Quick and simple milling rails

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Yeah I run full comp for the same reasons you stated.

However, I have a 660 on the way and may be using it for milling some hard 30+ inch slabs and am considering using a skip
 
I know this is a old thread. But do you have any pictures of the rail on the log? Would like to see how you level and mount it. Thanks
 
When using the ladder type rails I tekscrew a board onto one end of the log and lay the frame onto the log/board and then use wedges to level the ladder using a a DAF (see below) and then TekScrew the other board on the other end.
JoBlake.jpg
Hudmillar.jpg
This are my HD unistrut rails - same method but don't worry about the end boards, the pointed bolts in the cross angle bite straight into the end of the log.
layout.jpg


wixey0a.jpg

I level the rails using a digital angle finder (DAF).
Set zero at one end and then make sure its zero at the other - use wedges to lift the low side and then tighten th spouted bolts up.
I used to use a pice of Al across the rails but now I just place the DAF on the Cross Angle.

I use the rails on most cuts as my mill rails are HDPE lined and slide real nicel on the Unistrut.
That ws I can correct for any slight twis caused from the previous cut.
 
When using the ladder type rails I tekscrew a board onto one end of the log and lay the frame onto the log/board and then use wedges to level the ladder using a a DAF (see below) and then TekScrew the other board on the other end.
View attachment 828575
View attachment 828576
This are my HD unistrut rails - same method but don't worry about the end boards, the pointed bolts in the cross angle bite straight into the end of the log.
View attachment 828577


View attachment 828578

I level the rails using a digital angle finder (DAF).
Set zero at one end and then make sure its zero at the other - use wedges to lift the low side and then tighten th spouted bolts up.
I used to use a pice of Al across the rails but now I just place the DAF on the Cross Angle.

I use the rails on most cuts as my mill rails are HDPE lined and slide real nicel on the Unistrut.
That ws I can correct for any slight twis caused from the previous cut.
Is that a large snake in the first pic?
 
I first posted that pick in 2009 and got a heap of responses about it.

There are LOTS of Tiger and Dugite snakes in the are where I was milling that log but that snake is a fake that my mate was using to try and train his dog out of bringing dead snakes back to the house, - he did not have any luck and eventually it must have got bitten as it disappeared Tigers and Dugites look nothing like that. Both snakes are highly poisonous, the Tiger is the 10th most poisonous snake in the world. Most Aussie snakes are highly sensitive to and scared of noise and will quickly slither away as you stumble through their territory. At the sound of a CS they keep right away and that is why timber fallers don't see many or get bitten during their work. The danger comes when you threaten one or accidentally tread on one and then they will bite you . In Oz, about 300 people a year get bitten but only about 2 persons year die, compared with 11,000 a year in India and about 5 in the US. In Australian you are 5X more likely to be killed by a lightening strike than a snake bite
 
I first posted that pick in 2009 and got a heap of responses about it.

There are LOTS of Tiger and Dugite snakes in the are where I was milling that log but that snake is a fake that my mate was using to try and train his dog out of bringing dead snakes back to the house, - he did not have any luck and eventually it must have got bitten as it disappeared Tigers and Dugites look nothing like that. Both snakes are highly poisonous, the Tiger is the 10th most poisonous snake in the world. Most Aussie snakes are highly sensitive to and scared of noise and will quickly slither away as you stumble through their territory. At the sound of a CS they keep right away and that is why timber fallers don't see many or get bitten during their work. The danger comes when you threaten one or accidentally tread on one and then they will bite you . In Oz, about 300 people a year get bitten but only about 2 persons year die, compared with 11,000 a year in India and about 5 in the US. In Australian you are 5X more likely to be killed by a lightening strike than a snake bite

I've always envied the nice and sunny conditions at the other side of the world. However the most dangerous creatures in the wild life here is.. not lethal.
Of course there is the extremely shy bear with cubs or a horny moose... the snake bite would be similar to a wasp. No big hardwood trees though.
 
I've always envied the nice and sunny conditions at the other side of the world. However the most dangerous creatures in the wild life here is.. not lethal.
Of course there is the extremely shy bear with cubs or a horny moose... the snake bite would be similar to a wasp. No big hardwood trees though.
The most dangerous creatures in most places are fellow humans.
 
I didn't notice any difference in cutting speed or cut smoothness over full comp chain.
I think it would come into its own on really wide cuts in hard wood as it would ease the load on the saw.
Its very quick to sharpen but then I also reckon it goes blunter quicker than full comp.
I used regular skip chain for about 30 logs but since then I have stuck with full comp
Great mods and good for you helping out a mate there.
And as always, we find your knowledge and ingenuity very helpful and useful in our own set-ups.
Thanks again from way up here in Canada.
Take care Bob.
 
Nice work!
I started with a ladder, went away from the ladder, now im back to the ladder system...

The one thing that stands out with your ladder, from what im seeing, is that the rungs do not protrude out the sides enough to interfere with the vertical poles of the mill. makes it much easier for you
 
Thanks to this thread, got the inspiration to build something similar today...

Previously I'd just screw the rungs directly to a flat face of the tree, but having milled some blackwoods recently that were dowel-round, it took me forever to set up the first cut so decided to build this so didn't require a squarish face to work off

Stainless brackets, shinier than they need to be but came out nice

IMG_20200614_173353.jpg

6mm alu angle:

IMG_20200614_173445.jpg

Not buttoned up in this pic, but all done

IMG_20200614_173537.jpg
 

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