Rebuild ms 650 (again) or just buy new saw??

[Justsaws]

The 650 is a 660 with a smaller piston and cylinder, so if you want a 660 all you need to do is purchase a 660 P/C.

As mentioned before, isolate the reason for the failure before taking the saw apart.

I use 660s for milling, stock except for dual port muffler cover. I also use E-10 as it is what is available.

If you are going to continue milling than the other saws that you mentioned are a step backwards.

The 650/660 is a very simple saw to work on, it is also a fairly common saw so parts are plentiful. I would encourage you to give it a try from diagnosis to rebuild.

 

[Pete Moss]

No, a compression tester and a vacuum tester are completely different things. A compression test is done to verify the rings are sealing well enough against the jug. A vacuum and pressure test put positive or negative pressure on the crankcase to find air leaks.

Gotcha. This is what I learned today, and am a better human for it!

 

[Pete Moss]

Click it, and read up a little bit...


http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/42768.htm

Nice write-up!

 

[Pete Moss]

I use E10 exclusively and it isn't the boogeyman it's made out to be.



Yes, long cuts at high RPM, with the added dust.




It should have been done by the dealer the first time, but many don't know how or want to take the time to do so.


The first failure could have been caused by several factors. The second time could have been caused by those factors with the added cause of inadequate clean up of the cylinder in the first failure.

I want to see the piston and cylinder...it will likely tell the story.

SO my project for the next few days is to vacuum test the saw, also to try dismantling with some decent pics of the piston, cylinder and anything else that appears interesting. Thanks for all the info, this seems like a great site!

 

[nmurph]

Yes, the only tool you will need right now that you may not have it a T27 T-handle. Otherwise, a screwdriver, pliers, an 8mm (I think that is the size) nut driver or wrench is all you need.

Someone, send him a link to a 660 SM.

I suggest you take lots of pics as you disassemble the saw. Things look a lot different going back together than what you remember.

 

[treeslayer2003]

I run e-10 every day with no probs. i have always run stihl mix at 40-1. ya may need richer for milling idk, milling guys here should know that.

 

[Trailtrimmer]

How soon after it was adjusted did it melt down?

 

[psuiewalsh]

064 manual sent PM should be good enough to start

 

[struggle]

E-10 run everyday is a lot different than run occasuionally which is what a lot of saws fall under as occasional use.

I'm still sticking with milling (stock unopend up muffler) and less than top notch fuel is what added up to the saws demise.

 

[Pete Moss]

How soon after it was adjusted did it melt down?

The very same tank of gas(!). Kind of suspicious to me...

 

[Frogfarmer]

I am all for the pressure/vacuum test and rebuild at this point but if the OP does not know how to tune a saw it will have problems again. I dont have any links to tuning threads but that is the most important part of keeping a saw going. I have saws that run fine on my mix but not the same on someone elses mix. The fact he took it to the dealer to have it tuned sent a flag up for me. I have bought several new saws and they go through the usual run it 10hrs and bring it back so we can set the carb. Yeh its free and if they do it right all is well but if they lean it out you are doomed. None of my new saws ever went back for the Stihl Tech Carb Adjust. Also in my limited milling I have the saw set rich so when the heat builds it still has enough fuel it doesnt lean out in the cut.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

064, 066 SM
064, 066 SM.pdf

066 IPL
066 - 1122.pdf

 

[nmurph]

064, 066 SM
064, 066 SM.pdf

066 IPL
066 - 1122.pdf

But those don't have flippy caps???????????:bang:

 

[griffonks]

The very same tank of gas(!). Kind of suspicious to me...

I would be suspicious too. Take a search for carb tuning to see if your saw sounded right in the crosscut after the dealer adjusted it. I know it's not fool proof, but you need to know how to tune it anyway. I'm sorry you lost your saw....

 

[Pete Moss]

064, 066 SM
064, 066 SM.pdf

066 IPL
066 - 1122.pdf

Thanks!
(Was just up in the Adirondaks around Elizabethtown, very pretty up there!)

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Thanks!
(Was just up in the Adirondaks around Elizabethtown, very pretty up there!)

You were very close. I live and work just north of there.

 

[Trailtrimmer]

I would be suspicious too. Take a search for carb tuning to see if your saw sounded right in the crosscut after the dealer adjusted it. I know it's not fool proof, but you need to know how to tune it anyway. I'm sorry you lost your saw....

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the dealer adjust it last? Saw ran fine, dealer messed with it, saw broke. The rebuild should be on them.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the dealer adjust it last? Saw ran fine, dealer messed with it, saw broke. The rebuild should be on them.

Good luck with that:msp_thumbdn:The dealer has already told the OP it's a piece of junk and wants to sell him new saw.Fat chance of him owning up to leaning the saw out,and or not following proper proceedure when they "fixed" it last piston/cyl ago.
Time to quit dealing with that guy.
Thomas

 

[Trailtrimmer]

Good luck with that:msp_thumbdn:The dealer has already told the OP it's a piece of junk and wants to sell him new saw.Fat chance of him owning up to leaning the saw out,and or not following proper proceedure when they "fixed" it last piston/cyl ago.
Time to quit dealing with that guy.
Thomas

A summons to small claims court can fix lots of things.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

A summons to small claims court can fix lots of things.

The cost would exceed the price of the saw