Question for porting Guru's

[NevadaWalrus]

We're always told not to de-carbon an exhaust port with metal tools because they can scrape off the wrap around chrome plating on the cylinder walls that extends into the port. They tell us if disturbed the chrome plating can continue to flake and be knocked off by the rings and cause damage to the walls.

How do you porters avoid this being a problem or are the warnings a lot of hype.

 

[tony marks]

well nevada.. u are in luck .. im gonna
let somebody else answer .. im a little mouthy tonite .. im on steeroids. .
dang whoda thot they did this..

 

[ehp]

never had a problem
the plating on chainsaw jug is quite soft compared to other type of plating
on the chainsaw all you have to do is make sure you chanfer the ports so you donot hook a ring and the most important port for this is the intake port , now i know the ring doesnot come down that far but your intake skirt does come in to contact with the port and if you have any bad edges on the intake port it will clean out the skirt quickly
so if you do your sanding and make sure your porting job is done right you will have no problems

 

[ehp]

i think you were right on the hype mostly because guys were not cleaning up thr edge of the port and saying you should not touch the crome
now on jugs that you have redid that is a different story
the guy that does my jugs does great work but is his stuff hard
it has to be 2 or 3 times as hard as the oem jug . and if you just go at it this stuff will flake very easily, what i have found you have to port in one derection only because if you port on your way back it seems to lift the metal and it seems to flake quite big
so that means you have to look at your porting tool and figure out what way it is turning , then just make sure you go with the flow and not against it, you just have to take your time

 

[NevadaWalrus]

Thanks EHP. Not planning on doing any port work myself, just currious how critical or should I say prone to damage the chrome really is. It got me to wondering how porters dealt with it. The chamfering makes sense but there still would be that "edge" where the chrome begins. I supose it takes a much practiced touch to get the transition as smooth as possible to minimize complications.

One thing you said though really woke me up to something else. Like I said I don't plan on porting but I do get out the die grinder from time to time to open up something. It always aggravates me when it all seems to be going smoothly and all of a sudden starts to chatter and jump all over the place. Your comment about going in one direction, yeah, I'll bet when changing directions is when that chattering starts. Next time using the die grinder I'll make a point of going one way and see if that corrects the condition.

 

[ehp]

one otherthing i guess i should tellyou is watch when you hog out your transfer port , you will find one side is very easy but the otherside your porting tool will want to walk out of the port on to your nice crome finish of your jug ,just think on what way your tool is turning and you will see whatside you have to be very carefull on or if you are putting a head on your saw just come from the top when doing that side

 

[Dennis]

While I don't fall into the "guru" category....

Ed, I know exactly what you mean about that tool wanting to walk across the wall...fortunately I have a dental drill that is reversible and helps alleviate that problem. I have heard of a couple of cases and had one myself...where the cylinder plating would just chip off in big flakes everytime you looked sideways at it....i talked to the Husky warranty guys in Charlotte, and they let me send it in and gave me full warranty...as well, the fellow I was dealing with had built many a saw himself so we talked for a good amount of time....

As far as rings catching, I have been lucky....only caught a few in the early days and learned early (with help of KD) that a good chamfer alleviates that problem.

 

[ehp]

i had one dental 90 degree head but it broke so i went and bought the good but small 90 degree heads for my foredom porter
the only time i get into watching the surface i use a 90 degree head that takes away any chance of screwing up
i liked the dental tool because it was so small to get into those tight places but my one hand 90 degree piece is only 7/8 of a inch long and has bearings that seem to handle the heavy work load plus it does make a difference on what kind of burrs you use
i was using burrs from KBC but have found alot better burr from a steel company up here they are carbide like the ones fromKBC and cost 4 times as much but do alot better job and last longer

 

[Dennis]

I have a "shorty" dental drill with the RA (right angle) head on it from New England Handpiece..(thanks to dbabcock and his connections) .I purchased a bunch of different types of RA bits when I got it...I got them from Braaseller(sp?)....about 5 bucks apiece..diamond tipped....they do well with the cylinder walls...although I wish I had a bit better reach with it...about a half inch inside the transfers easily...the rest I have to work for...it isn't fast...but it is easy to work with...
I did break this one as well, working it too hard...but New England Handpiece was good with the part and had it shipped out very quickly...
I have an air dremel with carbides for the grunt work...

 

[ehp]

i tried the diamond bits but didnot like them at all
the burrs i am using right now cost me 48 dollars a piece if you buy a set but i like them alot so i will pay more for them
i have only broke the one dental hand piece
the other type seems good so far

 

[Dennis Cahoon]

ehp, my 90 degree handpiece is expandable and will take a right and left hand cutter, which will let you make a climbing cut. Keeping your cutter moving in the climbing direction will help you keep more control and hopefully not zip across your chrome.

 

[ehp]

i do not seem to have a problem of climbing out .
once i use my 90 degree problem gone

 

[bwalker]

In regards to te original question. Oven cleaner wroks very well for removing carbon without having to scrape it loose. Mecury marine power tune works good as well.