Rec'd New Chain, Jokers, or anyone

[woodturner]

Got the replacement chain today. From what Jokers, and others have said on this forum, I should be using 95 VP, semi-chisel, narrow kerf chain on my Husky 350 saw.

According to the label on chain it's Oregon chain, 33SL-78E, 325-050 Chisel. The letters AZ is on the chain, along with Oregon, & the number 33.

Jokers, or anyone else, this isn't 95 VP, narrow kerf chain, is it?

 

[eyolf]

There is a real-world difference between the narrow-kerf 95vp and the regular chain you have, but the only people who really could tell are the pro's. It is a very slight difference. Further, there is some rumblings in the industry that the 95vp may be just a hair too light, and has an increased chance of eventually breaking.

I don't have any recent production 95vp...does it still have the holes in the drivers? Two dealers have told me that worn chains can collapse near those holes and when they start to go all hell breaks loose.

Anyway, back to topic, I have a Jonsered 2149, same power rating as Husky 350. I scored a 16" laminated narrow-kerf bar really cheap and bought a loop of 95vp chain to see if there was much cutting speed improvement. Answer, maybe a little...three or four more blocks of firewood per tankful.

To directly enswer your question: as long as the pitch (.325) and guage (.050) is the same, you're good to go.

 

[jokers]

Hi WT,

You`re right, that`s not 95VP it`s 33SL which is not as efficient a cutter. The 33Sl is a longer radius semichisel while the VP has a real tight radius corner, more like a chisel chain. The SL will work just fine on your saw however.

I can`t say for sure but it sounds to me like this dealer might be trying to unload some SL that he`s had lying around. So who is the dealer?

Russ

 

[tony marks]

the 95 vp chain aint a miracle chain or nothing. for me it worked a lot better on some saws than others. example,, on the partner 500,, i had it was grease lighting... on my 026 i prefer full chisel.
i dont understand the difference..
but there is one..these saws being pretty close in displacement..
u know i got a whole setup of 95 vp that will work on the 026. so before i say more i better try it on the saw. ill post when i get around to putting it on.. if theres anything to post about..
been thinking about trying it,, but it cuts so well with full chisel ,,just aint got around to givin it a fair test.

 

[woodturner]

Hey, squirrel, evidently you don't remember this: "What you might want to consider if you opt for the 350 with a 20" bar is the type of chain you run. The 95 vp that will come standard on the saw is a low profile narrow kerf, small radius semi chisel .325 chain which will maximize the power of that saw. There are also NK chisel chains that will perform well on this combo. DON'T LET ANYONE TALK YOU INTO A CHAIN WITH A BIGGER TOOTH"! Signed; Jokers (Russ) BTW, squirrel, did you take a class in 10 easy ways to piss people off? Course, it don't bother me, but I was just thinking of others with a thin skin!

Jokers, The label said 33SL chisel chain, & not semi chisel. And, again, the only 2 chains I'm aware of is the H30 & the 95 VP, that's why I'm asking ya'll. Like you said Russ, I want to maximize the power of the 350 w/the 20" bar. That's why I've been so adamant about the 2 other standard chains I've been sent. And, Russ, the company is http://www.northwestpowertools.com/lawnandgarden/chainsaws/chain.htm And, yes, I, like you now think they advertised the free chain ploy, just to get rid of some old chain. And, no, I don't know about chain, that's why I'm asking the "experts", trying to get a straight answer & not a smart A$$ed remark, so I can make an intelligent decision about trying to get a chain to max the power on this 350/20" combo. And, that's all I'm trying to do is get a chain that won't screw up the bar or the saw. Have I succeeded yet? What should I do, decisions, decisions, decisions, decisions, decisions, decisions?

So, in one last plea, Jokers, what would you do, and others if you want to chime in?

 

[glens]

turner,

You had great chain but sent it back.  Now you've got different great chain.  Don't sweat it.

If you'd wanted a specific type of chain you should have asked for it specifically.  I'd say that at this point you'd be best off just to drop the dialog with them and happily use the chain.  I say it with much more finality than I did last time.

Go buy a loop of the 95VP locally.  Take all three types out to the woods.  Swap them around a little and see which one you think you like better.  File on them a little.  Swap them around and see which one you like better.  Keep doing it until you've used all three chains up and you'll have a little something to go on next time you make a purchase, which might well include a new sprocket.  You might consider getting a 16" bar for the saw then as well.

Glen

 

[trimmmed]

And, yes, I, like you now think they advertised the free chain ploy, just to get rid of some old chain.

Oh man, they are getting rid of old chain by giving it away free. Oh, the humanity, what horror!!!

 

[Newfie]

My only concern would be the compatability of the 33SL w/ the microlite bar designed for the narrow kerf 95vp? Maybe there;s nothing to my concern anyhow.

33SL has got some of those big wanker bumper ties to help reduce kickback. I've got a couple of loops left over from days of buying a saw by the "blade length" and compounding my mistake by buying a poulan.

20" bar on the 350 was probably the first mistake but then we had that go around back a while.

 

[woodturner]

Newfie

"Compatability", my concern also!

 

[Crofter]

I cant come up with it right now but someone on here measured thickness of the so called thin kerf bars and it seems to me they were only a token amount thinner. Maybe someone can remember what it was posted under.

Frank

 

[glens]

I wouldn't worry five seconds about compatibility in this case.

The converse of what Frank said also comes to mind in that I recall someone here trying the thin-kerf chain on a "regular" bar to no ill effect.

Oregon's site says the outer laminates on their Micro-Lite bars are thinner, and if that's the bar on this particular 350, the worst that would happen is the sideplate will hang over a few thousandths.

This whole thing is such a non-issue, really.

Glen

 

[jokers]

WT,

Frank is right, the difference is minimal and not worth worrying about. Keep in mind that you need the narrow bar to run narrow kerf chain(well sorta) but you can run a standard kerf chain on a narrow bar if the gauge is correct.

BTW, you are right, SL is a chisel chain, I confused it with a semi chisel with the big a$$ bumper link that Oregon used to make. Not sure if they still do. The SL that you have should cut pretty well but won`t bore well with that bumper.

I kind of hate to say it, but that narrow kerf bar probably isn`t going to last an awful long time anyway. None of the laminated bars that the manufacturers are putting on the small saws these days is top shelf. Don`t sweat it though since bars are consumables and you can buy better next time if you wear this one out.

Russ

 

[woodturner]

"The chain I need"

Back to what squirrel said, "Pretend that the supplier knows what chain you need, and perhaps you do not"

On the contrary, 2 cycle breath, but I do know what chain I need, because the manual said to use the Husky H30 or the Oregon 95VP. DUHHHHHHHHH!

 

[jokers]

WT,

All real men have had two cycle breath at one time or another.

I sense another blank in Rocky`s communiqué that could stand to be filled in.

There are many types of chain that will be satisfactory on your saw, not only the two listed in your manual. ANY chain of the proper pitch, gauge, and number of drive links will work, just some work better than others.

Husky, as a manufacturer, has two objectives, minimize labilty by suggesting a lower kickback chain while still being conscious of acceptable performance. You seem to be obsessing over the type chain that you were given. It really isn`t a big deal. Now that you own the saw, you can put any chain you want on it.

Russ

 

[sedanman]

Woodturner, Do you always use factory replacement parts on ALL of your equipment and vehicles? I DOUBT IT! Just as it is o.k. to use a fram oil or air filter on your pick up truck, it is also fine to use a variety of cutting attachments on your saws. Your insitance that the seller is doing you a dis-service by GIVING you a chain that is not EXACTLY what the manual SUGGESTS is why I am glad you did not come into my shop. I Would have thrown you out by now. People here are trying to correct your ignorance, open your mind and let them.

 

[Saw Man]

Actually does make a difference if regular bars 0.050 vs 0.043, AND,
if the bar is wider.

As you already know, when the cutter is shorter, it makes a narrower kerf. While it's new, it tracks straighter in the bar groove.

As it gets shorter, sometimes the top plate angles, side plate angles (hook), and depth guage height aren't the same, so it will want to track like a snake moving.

In straight down cross cutting, or up cutting, the drive link has some bar grove clearance, but the narrower chain chassis begins to wear another track on the bar rail surface.

When angle cutting, or in a felling position, the drive link can touch-drag inside the bar groove causing faster wear, the rivets, ties straps, and rivet holes are strained. Which will eventually wear out of pitch, creating faster wear through out the cutting componets.
Especially with higher chain speed, and horse power saws.

To balance power, and extend cutting system life, they should be matched.

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by sedanman
Woodturner, Do you always use factory replacement parts on ALL of your equipment and vehicles? I DOUBT IT! Just as it is o.k. to use a fram oil or air filter on your pick up truck, it is also fine to use a variety of cutting attachments on your saws. Your insitance that the seller is doing you a dis-service by GIVING you a chain that is not EXACTLY what the manual SUGGESTS is why I am glad you did not come into my shop. I Would have thrown you out by now. People here are trying to correct your ignorance, open your mind and let them.

Better bring yore lunch.

 

[rb_in_va]

Originally posted by Saw Man

As you already know, when the cutter is shorter, it makes a narrower kerf.

I thought the kerf is narrower when the cutter is narrower

 

[Saw Man]

Your.....correct.
A cutter gets narrower as it gets shorter.

Looking down on top of a new cutter, and a used/sharpened one.
Note the rearward taper from the cutter point to the heel.
It gets narrower, and so does the kerf it makes.

In regards to the micro chains, they're already a reduced size.

Working speed is increased because they make a narrower kerf, or another way of saying it is that they pull a smaller chip, which reduces the necessary power to drive the chain, which keeps working speed higher.

 

[Crofter]

Sawman, I cant argue about .043 and .050 bars and chains but with 50 and 58 guage the outside of the bar and the outside dimension of the respective tem is identical. Only the width of the groove and the projecting portion of the drive link is different.

Frank