rebuilt 090 idles, but wont scream

[Big feller]

Further information from the Tillotson website:

For HL112c the kits are:

DG-5HL Diaphragm gasket kit

RK-32HK Repair kit.

The only reference I can see to the 090 is that the 090AVR has HL324A carb so maybe that's another option.

Big feller.

 

[Grande Dog]

090'S have governors on them and it'll never go past about 8400 rpm's without making the governor inoperative.

 

[mackie]

right now i cant get it to do 1000 rpm's. thanks for all the info, i'll let you know how it turns out, probably will be a couple weeks.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

right now i cant get it to do 1000 rpm's. thanks for all the info, i'll let you know how it turns out, probably will be a couple weeks.

This is something I was looking for, Wont scream or wont go much above idle.

Does it gust go BBBBBBuuuuuhhhhh (kind of make more noise without making more revs) when you pull the trigger?


And if so, Did those Monkeys at the shop Monkey with the points?

I have a new to me Echo cs-302, near mint condition that I thought had a carb problem. It started easy but wouldnt go above idle, just made that funky noise.

I looked over/cleaned the carb four times, and it was perfect. Checked compression and cylinder condition(piston port), Minty fresh. WTF?

As a last ditch effort I decided to clean/check the points and as soon as I peeked in there I new I found the problem.

Someone had maladjusted the points to .035 rather than .015 :monkey:

Buttoned her up and she sprang to life and cuts very well for a 30cc saw.

Just thought Id throw this out there.

Ya never know.....

 

[sugarbush]

right now i cant get it to do 1000 rpm's. thanks for all the info, i'll let you know how it turns out, probably will be a couple weeks.

machie, what grande dog and raised by wolves said, could be either one. that hl carb is easy to rebuild so i wouldn't think the shop buggered that up. get the right kit and start all over. if it does the same thing when you pull the trigger look in the carb to see if the choke is closing. if thats ok clip the wire to the points and change over to electronic. probably something simple but not easy to fix over the phone. but hang in there.

 

[mackie]

yeah, thats what it does, it doesnt rev at all. i've messed with the points myself before these problems started. i asked the shop to replace the points and condensor but i dont think they did, i dont remember now. but thanks, thats a good tip, ill take a look at the points. i still think its the carb though.

 

[Lakeside53]

You can't convert the 090 to electronic using the available Stihl or Atom style triggers. It has 4 magnets arranged in N-N-N-S configuration to stop the saw from inadvertently running back wards. This messes up the timing really bad, and yes you can see a spark (not a good quality spark), but it won't run. One of the guys in our store is working with a manufacturer of electronic triggered coils to get one for the 090/070, but it's not ready yet.

 

[canguy21]

I would try lapping the carb sections with valve lapping compound on a small sheet of glass. They can be deformed by overtightening, causing air leasks.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

You can't convert the 090 to electronic using the available Stihl or Atom style triggers. It has 4 magnets arranged in N-N-N-S configuration to stop the saw from inadvertently running back wards. This messes up the timing really bad, and yes you can see a spark (not a good quality spark), but it won't run. One of the guys in our store is working with a manufacturer of electronic triggered coils to get one for the 090/070, but it's not ready yet.

:biggrinbounce2: Check you out with the old saw knowledge. :biggrinbounce2:

but thanks, thats a good tip, ill take a look at the points. i still think its the carb though.

I got a box of donuts that says its the points.


I thought carb first too, but only after fixing it and being amazed did I figure out what was causing it to act this way.

The ignition of the fuel charge was happening so late that it was interrupting the fuel flow through the engine and pushing the fuel charge partway back through the carb. This resulted in a mix so rich at a certain RPM that it simply couldnt rev any higher.

This was on a piston port engine, but Im not sure if that matters other than the fact that I was getting a fine spray of fuel out of the carb while it was happening.

It wouldnt spray fuel if it had reeds but the other symptoms would be similar.

 

[Lakeside53]

domdi; ive already done all that, numerous times. ive had the carb apart and back togethor many times already, with the new parts from the carb kit, and with the original parts. the needle and seat that came with the kit are different than the original. the needle and seat are not plugged, i checked that already. the problem with going to the dealer is that they are the ones that got me into this mess. when they see that old saw they dont even want to work on it, they try to talk me into buying a new saw. anybody that thinks an 090 is not worth rebuilding is too ignorant to work on my saw. thanks for the input anyway. i'm going to try to add a gasket above the main diaphram which appears to be missing in the picture.

Not sure where you are at with this saw, but another thought occurred - did you didn't change out the needle valve seat? The ORIGINAL needle was solid metal and the seat has a rubber insert in it. The replacement needle is a soft tip and the seat is solid metal. You need to change them out as a pair... If you look down into the original seat with an ottoscope (or similar) you'll see a rubber donut - these swell over the decades and can restrict the fuel flow, and aren't compatible with the newer needles.

 

[mackie]

heres an update for you guys. it wasnt the carb. i sent it to rupe_doggy who cleaned it up good, checked it out, adjusted it and ran it on one of his saws. it runs crappy on my saw and wont rev, as described previously. i'm going to check the points next.

 

[Lakeside53]

99% it's your condensor...

 

[mackie]

rupe_doggy mentioned wiggling the condensor on the plate to get a good connection. is there any way to test the condensor w/ a multimeter?

 

[Lakeside53]

Sometimes if you get it on the right range, and it's and OLD meter type, you can see the meter flick when the condenser charges. It definitely should not show any reading after that (i.e. appear open circuit). The problem is that many will test fine like this, but break down as soon as a high voltage is applied (by opening the points). Best solution is to simple replace it. If you have access to another 090, just swap the entire stator plates over. Only takes a few minutes that way.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

99% it's your condensor...

:welcome: :hmm3grin2orange:


Your getting warmer.....

 

[Lakeside53]

:welcome: :hmm3grin2orange:


Your getting warmer.....

Just a hot flash.. happening more and more lately.

Sure is easier to fix a saw if it's looking at you