remington sl-9 carb

[aartod]

Hello... I just bought a remington sl-9 and it hadnt been ran in years, so i got it home and mixed up a oil rich 16:1 mix and gave 'er a few pulls and it started up and ran okay, but not perfect, so i adjusted the carb a bit and it ran alot better but the idle was always a bit wierd. When i let off the gas if would take a whlie for it to return to idle- and sometimes it would idle fine and occasionally it would die. so I decided to take the carb out and take a look at it and cut a new carb to engine gasket.... I peaked inside the carb and it appeared fairly clean so i tightened it all back up (didnt want to get to far into it and tear a gasket or something)- then reinstalled the carb with a new gasket.... now it wont run right- hard to start when warm, barely idles.... runs wide open fine. I assume i got some dirt in it, or knocked some loose. so, my question is, what is the easiest way to clean it without opening it? should I remove the carb and spray carb clean thru the H & L screw holes and the vents and fuel hole? Is blowing it out with compressed air alright- or do i risk damage to the guts of it? I am not too familar with 2 stroke equipment.... Where would I find a carb rebuild kit for it? the carb is a tillotson HS53A... I cant find anything for this specific carb, however, I found a few on ebay for "HS series carbs"-- will those work? let me know.... I would like to have this running again today! I have some cutting to do!

 

[Eccentric]

Hello... I just bought a remington sl-9 and it hadnt been ran in years, so i got it home and mixed up a oil rich 16:1 mix and gave 'er a few pulls and it started up and ran okay, but not perfect, so i adjusted the carb a bit and it ran alot better but the idle was always a bit wierd. When i let off the gas if would take a whlie for it to return to idle- and sometimes it would idle fine and occasionally it would die. so I decided to take the carb out and take a look at it and cut a new carb to engine gasket.... I peaked inside the carb and it appeared fairly clean so i tightened it all back up (didnt want to get to far into it and tear a gasket or something)- then reinstalled the carb with a new gasket.... now it wont run right- hard to start when warm, barely idles.... runs wide open fine. I assume i got some dirt in it, or knocked some loose. so, my question is, what is the easiest way to clean it without opening it? should I remove the carb and spray carb clean thru the H & L screw holes and the vents and fuel hole? Is blowing it out with compressed air alright- or do i risk damage to the guts of it? I am not too familar with 2 stroke equipment.... Where would I find a carb rebuild kit for it? the carb is a tillotson HS53A... I cant find anything for this specific carb, however, I found a few on ebay for "HS series carbs"-- will those work? let me know.... I would like to have this running again today! I have some cutting to do!

-First off.......welcome to the site.

-Second, DON'T blow carb cleaner or compressed air into that assembled carb if you don't want to ruin the diaphragms.

-Third, you don't need to run 16/1 in that saw (even though that's what it sez on the saw) as we're using modern 2-stroke lubricants, and the 16/1 ratio was intended for motor oil (DON'T use motor oil). Use good modern 2-stroke oil intended for air cooled engines at 32/1 in that saw and you'll be fine.

-Fourth, don't waste your time trying to 'fix' or 'clean' an assembled carb that's been sitting for years. You're going to have to crack 'er open and rebuild it propperly with an RK-23HS kit. It's not hard, and the kits are easy/cheap to get. Clean the disassembled carb body with spray carb cleaner. If you blow it out with compressed air, DON'T put the nozzle right into the passages and blast away. Hold the nozzle a good foot or so from the body to lessen the pressure a bit. You can use the spray carb cleaner tube right in the passages however. Here's the Tillotson info you need for the rebuild of that carb.


http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/techinfo_HS_US.pdf

Tillotson

-Fifth, My guess is that you may have not gotten the impulse hole cut right in your homemade carb gasket. The RK-23HS kit will come with a new one, so you're covered there too.

-Sixth, be sure you tune the engine right when you get it back together. When tuning the H side, DO NOT tune it for max RPM's or the 'cleanest' sounding running at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) when not in the cut. Tune it so that it burbles (AKA 'four strokes') at WOT out of the cut. When in the cut, it should JUST 'clean up' when heavily loaded down. Anytime you 'lift' cutting pressure (reducing load on the engine), it should drop right back to 'four stroking'. If you tune it for nice clean high RPM running when unloaded, the saw WILL lean out/bog down when loaded in the cut. This WILL damage the engine. I have a shelf full of old saws (including an SL-9) that people killed the pistons/cylinders in by making this mistake...

 

[ckelp]

first welcome to hell

second i run all my saws at 50:1 even my sl-9a
your carb sounds like it needs to be taken apart new diaphragm and gaskets.
you may have put something in upside down like a gasket or something.
just get a crab rebuild kit there out there!!
TILLOTSON HS | eBay

here's the diagram of your carb
Chain Saw Carburetor

 

[aartod]

thanks for the relpy! as far as the gasket goes, I made a exact replica of the old one...using punches for the hole (so it is not a hacked out hillbilly deal!)-- so it should be good...but then agin I am definatly not saying i couldnt of missed something as well! Thanks for the info on the carb kit- I will order one very soon. I would love for this saw to run great and be reliable. I am asucker for the older equipment. thanks for the info on carb tuning-I did alot of research on tuning 2 stroke carbs due to the fact that I am not that familar with 2 stroke engines... I have fixed/rebuilt many many 4 stroke engines- however, the 2 stroke is a bit of a different animal! i was hoping for an easy fix today- normally I wouldnt try to clean a assembled carb!

 

[aartod]

and by the way, I am pretty happy to be able to run this guy on 32:1 or 50:1 gas... i thought 16:1 was pretty crazy!

 

[Zippy]

I agree but ...

I agree with all the previous posts but if you're looking for a potential quick fix you could check your fuel line. If it's old it could have cracked or split when you took the carb off. That could allow air to be drawn in causing slow return to idle and hard starting. Normally a 5 min job to replace a fuel line.

 

[Eccentric]

I agree with all the previous posts but if you're looking for a potential quick fix you could check your fuel line. If it's old it could have cracked or split when you took the carb off. That could allow air to be drawn in causing slow return to idle and hard starting. Normally a 5 min job to replace a fuel line.

Zippy that's true too. He should replace the fuel line (all the way from the filter to the carb) regardless. It'll be old and deteriorated. Even if it looks fine at the moment, it can crack and let in air while he's running the saw. That's a good way to lean out the saw and damage it. Sometimes it really is the simple things that need attention first....

 

[aartod]

well, i had the tank cover off to replace the cover gasket... the fuel line "looked" good (for how much that is worth!)- so where does the fuel line go after it goes out of the tank? it appears as though it will be difficult to get to the area where the fuel line connects...

 

[aartod]

one other question...the RK-23HS kits on ebay mention several different models of saws they go to.... will any of them work fine? Some of them appear to have different carb to engine gaskets than mine and I cant find any of them that mention my exact saw in their discription.

 

[Eccentric]

one other question...the RK-23HS kits on ebay mention several different models of saws they go to.... will any of them work fine? Some of them appear to have different carb to engine gaskets than mine and I cant find any of them that mention my exact saw in their discription.

They most likely won't mention the Remington. Don't worry though. Any RK-23HS kit will work fine for your carb. Also, the carb gaskets may look different, but should still work fine. The important parts of the gaskets will be the same, even if the external profiles are a bit different.

 

[aartod]

great... i will order one up. about fuel lines... mine is a bit crusty- now I realize i can use any fuel line, but what do you all use for a fuel filter? can I just put a inline filter on the end similar to what is used on older dirtbikes and quads?

 

[Eccentric]

great... i will order one up. about fuel lines... mine is a bit crusty- now I realize i can use any fuel line, but what do you all use for a fuel filter? can I just put a inline filter on the end similar to what is used on older dirtbikes and quads?

You will want to use a chainsaw specific 'clunk' type weighted filter. Get one that fits the fuel line you're buying.

 

[aartod]

sounds great- I will replace that fuel line, rebuild that carb, make yet another gas tank cover gasket... however it will be on the backburner for a week or two now due to a crazy-busy work schedual and i have to wait for parts. I busted my back today cutting up small (12-16") pines with my super sized stihl saw with a 30" bar.... was kinda looking forward to using my "new" light weight saw! Anyhow, thank you all for the advice!

 

[aartod]

One last question... Is there anywhere I can buy a gastank cover gasket? I don't mind making one, but I would rather have the real deal. Is there a particular sealant that I should use on this gasket? Permatex gasket sealer? Some ultra copper (my personal favorite)?

 

[67L36Driver]

One last question... Is there anywhere I can buy a gastank cover gasket? I don't mind making one, but I would rather have the real deal. Is there a particular sealant that I should use on this gasket? Permatex gasket sealer? Some ultra copper (my personal favorite)?

Unlike Homelite, Poulan and Mac NOS stuff, Remington parts are about exhausted. Watch evilbay.

Visit your FLAPS (friendly, local auto parts store) and ask for rolls of Felpro gasket material. IIRC my local O'Reilleys had some rubberised fabric that would be great for fuel tanks.

I use Permatex 300 gasket cement (never dries out) on most everything. Even works for eliminating cylinder base gaskets. Two coats, let it dry between coats.

 

[aartod]

Thanks... I have a roll of the very stuff you described. I cut a new gasket a week or so, but opened up the tank cover yesterday and destroyed the new gasket. It's amazing how fast gaskets bond to surfaces! I was just curious if they still made gaskets... Anyhow, I have a pile of pear tree wood to go cut up- thanks!

 

[louye2]

Remington SL-9 Carburetor Flooding

I recently rebuilt the carburetor in my Remington SL-9 chainsaw. I was pretty meticulous about following the instructions in this thread and the various Tillotson documents referenced. When tried to startup the saw today, it ran for a few seconds and then died. I tried starting it a few times more, but it just does not start. I checked the carburetor compartment and it was flooded with about 1/4" of gas.

What do you suggest I do now? Could this be a leaking fuel line problem? What should I check short of removing the carburetor and doing another rebuild? I'm pretty frustrated right now!

Thank you for your advice.

Lou