Redback 18", 120V Lithium, Cordless (Battery) Chainsaw

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My electronics side is kicking in.... I know that plug in stuff is a royal pain, but would there be a market for a pack that fits into the battery slot, yet plugs into a 120V cord?

Think about it... Ok, you're out of battery power. Trade the battery for this module, plug in, and continue. I know it kills the cordless idea, but it would work.
 
My electronics side is kicking in.... I know that plug in stuff is a royal pain, but would there be a market for a pack that fits into the battery slot, yet plugs into a 120V cord?

Think about it... Ok, you're out of battery power. Trade the battery for this module, plug in, and continue. I know it kills the cordless idea, but it would work.

Yes we have already built that :)
 
(I want one that runs off grass clippings . . . . )

Philbert

That would be a goat. ;) Seriously, I think there is a place for battery saws. I have a fairly extensive DeWalt 20V Max tool collection, so I bought their 20V saw. Nowhere near the power of my gas saws, but it will cut small limbs and trunks fairly well. It's ideal for an emergency cut or two where I can be through cutting with the DeWalt before I can start up the Stihl or Echo.
 
My electronics side is kicking in.... I know that plug in stuff is a royal pain, but would there be a market for a pack that fits into the battery slot, yet plugs into a 120V cord?

Think about it... Ok, you're out of battery power. Trade the battery for this module, plug in, and continue. I know it kills the cordless idea, but it would work.
I do not think that will work. Even if it did look at what a Makita corded chainsaw costs, it looks a lot like a hypoid circular saw that draws like 13 to 15 amps. My Husqvarna battery charger draws 330 watts so that is lesss than 3 amps. essentially it takes 50 minutes and I can drain the battery in 13 minutes and that is re positioning the cuts. The charger has more volume than the battery. The charger is most likely not designed for the dusty conditions the saw would experience. The charger circulates more air than the saw, actually the pole saw and string trimmer only circulates air across the circuitry not the motor. Why not just get a second battery? Or perhaps a back pack battery. If it did work what do you think the cost would be compared to the battery charger?
 
It's ideal for an emergency cut or two where I can be through cutting with the DeWalt before I can start up the Stihl or Echo.
They are very convenient. Also relatively simple to operate, way to maintain, and quiet, compared to gas saws.

Why not just get a second battery? Or perhaps a back pack battery.
Nice to have options. A cord option allows 'unlimited' use.

Philbert
 
They are very convenient. Also relatively simple to operate, way to maintain, and quiet, compared to gas saws.

I think battery saws are fantastic but my need for multiple batteries makes them an expensive alternative. And charging multiple batteries without multiple chargers is a pain in the butt.
 
All saws have advantages and disadvantages. The good batteries are often half the price of the tool.

That is why I encourage folks to look at the entire 'family' of tools that use a common battery platform. Once you have a couple of batteries, you can buy 'bare tools' (no battery or charger) for a lot less $. String trimmers, leaf blowers, lawn mowers, etc.

It is nice to also have an additional charger, but the 'smart chargers' also cut down charging time quite a bit.

A battery powered chainsaw might make sense for some as an only saw. It's a nice additional saw for a lot of others (few people on this site have just one saw, if they stay on here very long!).

Philbert
 
Upon further consideration I think a battery charger sized for an electric motorcycle drawing about 10 amps at 240 volts 50 or 60 cycles could be wired to a module that replaces the battery pack in a cordless chainsaw of the class we discuss here.
Not sure where you are going with this. This saw is 120V. I have several 120V corded electric saws. Replacing a 4#, 120V battery with a 120V AC adaptor requires a connector, and maybe a rectifier. Would weigh a lot less than the battery.

Philbert
 
Not sure where you are going with this. This saw is 120V. I have several 120V corded electric saws. Replacing a 4#, 120V battery with a 120V AC adaptor requires a connector, and maybe a rectifier. Would weigh a lot less than the battery.

Philbert
The battery supplies 120VDC. From the wall, you get 120Vac. To get from AC to DC, you would need a bridge rectifier. With just a bridge rec alone (no filter cap), you would end up with 108VDC. This may be enough to run the saw. I don know what kind of current this motor draws, but a 10A bridge rec is not heavy at all. I suspect any noticeable weight would come from the heatsink necessary to keep the bridge rec from frying.
 
You guys may be more right than I am. I just happen to have an electric motorcycle that is about 250 volts and attaches to ac about 240 volts ac. I know how big the box is and how hard it blows air which may cycle on and off, or blow at what seems a few different speeds. I think you will need about 20 amps at 120 volts from the description in this thread of how it cuts. These brushless motors must run on some sort of multi phase from the controller. I did a thread where I shortened the Husqvarna pole saw and there are three wires going to the motor. Phil and I have gone around on this voltage of the battery before, What Oregon calls 40 here gets called 36 in Europe. Maybe in this instance the 108 volts mentioned above would be just right.
 
Don't forget, DC motors generate more torque than AC motors for a given power consumption. So, that plug in AC saw may pull 15A to generate X-ft.lbs. of torque. To generate the same X-ft.lbs. of torque with a DC motor may only require 7A.
 
Anyway; if they offer it, I want it.

If I am doing a lot of cutting close to a power source (within 100') I can use the cord. If I am away, I can use the batteries. Like having 2 saws in one.

I assume that the converter / adaptor would also work with the other, compatible 120V O*P*E that Redback offers (leaf blower, string trimmer, lawn mowers, and that log splitter - if DHT is not pulling our leg!)

Philbert
 
I probably have not read this thread end to end as I am kind of committed to Husqvarna family of tools at this point.

How does the sprocket attach to the motor? Is it a bigger attachment than the approximately half inch diameter shaft with two flats that seems common in the 36/40 volt stuff?

This Redback tool is direct drive as opposed to gear reduction like the Dewalt?
 
Met 'Mr. Redback' today at a trade show. Nice to meet the face behind the products and to hear the 'other side' of product development.

Sounds like some fun new stuff in the works, but that is up to him to reveal.

BTW, the 120V saw is now available on Amazon.

Philbert
 
We've been using the saw mostly in the shop to cut stuff that's too big or long to fit in the stove.

I've got no complaints. It certainly won't compare to the Stihl 460, Husky 372, etc (the size I usually run), but it's roughly on par with a Wild Thing as far as cut performance. The chain speed is much slower, though it's got good torque. I've hogged it into wood and it keeps on going. Don't think I've gotten it to actually stall out.

For a homeowner that would just use a saw a couple times a year doing yard maintenance this is ideal.

The battery holds a charge well too, well other than if it's outside in the cold, but they all do that.
 
My Echo continues to work well and it is the first thing I grab for easy jobs. It seems to do its best with wood up to 6 inches in diameter. On occasion I will squeeze the trigger and nothing happens but then another squeeze and it starts to work.
 

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