Remove entire baffel Or drill large holes in it?

[Ray Bennett]

In the past when modifying mufflers on my smaller saws I just drilled larger holes in the internal baffle inside my muffler then opened up the exhaust port which was quick, easy and neat and worked enough to let me open the carb nearly 3/4 turn. I wonder if you all recommend pealing apart the muffler and removing the baffle completly Like the inside of my 036 came stock? Im thinking removing the baffle completly and opening the exhaust hokes will let it breath better and may keep the saw a little quieter then just drilling out the front of the muffler and having exhaust blow straight thru the baffle and out the front. I just removed the baffle in a 390 muffler but the snow hit and I have not had a chance to see if all the pealing and re-crimping was worth it. So I wonder what you all think?

 

[MAG58]

I make holes in the baffler plate if I keep them (that's different from saw to saw), and make a bigger outlet from the Muffler one way or another

This is for a Partner 500

This is when it was almost ready, opened up and repainted. I tested it, and ended up with welding the middle hole up again cos it sounded like there was no Muffler at all the middle hole was straight out from the ex-outlet

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I recently pulled the baffle from a SEZ and found this lil saw to be a beastie in this configuration. The only concern being is I now get a good amount of oily residue on the side of the saw from the exhaust.



Tm thinking this is un burnt fuel leaving the saw and Im planning on putting the baffle back in with about 3x the holes of stock.



Now if I can just rember where I put the baffle...

 

[Ray Bennett]

Dont let my thread die, I really want more opinions.

 

[WQuaday]

Baffle Questions

Ray, Comparing the original to the modified in your pictures, I'd say no need to put it back in. There would be no noise suppressing effect. I have wondered what effect the baffle has on performance. How much heat is retained, and what effect it has on the ability of the engine to expel heat at the exhaust port. It seems to me the engineers have designed the heXX out of these machines since I started working on two stroke chain saw engines back in the sixties. I figured they have done the research, they know what works best. Then my Jonsered 490 plugged the spark screen with crud and the thing wouldn't run. I just took it off and it ran fine. I've had to rework the piston cyl and I'm seriously considering opening up the baffle and outer exhaust hole just to let some of the heat out faster because the piston is a little loose now and won't transfer heat to the cyl wall as well. WWQ

 

[MAG58]

There will be some noise suppressing effect if the hole in the baffler plate is not in line whit the cylinder ex-outlet and the muffler outlet.

 

[MAG58]

I make holes in the baffler plate if I keep them (that's different from saw to saw), and make a bigger outlet from the Muffler one way or another

This is for a Partner 500

This is when it was almost ready, opened up and repainted. I tested it, and ended up with welding the middle hole up again cos it sounded like there was no Muffler at all the middle hole was straight out from the ex-outlet

This baffler plate ended up whit the middle hole welded, cos it was in line whit the cylinder ex-outlet and the muffler outlet, so it was to loud. But otherwise this muffler made a different saw.