Proper metering height Walbro WTE carb??

[PV Hiker]

What is the proper arm height for the Walbro WTE carb?

Existing it was about level with the inner bowl sides, not the carb body. Was told to make it just under the carb body height. That is a huge difference than what is existing for a year 2011 carb.

I'm thinking it should be level with the inner bowl surface?

BTW the Walbro "W" tool has no stamp

Thanks

 

[sean donato]

I believe it's set the same as a wt series. 0.065" bellow a straight edge.

 

[PV Hiker]

Thanks Sean!!! I also found this on the net from a board back 2016 where the person was in contact with Walbro and gave this info. Also mentioned that Walbro is working on a new tool, 4 years and no tool yet??

"That would from carburetor body surface to lever and is 0.66mm +-.13mm (approx .026" +-.005") "

 

[sean donato]

There is a new w out. Here's a pic of it.
I just measured the 2 tools. The measurement I gave was for a wt series. The wte measures 0.027"

 

[sean donato]

Sorry should have double checked before I assumed it was the same measurement.

 

[PV Hiker]

Awesome! Thanks for showing the tool and measurements.

 

[SteveSr]

Thanks Sean!!! I also found this on the net from a board back 2016 where the person was in contact with Walbro and gave this info. Also mentioned that Walbro is working on a new tool, 4 years and no tool yet??

"That would from carburetor body surface to lever and is 0.66mm +-.13mm (approx .026" +-.005") "

I was going to mention that the WTE is different than the WT. I think that might have been my post that you found as I remember contacting Walbro about it.

 

[PV Hiker]

@SteveSr I missed yours in the search but found PPETEN website that had person KE4AVB on 1-26-2016 that shared the information.

I used the flat edge of the "W" on the gauge across the carb body and a bent 0.026" feeler gauge sliding it in from the back side and checking for arm movement. Adjusted accordingly.

The Walbro kit for the WTE carb did not have the proper welch plug for the carb. I have a WTE carb and the package has WTE on it you would think the kit has all the proper parts. The rubber "O" ring to replace the "L" needle was not prefect match. That "O" ring just to keep the dirt out?

Stihl must have used Loctite on the needle seat arm screw as it will not come off. Did not want to bugger up the Philips slot any worse than I did, I skipped replacing the needle seat. I could have tried heating up a driver tip and transferred it to the screw to see if it would snap free. Just don't happen to have one of those screws laying around. Pressure test showed it holds fine.

So last nigh after spraying out the carb the saw was hard to keep running but it did tach out at idle speed. This morning it would not run at all and needed to screw the idle in all the way. Must be some junk still in the "L" side. Having a welch plug replacement would have been nice. Sprayed it out again and then soaked it in fuel mix for hours.

Putting it back together used the old rubber "O" ring on the "L" needle. Adjusted the metering lever to 0.026 below carb base. Set the "L" 1 turn out and started and ran fine right away. The carb is in great shape and clean inside as for the 9 years it needed a new diaphragm as the old one was showing age. But holy crap spent way more time doing a simple task. I see why some people just put a whole new carb in, less labor time. I'll see how it runs in the morning. Sorry for the rant.

 

[SteveSr]

The Walbro kit for the WTE carb did not have the proper welch plug for the carb. I have a WTE carb and the package has WTE on it you would think the kit has all the proper parts. The rubber "O" ring to replace the "L" needle was not prefect match. That "O" ring just to keep the dirt out?

The screw "o" rings and accompanying flat washers are designed to seal the screw threads and prevent air leaks that would upset the screw calibrations.

Stihl must have used Loctite on the needle seat arm screw as it will not come off. Did not want to bugger up the Philips slot any worse than I did, I skipped replacing the needle seat. I could have tried heating up a driver tip and transferred it to the screw to see if it would snap free. Just don't happen to have one of those screws laying around. Pressure test showed it holds fine.

I usually put the carb in a small vice to be able to apply sufficient pressure to prevent cam-out. I am also not sire if these are actually philips or the similar pozi-drive (i think?)

So last nigh after spraying out the carb the saw was hard to keep running but it did tach out at idle speed. This morning it would not run at all and needed to screw the idle in all the way. Must be some junk still in the "L" side. Having a welch plug replacement would have been nice. Sprayed it out again and then soaked it in fuel mix for hours.

Welch plugs can leak which will upset the "L" circuit. This is why I usually don't touch them as they will likely leak more if you try to put in a new one without the benefit of factory tooling. I will seal around the edges with thin super glue and wait 48 hours before reassembling to make sure that it is fully cured.

 

[PV Hiker]

As usual thanks @SteveSr for your insights. Ran just dandy this morning and a while ago. Could been crap I lossened with spray in low circuit or the o ring different sized for the L needle. But runs good with new diaphragm, snappy like when the saw was new and starts with less pulls. Friend comming in the morning to buy it and enjoy it.