Last night and today we have very high winds and it is -3 f right now. My woodmaster sits out in the open where the wind hits it directly. My question is, would a rain cap or chimney cap help with slowing the wind that's going down my chimney and allow me to get more of a burn time? If it is just cold no wind I can easily get 12 hrs burn time without even filling it all the way up. I filled it clear full last night before bed and at 7:30 this morning I went out and the water temp was 97 degrees. :censored: Thanks for the help.
Rain Cap?
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J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
7ft wood stack @north and west corners might help some
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
The burning faster was not caused by the wind
Otherwise your boiler temps would be high? To me it seems the reason you ran out of wood is. The House is calling for more heat cause it is -3 degrees out.
Basically your house needed more btus last night than you had pounds of wood in the boiler for.
So the damper was open due to the call for heat. Or blower was running whichever your owb has.
Otherwise your boiler temps would be high? To me it seems the reason you ran out of wood is. The House is calling for more heat cause it is -3 degrees out.
Basically your house needed more btus last night than you had pounds of wood in the boiler for.
So the damper was open due to the call for heat. Or blower was running whichever your owb has.
Sawmill
ArboristSite Operative
A couple of things to check. Check the damper door to make sure it is closing when the blower shuts off. and check your door gasket. What kind of wood are you burning? I have a Woodmaster and it sits on the north side of the house so it gets hit by the winds from the west and the north. I am burning poplar and maple and the temps here yesterday morning was -10 and it never got out of the single numbers all day and my burn time was 12 hrs and I still had wood left in the stove when I filled it. If you put a rain camp on it keep close watch for the black goop dripping off of it as it will eat a hole in your roof. Another thing is when your blower shuts off wait a while and go out and open the door to make sure the fire died down.
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J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
this is good advice
oneoldbanjo
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have seen several people claim they use more wood when it is windy than when it is not. I am not sure if this is a function of the OWB or the fact that there house is not well sealed and more heat is needed. My wood consumption does not seem to be affected much by the wind. I have an extra 4 foot extension on my stack and that may help with not making the draft different when the wind is blowing.
beerman6
Addicted to ArboristSite
I know my house is poorly insulated,the west wall is waaaayyyy colder than any other one.
I think that with a OWB being,well OUTSIDE the wind will cool the water box faster than a calm day would.
I think that with a OWB being,well OUTSIDE the wind will cool the water box faster than a calm day would.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I checked the door gasket, it looks fine no smoke coming from the door, the shutter/door is closing, when I open the door when the fan is cycled off the wood is just smoldering with the coals not turning red until I open the door and the wind hits it. It's probably is just the colder weather and the house sucking up the btu's. The house is only a year old but our windows are terrible. (It has been a year long battle with the window company so far) I have the thermostat set at 72 and it hasn't gotten above 68 so far in the house today. :censored: Everytime I walk around the house and feel the "breeze" coming through the windows I get more and more pissed. It just hasn't been this cold yet since I've had the OWB and I'm not use to it going through wood quite this fast. Uh, I'm going to go get a beer........after I load the wood burner....... again....... 
beerman6
Addicted to ArboristSite
The only place I dont feel wind is from the windows.
Well beerman, I know you don't have Alside windows then.
It has seriously turned into a joke. The warranty rep is coming out again tomorrow. Turning the question to you, what kind of windows do you have? I'm definately in the market. Maybe I should have used my $8000 for the OWB for new windows, but I didn't think I would have to think about new windows for the next oh, twenty or thirty years. 
i'mstihlaguy
ArboristSite Operative
Don't replace them with Caradco by Jeld-Wen. Mine are only a year old but they leaked air where the top sash meets the jamb from day one. Had to put extra weather stripping in there. Still not happy with the windows as they have other problems. If I had it to do over again, I would have gone with casement windows from Anderson.
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Mine are vinyl double hung, my parents have wood double hung Pellas. I should have just gone with Pella from the get go. They are made in Iowa too. My parents live next door and have no problems what so ever. Mine don't leak where the sashes meet but along the sides of the windows, it's like the window frame is to big for the sashes. The window company has already replaced the sashes once.
Just reread your post, that is where mine are leaking as well, At one point it would even blow a lighter out when the wind was strong enough.
Just reread your post, that is where mine are leaking as well, At one point it would even blow a lighter out when the wind was strong enough.
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i'mstihlaguy
ArboristSite Operative
They replaced the sashes once and they still leak? I can't remember if the Lemon law applies after the first or second attemp to correct the problem. Probably the second. I would check it out. Pellas are good, ask them to replace them with Pellas. 
November Wolf
ArboristSite Operative
All of my windows are Anderson. Most are double hung and 2 are casement. They are 14 years old and not a single problem.
beerman6
Addicted to ArboristSite
I dont remember what we bought.I'll have to ask the wife and get back to ya.Most of my cold air seems to be coming in the electric boxes(switches,plugs)I'm hoping we will get new siding this spring along with new insulation and a house wrap.
Sawmill
ArboristSite Operative
One more thought, are you sure that your heat exchanger is big enough for the area you are trying to heat. If it is not that will cause your furnace to run more than it needs to and use more wood.
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
what series of window from Alside?
I used to sell and install a lot of Alside windows.But I wanted to sell a better glass package such as triple with super spacer and krypton gas.. Alside did not offer anything with Krypton.As far as Pella and Andersen windows. Their glass package is no better than anything offered from Alside.
They both use a Intercept spacer from PPG and argon gas fill. Best R value they offer is an R 4. I am almost 99% sure that neither even offers up a triple pane.
If you are looking for the best bang for your buck window Look for a non conductive glass spacer.Be it super spacer, or squiggle or tsp spacer. Look for triple with Krypton gas. With two layers of soft coat lo-e film.(These bounce the heat in for winter and out for summer. If you can only swing a double pane window. Look for single layer of lo e and argon gas fill. Krypton is the best for triple pane(it does not work as well in a big wide space). Argon is 30% less efficient over Krypton in a triple pane glass pack.
I used to sell and install a lot of Alside windows.But I wanted to sell a better glass package such as triple with super spacer and krypton gas.. Alside did not offer anything with Krypton.As far as Pella and Andersen windows. Their glass package is no better than anything offered from Alside.
They both use a Intercept spacer from PPG and argon gas fill. Best R value they offer is an R 4. I am almost 99% sure that neither even offers up a triple pane.
If you are looking for the best bang for your buck window Look for a non conductive glass spacer.Be it super spacer, or squiggle or tsp spacer. Look for triple with Krypton gas. With two layers of soft coat lo-e film.(These bounce the heat in for winter and out for summer. If you can only swing a double pane window. Look for single layer of lo e and argon gas fill. Krypton is the best for triple pane(it does not work as well in a big wide space). Argon is 30% less efficient over Krypton in a triple pane glass pack.
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
My thoughts
He said his water temp was down to 97. So that is telling me his boiler needed fed in the middle of the night. His HX used up more heat than his boiler could produce on the amount of fuel it had.
He said his water temp was down to 97. So that is telling me his boiler needed fed in the middle of the night. His HX used up more heat than his boiler could produce on the amount of fuel it had.
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe not the manufacturers fault.
Where are the windows leaking air? Are you sure the windows are Lo-e and argon filled? Or just cheap plain ole double pane clear glass no argon?
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I checked the door gasket, it looks fine no smoke coming from the door, the shutter/door is closing, when I open the door when the fan is cycled off the wood is just smoldering with the coals not turning red until I open the door and the wind hits it. It's probably is just the colder weather and the house sucking up the btu's. The house is only a year old but our windows are terrible. (It has been a year long battle with the window company so far) I have the thermostat set at 72 and it hasn't gotten above 68 so far in the house today. :censored: Everytime I walk around the house and feel the "breeze" coming through the windows I get more and more pissed. It just hasn't been this cold yet since I've had the OWB and I'm not use to it going through wood quite this fast. Uh, I'm going to go get a beer........after I load the wood burner....... again.......
Where are the windows leaking air? Are you sure the windows are Lo-e and argon filled? Or just cheap plain ole double pane clear glass no argon?
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