Pulling limiter caps on 361

[JohnCusickjr]

Can someone advise me just how much of the saw I hav eto disassemble to get these things out.
First I removed the rear cover and air filter thinking I needed to remove the 'rubber'? fitting that the access to the 3 adjusting screws goes through.
That part doesn't seem to want to budge.
SO I left it alone.
I then tried to run the limiter cap removal tool in to grab the cap, twisting counterclockwise-reverse thread. and the only thing I get is red shards of plastic...

Any advise is appreciated.
John

 

[Stihl #1]

The easiest way is to take the carb off, then turn the red cap until you see the little tab line up with the slot. Then screw a drywall screw into the cap carefully and wiggle a little and it will eventually come out. There is a special tool for this from STIHL, that has backwards threads on it and works fairly well, as long as you keep the tab lined up with the slot. Be sure to put them back, if you leave them off the screws may vibrate out of where you set them.

 

[JohnCusickjr]

Thanks for that Stihl #1. That did it.
We'll see tomorrow how she adjusts.

 

[Lakeside53]

The stihl tool turns the cap so the tabs automatically line up with the slots, and then it "jacks" the caps off (NO NEED TO PULL). If you slice of the tab, you can pop them back on and forget them..

 

[THALL10326]

The easiest way is to take the carb off, then turn the red cap until you see the little tab line up with the slot. Then screw a drywall screw into the cap carefully and wiggle a little and it will eventually come out. There is a special tool for this from STIHL, that has backwards threads on it and works fairly well, as long as you keep the tab lined up with the slot. Be sure to put them back, if you leave them off the screws may vibrate out of where you set them.

Perfecto post!!! Thats how I do them too.

 

[JohnCusickjr]

Thanks Andy. I just wasn't aware that the black grommmet/fitting needed to come off first...
Ah, it's an uneasy feeling being on this side of the learning curve again.
Is it necessary to pull back the carb on most saws to get this black thing away form the front of the limiter caps. I'm looking to do the 440 and 460 next.
John

 

[Lakeside53]

Depends on the exact model of the saw. Some go in from the outside, others mount on the carb and then the carb is inserted. Pulling the carb only takes a few seconds anyhow.. take the black rear handle top off first..

 

[JohnCusickjr]

I did the procedure to modify the 361 limiter caps last night, pulling the carb back and such. Went smooth.
Question - do I have to replace the gasket that sits between the carb and intake port when the carb is moved? It all looked mint, no sticking etc. Does it go back together dry?
Today I adjusted the saw after it was warmed up (tached at 14,950 before I adjusted it). Brought it down to 13,750. BOY WHAT A DIFFERENCE in the cut. Lot more guts. I always noticed on this 361 that I had to have a light touch using the 20" setup or it would bog. Now it just runs...
So after my playing around, I grab my second 361 (untouched) and pay a visit to my friendly (I have to give them that) dealer to show them the high WOT setting (this second saw also topped put at 14,800+). THey took the saw from me, started it and in seconds they have it pegged and are holding the tach to it. 13,700. I say ' shouldn't you warm it up first, make a few cuts', Ah it's fine is the reply. WOT again at 13,720 or so. So I ask for the saw back, tell them to give me 5 minutes.
I jump up into the bed of my truck where I just happen to have 6 or so 24" chesnut oak rounds. I roll one to the back and start loppin off cookies. After 6or so cuts I get the attention of my friendly dealer, peg it - 14,800. and just smile. Well they had no idea how to pull the limiter caps, and after I heard them talk about forcing a screwdriver 'in there' and muscling the H setting, I asked for my saw back and realized that I would rather trust myself on this one with the help I get here as opposed to giving my saw to them to practice on. I told them what I was going to do and I'd bring it back for them to see. They agreed.
Interesting.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge Andy & Sthil #1
John

 

[Lakeside53]

What gasket? There should just be a boot and a metal insert ring.

And.. find another dealer..

 

[JohnCusickjr]

Hmmm, could be wrong. Thought I saw something that looked like a metal gasket up against the port. I'll check the second one later tonight.
Re the dealer thing, I wonder if it's just an issue of 'not much sawin going on around here' and the skill to service that is disappearing. Too much lawn cutting...
Thats what I get for heating with wood in Southern CT.

 

[Cut4fun]

What does this tool look like and do you have the part number?

 

[Trigger-Time]

It is sad to say..............but one dealer told me the caps where
to keep people form running the saw to lean.......:bang:

 

[Lakeside53]

What does this tool look like and do you have the part number?

5910 890 4500

 

[Lakeside53]

It is sad to say..............but one dealer told me the caps where
to keep people form running the saw to lean.......:bang:

So sad... but I've heard that on AS too:biggrinbounce2:

 

[Cut4fun]

5910 890 4500

I need a permanent button to push that says THANKS ANDY AGAIN and again and again.

 

[Lakeside53]

Push it again Cut4

Part number - 5910 890 4500

 

[JohnCusickjr]

Oh and by the way, that tool works best when the black thingy is out of the was ( duh John )

 

[RiverRat2]

awww Cut4 sheesh!!!!

I need a permanent button to push that says THANKS ANDY AGAIN and again and again.

Quit suckin up,,,,,, I can see the birds holdin on for dear life from here,,,,,