notorious for issues. To cut to the quick. Their oil pumps don't have enough oil pressure & capacity to handle all the clutch packs. Especially when in reverse. They typically score bearings a little & then the pressure drops a little each time they get scored more..and they get erratic as the operating pressure is borderline. Works better cold when oil is a little thick as compared to warm. This also thows a shop as when they do pressure checks, usually in the beginning of the "melt down" those checks are done without a fully warmed transmission.
Mine did as yours is right now back in 2004. So my dealer started with the typical stuff they could get to..all the way from the governor soleniod and pressure transducer to a new valve body.....and while they were spending time and money there..it would be better for a week or two..then the engine light would turn on...and then shifting issues would return again a few weeks later. They even replaced the torque converter and that gave me a couple of months! This went on for an entire summer, fall and into the winter.
Finally on a really cold night going to work..it just stuck & litteraly broke the torque converter (the NEW one) I ran it a full throttle to finish the trip to work..and then it had to be towed...and then they tore the entire transmission down and found the problem...scored bearings.
In retrospect..I should have listened to the mechanic in our shop..You can ltterally kill them by going backwards for a period of time..plowing long parking lots on a cold day kills them quick.
When they "stick" and take out the torque converter .. they throw a mechanic off the scent...and the typical tranny shop will replace that and it will work for a bit...then get erratic again....because they didn't get to the "lower" pressure issue from scored bearing at the rear of the transmission.
Where I work I've seem them die in one snow storm. My Durango has lasted since 2004 when it was finally fixed by following what our shop mechanic recommended...
Once you see and understand, you can make them last. (ONCE rebuilt)
1) Stay out of reverse as much as possible..and if you HAVE to be in reverse, do so with as little stress as possible.
2) Keep that tranny out of overdrive on really cold days (Sub 10 degrees)
3) Keep it out of OD when towing or pulling long hills.
4) Synthetics helps but doesn't solve the issue.
Sorry...thats the deal.
I have no idea where you got your info,but I certainly do not agree with it. As for the bearing in the rear of the trans,the only bearings are in the OD unit,and they are torrington,and rarely fail at all.
If your statements were correct,it would be impossible for my cummins trans to last 6 yrs plowing without a single issue,I have mine modded,but nothing to the rear of the trans.
As for you saying there isnt enough oil pump to handle all the clutch packs,thats BS.These trannys are simple,in reverse the only things applied are the 3rd gear clutch(front clutch),and the reverse band.Thats it!If the trans is worn out,then by all means it will leak the pressure off and fail.
The oiling works like this in these transmissions:
1st gear is just the rear clutch,nothing else.2nd just applies the front band,while leaving the rear clutch on,3rd applys the front clutch,while overpowering the 2nd band forcing it to release.OD does everything in 3rd,then applies the 4th gear piston,which has to overcome 3rd gear spring pressure,and apply the 4th clutches.So if any gear failed,or excess clutches caused failure it would likely be in OD.This is why the modded diesels slip the transmissions,they have everything applied+lockup,with stock pressures,and a modded cummins will put out 8-900+ft lbs easily at 1700rpm.
The issue with lubrication is well known for years dating back to the original 3 speed torqueflight design,due to lack of oiling in park,there are 2 ways to fix this,either use the parking brake,and N like you would with a manual trans,or install a trans go shift kit,which corrects this by drilling passages to allow some oiling in park.If you put it in N upon the first start every day for 20 seconds,then back out,it will be fine.In order to cool a hot trans after towing,plowing or launchign a boat,just let it idle in N,and it will cool right off,people throw it in park,and stop oiling,and seal off the coolers,then wonder why they die.I'm pretty sure this info is in the owners manual of the trucks,not that anyone reads them.
Reverse is pretty strong in those transmissions,esp the later versions(after 95 or so) with the 3 ring reverse band.
