Question for pros

[bugfart]

A lot has been said about bar length mostly not reccommending manufacturers maximum bar length. But if you didn't have to cut that width very often, does a 24" bar not sound better should you encounter that 20" tree?

Thanks for your time.

 

[DanManofStihl]

I like to use a bar that is longer then the tree I am cutting I don't like having to walk around to the other side. I don't mind a long bar as long as the saw can pull it.

 

[Justin Garrison]

I am by no means a pro, but you are the only one who knows what you need if you need a 24" than get a 24 inch. It is possible to cut 40" with a 20" though. I would rather just have a bar that gets the job done for bucking though. The smaller the bar the fatser the cut so don't overkill it for no reason. Right?

 

[skwerl]

Your question is nonsensical. It is like asking what size tires are best without qualifying what vehicle they will go on. Tires that are perfect for a 4X4 pickup will not work well on a sports car. Using the same reasoning we cannot determine what size bar is best without qualifying the work to be performed and the saw to be used.

What saws do you own?

 

[kf_tree]

i prefer a bar a little longer that the wood i'm cutting......the main reason is when i'm belted to a stick standing on spike's, i want to stay in one spot and pass the saw through. instead of moving and walking the bar around. but i also go out with a truck load of saw's and spare bar's.

if i only owned 1 or 2 saw's then i guess i would own a couple of spare bars.

 

[kf_tree]

Your question is nonsensical.

skwerl

there are no ignorant questions, the person that does not ask questions is ignorant.

 

[Dadatwins]

A lot has been said about bar length mostly not reccommending manufacturers maximum bar length. But if you didn't have to cut that width very often, does a 24" bar not sound better should you encounter that 20" tree?

It sounds like you are trying to justify keeping a 24" bar on the saw all the time and there really is no solid answer. You can cut a 40 - 50" tree with an 18" bar if you had to and knew how, but that does not mean I am going to do it if I had other options. Need to know what saws do you have, what is the average diameter of tree you are cutting, what type of trees they are, and maybe you can get some better answers to the question.

 

[DanManofStihl]

I usually cut everything with a 20 or 24 inch bar 20 in on my 361 and a 24 in on my ms 440. For some reason I usually keep a 20 in bar on my 066 mag. It is just more fun that way.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

I run a 32" bar sometimes a 36". I cut bigger trees than many, just because it is my job. I also limb and buck everything I fall and I could not fatham limbing with anything shorter than a 32". Even if I were just cutting firewood no matter how big or small I would rather run a longer bar. Less work - meaning dogging in your saw while not having to bend over. But, run what your saw will handle. My saws are are modified so power is never an issue.
Tree Sling'r.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

No Pro here, but I think the 24" bar is a good all around size for decent size saws saw. I'm talking about saws over 50-60cc. what do you guys think?
Also, I mostly cut fir, alder and soft maple.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Your question is nonsensical.

The only stupic, or nonsensical, question is the one that doesn't get asked.

What's the purpose of having a discussion forum if people don't discuss?

When I make a purchase I try to aim for the 80th percentile point. Will the purchase work at the 80th PP 80% of the time. By spending more money I can get a higher return but is that necessary? Hitting the 80/80 sets the value point for me.

Nothing wrong with having long bars on saws as long as you can keep the rpms up. If you do occasional bigwood but mostly smaller, you might like the longer bar.

 

[bump_r]

Sounds to me like the 24 inch bar versus the 20 inch tree is a "fer-instance" to illustrate the question. From that, it looks like he got the answer of "get a bar a bit longer than the wood you plan to encounter, but don't simply get the longest one reccommended by the manufacturer." That answer makes sense. Overkill is overkill. Adds stress, cost, and weight, and reduces efficiency. It's a simple case of getting the right tool for the job. You wouldn't use a hand-sledge to drive a 16d nail, wouldja?

A bar that extends beyond the cut should also aid in chip clearing and nose cooling - both good when you get into the oak and locust.

I'd bet that the advertised maximum bar length for some saws contain some element of "marketing license", as well. Take it with a grain of salt - especially if you encounter hardwoods.

Werd yo!

OH! WAIT! I'm not a pro, nevermind this post. Carry on.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

bugfart, it depends on what the diameter/size of the wood you're cutting consistently is. If a 24" tree is the exception, and not the rule, you don't need a 24" bar. I also like the bar to match the tree, and be as long, or a bit longer than the tree is wide-it's the root of the West Coast long bar/full wrap handle bar mentality. But, as has been said, you can fall a 40" tree with a 20" bar. Base your bar on your normal needs.

All of this of course, relying on your saw being able to pull said bar and chain through said wood.

Jeff

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Too long a bar is heavier than it needs to be, and harder to move around. It also takes more power to run the longer chain. In effect, it's slower and harder to use.
One move I like to make quite often is to hold the power head up and have the bar straight down, while I cut with the top of the bar. As the saw cuts the weight of the motor counters the push of the chain and gives me a little break. A bar over 24" makes this hard to do.
Putting too long a bar, or too big a chain pitch, can really slow down too small a saw.

Too short a bar is a problem too. For me a 20" bar means a lot of bending over, which is hard on the back. It also means logs over about 18" are a problem.

 

[redprospector]

Overkill is overkill. Adds stress, cost, and weight, and reduces efficiency. It's a simple case of getting the right tool for the job. You wouldn't use a hand-sledge to drive a 16d nail, wouldja?

Personally I like overkill. A .22 LR will kill a deer, but I like to carry a .270 Wby Mag.
I think a person should use the bar leingth they are comfortable with, as long as the saw will pull it.

Andy

 

[pbtree]

I agree with a number of views...condensed as follows:

1. I like to match the bar length to the average diameter I am cutting.
2. A longer bar is not needed, and is extra weight and drag I do not need unless, well, needed!
3. Knowing what saw you are running, as well as more info on the wood type, would no doubt grant you more precise advice that the general ones posted thusfar...

 

[davidwyby]

I liked the idea about having the sprocket outta the wood for cooling, etc. How much truth is there to it? Makes quite a bit of sense to me.

I've asked this before in one of my threads and have not gotten much response.

What kind of ratios do you like for bar length? As in, cc to length or hp to length or cid to length, whatever.

Gonna whip up a chart or something on manufacturer's recs.

 

[davidwyby]

ALL NUMBER SHOULD BE MANUFACTURER'S.

SAW HP MAX BAR INCH/HP RATIO

HUSQVARNA



340 2.7 18" 6.7
345 3.0 18" 6
346 3.4 20" 5.88
570XP 4.9 32" 6.5
575XP 5.4 34" 6.3
385XP 6.2 28" 4.5
395XP 7.1 36" 5
3120XP 8.4 42" 5

JONSERED

2171 5.3 32" 6
2186 6.1 36" 5.9


STIHL

046 6.0 32" 5.3
066 7.0 36" 5.14
460 6.0 32" 5.3
650 6.4 36" 5.6
660 7.0 36" 5.14

MIN BAR LENGTH RATIOS RUN ABOUT 2.5 TO 3.5

This prolly isn't all dead accurate or orderly

 

[Lakeside53]

I liked the idea about having the sprocket outta the wood for cooling, etc. How much truth is there to it? Makes quite a bit of sense to me.

I've asked this before in one of my threads and have not gotten much response.

What kind of ratios do you like for bar length? As in, cc to length or hp to length or cid to length, whatever.

Gonna whip up a chart or something on manufacturer's recs.

I've never had a problem with sprocket tips getting "hot" on Stihl bars and Stihl chains. Stihl doens't even bother to put a grease hole at the sprocket - the stihl chains have a groove to carry oil forward.