Rec'd New Chain, Jokers, or anyone

[Saw Man]

Crofter, you won't get an aruguemnt from me, especially since you're right.

Today, most. 050 is actually .058 drive link which is "coined" (stamped) down from .058 to .050.

That makes the joints at the rivets stronger, and there is more bearing (load) surface. One reason that .050 is becomming easier accepted inlieu of .058 on bars 28" on down.

 

[Crofter]

Walt Galer

It is too bad that Walt is no longer posting. He was involved with quality control and product development with chain manufacturers so I am told and had a lot of info on metallurgy and manufacturing processes. It appears from some of his old posts that the alloy in a lot of the low pro chain is not as forgiving and that at times Oregon has tried some other alloys for a while that gave breakage probs in extreme cold. Hard to know sometimes though whether based on facts or another "urban legend"

Frank

 

[glens]

I can't believe this one is still being hashed out.

The drivers are the proper thickness, are spaced the proper distance along the length of the chain, and there are the proper number of them.  It all adds up to 100% compatibility.

Glen

 

[Saw Man]

FYI,

Walt was one of my cutting system teachers.

Alot of things have changed over the years.

Sometimes the saw makers get ahead of the bar & chain makers.

Sometimes old inventory has to sell thru before new things come out. They have to recover their investments.

Sometimes it's simply education, or the acceptance of different things.
Take Oregon Vangard chain. Was targeted and sold by distributors-dealers wrongly. Oregon changed a few things, and it's a great Pro chain now. Almost equal to LP in performance, but with 30% lower vibration, and reduced kick back energy.
It looks different.....ie so it won't work is too often the case.

Last but not the least.....

Sometimes it's one manufacturer vs another. That's often a bigger problem than the general public realizes.

 

[Crofter]

Glen; We are not hashing out the same thing. You pretty well summed that up a while back. I guess Im talking about people being influenced in decision making by half truths and confusion over manufacturer hype instead of on the basis of measurable compatibility parameters. Remember 370 and .375! Remember the 7mm/06 7mm express .280 remington! Only figures if you dont understand what is behind them.

Frank

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by glens
I can't believe this one is still being hashed out.

The drivers are the proper thickness, are spaced the proper distance along the length of the chain, and there are the proper number of them.  It all adds up to 100% compatibility.

Glen

It just goes to show that I'm not the only one that don't know this stuff. And, I think we're all here to learn & improve ourselves. It just seems that some are more reluctant to admit they don't know than others. There's a lot I don't know & don't mind admitting it. If I don't know I'm asking! That's the only way to learn!

 

[MasterBlaster]

Excellent post, Woodturner.

 

[Crofter]

Woodturner

The TRICK is to know when you have received the right information. Some people do it by asking twenty different people and getting a concensus of what is the popular answer. This works sometimes. It is very often wrong (and sometimes right, but attributed to the wrong reason; that only bothers some people).
Some people are very knowledgeable but if they see someone asking another after they have given their advice they are insulted. Everyone has different styles and pet peaves.
Sometimes here I have seen the regulars get teed off when someone does not seem to be putting any effort into working thru the problem theirselves and appears to want it handed to them on a platter steaming, thank you.
Doing it here on the internet with only the written word takes away a lot from what would happen if we were face to face. There are misunderstandings at times but a lot of information gets exchanged.

Frank

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by MasterBlaster
Excellent post, Woodturner.

Thanks, Master B!!!

 

[tony marks]

its alway good to ask here .. but my advice to u is put the 16 inch husk bar on with lowes 95 vp replacement chain. after u run it with that 350 .. i think u will have an answer u like..jmo

 

[jokers]

Originally posted by woodturner
It just goes to show that I'm not the only one that don't know this stuff. And, I think we're all here to learn & improve ourselves. It just seems that some are more reluctant to admit they don't know than others. There's a lot I don't know & don't mind admitting it. If I don't know I'm asking! That's the only way to learn!

WT,

I`m curious to know what conclusion you have come to after reading all that has been posted in this thread.

I also perceive that you don`t believe glens when he states "The drivers are the proper thickness, are spaced the proper distance along the length of the chain, and there are the proper number of them. It all adds up to 100% compatibility." What part of this do you disagree with? My apologies if I read you wrong but I can`t decipher where you stand on this issue.

Russ

 

[Doug01]

With my 350 I have ran the husky bars that came with the saw, and a windsor speed tip bar. As far chains, several from oregon (as that is what the "husky" chains are) and some Stihl chains. Some of the chains wre narrow kerf and i have ran all these mix matched meaning narrow kerfed chain to a solid "wide" bar and vice versa. Bottom line keep them sharp and you won't really notice much, especially if you are part time user....like me.

Doug

 

[woodturner]

While I realize chains & bars are expendable, I would like to extend the life of them, as long as possible. I presumed that a standard kerf chain would screw up the bar for the NK chain that came with the saw. Also, the safety factor comes into play, since the standard chain would have more of a tendancy to kickback. And, as previously mentioned, with the 20" bar, & considering the power of this saw, or lack of it, I wanted to optimize the best qualities of this saw. I have no problems using whatever chain. It's just when you don't know, &/or understand these chains, it's like a foreign language to you. And, the only 2 "knowns", or for "certains", that I had to reference to, was the 2 chains mentioned in the manual. That's all I had to compare to!

 

[Crofter]

The chains that are biased toward the greatest reduction of kickback tendency have redundant safety bumpers, full width depth guages etc. and a lot of hardware that has to be dragged thru the cut in the space that could otherwise be carrying out chips so they tend to be slower cutting and most wont cut wood anywhere within 3 or 4 inches of the tip or make bore cuts. As far as optimising all the best qualities.......like most other things in life, there is usually tradeoffs. Glen gave you good advice. Try them out analyse the differences and learn from the results.

Frank

 

[woodturner]

I've got a little better handle on this situation now, better understanding at this point. I'll give it a shot.

Thanks.