Removing reed valves that are pinned in on old Craftsman 16" chainsaw?

[Richard Robbinsj]

Removing reed valves that are pinned in on old Craftsman 16" chainsaw?

 

[HarleyT]

Pic? Saw model number?

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

The model is 917.350720 and the reed assy # is 470131. I found one for a David Bradley, same model and part #'s but it's not the same

 

[Little Al]

Are the reed petals riveted to the reed block? you can grind off the rivet heads & remove the unserviceable petals you can by replace ment petals that are bigger & trim to size if the size fitted are NLA carbon firbe replacements seem to work best rivets & othe parts are available

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

Yes, they are riveted in and my idea was to replace them with fiberglass material. I did locate a source and just have to measure the thickness I need. I didn't know if there was a way to save and re-use the existing pins. Where would be a place that carries various size rivets for me to purchase? I know that factory parts for a saw that's about 50 yrs old are scarce. I figured the knowledge base on this site would bail me out! Thanks for your input. Would hardware stores have rivets of this size range?
Rick

 

[JimM]

Yes, they are riveted in and my idea was to replace them with fiberglass material. I did locate a source and just have to measure the thickness I need. I didn't know if there was a way to save and re-use the existing pins. Where would be a place that carries various size rivets for me to purchase? I know that factory parts for a saw that's about 50 yrs old are scarce. I figured the knowledge base on this site would bail me out! Thanks for your input. Would hardware stores have rivets of this size range?
Rick

McMaster-Carr is a wonderful resource for many things.

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

Great, I'll look them up when I figure out the size rivets I need. I have heard their name mentioned for parts for other interests that I have. Thanks for the help, much appreciated! Working on this saw internally is a new adventure for me.
Rick

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Rich what you are trying to do is difficult at best. It takes a delicate touch to restore older reed inductions. Stainless steel petals work better than any thing else. Fiberglass and other composite reeds do not perform well in a saw for many reasons. Fiberglass reeds need a very specific tension and fitment. Stainless reeds are the most forgiving. What I do most often is turn the reeds up side down and call it a day. First of all you are working with a worn out old saw that has little life left in it. Small saws that just need a carb restoration are very plentiful. To get some rivets that fit your intake exactly are a challenge. They will need to be fitted to your case. So maybe some emery cloth with a drill could do it. Let us know how your project turns out. Thanks

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

Can't reverse them because one of the four is completely missing. Although the saw is old, it really didn't have many hours on it. Occasional use only. I'll check for some stainless at the Mcmaster site and see what I can find. Maybe I'm chasing a situation that is going to be useless. I'd probably try it anyway since the saw will be junk if I don't try.
Thanks for your opinion about the reed material.
Rick

 

[T-Dozzer]

That sounds like alot of work for that saw. I just saw a craftsman chainsaw at a garage sale for $5.
If your into it for the challege, more power to ya!

 

[Little Al]

Great, I'll look them up when I figure out the size rivets I need. I have heard their name mentioned for parts for other interests that I have. Thanks for the help, much appreciated! Working on this saw internally is a new adventure for me.
Rick

If all fails in the obtaining of rivets if you find the dia of the required rivet you can buy alloy round bar from model shops or source online form a head, cut to length, & peen over tother end won't be as neat as a machine formed headed rivet but the reed block & petals won't care so long as they are a snug fit

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

• Well, it is mostly the challenge, just can't leave broken things alone! Of course my wife is of the "junk it and get a new one". Doesn't understand the need to fix! I've done it all my life with cars, boats, snowblower or anything that was not working.
• I like the idea of model shop supplies in a pinch. The more I read hear, the more I see that it's feasible to give it a shot.
• Thanks for all the suggestions! If there are more I'm open to them.
• Rick

 

[ray benson]

See if this looks like it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-TE...761306&hash=item3629220877:g:~XQAAOSwCtJaTO36

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

YES!!! That's it! I'm buying it right away. Did a lot of searching and never came up with it! Thanks a lot for chasing this down, amazing!
Rick

 

[Ted Jenkins]

It appears that you have what you need so let us know how it runs. I do relate to fixing anything broken because that is what I do. Thanks

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

Part should come in in 2 to 3 wks. I'll definitely report back on this thread when I put it together.
Thanks to all that contributed.
Rick

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

Well the part came in and the saw runs like a champ! While I was at it I installed a Nova 2 ignition module. Have to try and find or repair the spark arrestor since it's missing some of the screening. Just a good thing to do when I get time. Anybody ever replace the screening in one? It's the cast aluminum bolt on with exhaust slots. Although it's a Craftsman saw, the reed cage assembly was for a Tecumseh. Gives me two brands to search.
Thanks for everyone's help, it got the old saw humming again!

 

[HarleyT]

It is a Roper saw.

 

[Richard Robbinsj]

OK thanks , I'll look for the spark arrestor under that brand.

 

[HarleyT]

Have you scrounged up the part number for that? Sear's site only shows the parts/numbers for stuff that they still have. If you do have the number, search also under the brand name "Tecumseh".