Recommended Bar Size for Husky 372XP (non XTorq)

[HumBurner]

You really don't need a chain brake on a mill, either. I have only kept mine on to block a chain if tossed.

 

[HumBurner]

Why .063 vs .050? Oil? Wouldn’t .063 tax the saw more?

The difference is marginal.

 

[J D]

Why .063 vs .050? Oil? Wouldn’t .063 tax the saw more?

Nope

My issue has always been chain brake operation. I’ve always had to back my other husky off 1/2” to allow the brake handle to move properly.

If it's a dedicated milling saw the chain brake is usually just a hindrance & can be removed

Interesting. I’ve not considered different bar sizes. All other things equal, is there a noticeable difference running a 32 vs a 28 on the same let’s say 18” log?

Yes, especially if your power head is marginal

 

[kirkdb]

Looks like 30” mill / 28” bar and 24” mill / 24” bar are leading. If those two choices stand, I’ll likely go with the 30/28 combo.

Here’s my thinking. My husky 450r will push a 20” ripping chain through an 18” log. Just barely but it’s manageable. That’s on my g777 mill wich is only supported at the powerhead and not at the nose sprocket. I’ve had logs that went right to the tip of the bar and like I said …. Manageable.

With a conventional mill that claps at both the powerhead side and nose sprocket side of the bar I lose 6” realistically. So, a 24” bar would bring me back to the husky 450r max width; just more power with the g372xp. And that is likely a sweet setup. But a 28” bar will pull me down to around 22-23” which I believe would still be more horses per inch of cut than the husky 450 @ 18”.

Thats my chain of thought a least (see what I did there)

 

[HumBurner]

What's manageable and what ensures longevity/health of the saw are two totally different things.

Heat = bad.



But it's your money and time.

 

[kirkdb]

What's manageable and what ensures longevity/health of the saw are two totally different things.

Heat = bad.



But it's your money and time.

At 9500ft there is no heat and no air

 

[link]

Interesting. I’ve not considered different bar sizes. All other things equal, is there a noticeable difference running a 32 vs a 28 on the same let’s say 18” log?

I think perhaps the bar oiling capacity of the saw is most important to consider if you use an excessive bar.
Pulling a few inches of extra chain might do some to the acceleration perhaps but not a big struggle to pull for a 50cc or bigger saw. But once it is buried in wood of course thats a big difference.
Also the AV buffers are designed to handle a specific bar weight (I guess) but that might not be too critical when milling.

 

[lindnova]

Get a 36" mill for when you get a larger saw. You won't have much luck over 28" bar in that saw and it will be hard on it. After trying it out with the 372 you will be looking for a 90cc saw.

 

[link]

I have milled 24" of rock hard birch with a 038 magnum copycat saw at 28", its absolutely doable.

 

[sean donato]

I ran my 390xp through some oak when my 394xp was down for a new top end. 36" bar in the mill, cutting between 28-30" wide. I can't say it was over working the saw, but it would have been much faster using the 394xp. I wouldn't want to mill with a 70cc saw at all. Take the dogs off they are just in the way, just like the brake handle, although I leave that on myself as I use both saws for felling. The dogs are easier to take on and off.

 

[link]

I wouldn't want to mill with a 70cc saw at all

Its a weight consideration, yeas a 70cc saw does 13k rpm with a 20" guide bar.

 

[J D]

Its a weight consideration, yeas a 70cc saw does 13k rpm with a 20" guide bar.

Are you strapping your guide board to the log & moving the straps as you mill? How's that been working for you?

 

[link]

Are you strapping your guide board to the log & moving the straps as you mill? How's that been working for you?

Not sure what you're asking, hows that last picture for yah?

 

[link]

Are you strapping your guide board to the log & moving the straps as you mill? How's that been working for you?

Exactly, that's the easy way, you got a more complicated and more time consuming way to do it?

 

[J D]

Exactly, that's the easy way, you got a more complicated and more time consuming way to do it?

I do... but it works for me.
Will post a couple of pic's of mine when I get the chance to. Essentially it's aluminium extrusion with end caps that slide to match the length of the log & screw into the end of the log.
For logs longer than about 10' I have a 24' steel C beam I use.
I usually fix everything with tek screws, might have to do some experimenting with ratchet straps

 

[link]

I do... but it works for me.
Will post a couple of pic's of mine when I get the chance to. Essentially it's aluminium extrusion with end caps that slide to match the length of the log & screw into the end of the log.
For logs longer than about 10' I have a 24' steel C beam I use.
I usually fix everything with tek screws, might have to do some experimenting with ratchet straps

To me the milling is quick and dirty in hostile terrain, so I look for the quick and easy method.
If I want to make the timber in to furniture it will go through a planer and thicknesser anyway.

 

[link]

Will post a couple of pic's of mine when I get the chance to.

I'd like that sir, thanks.