Repairing Topped Trees

[Slvrmple72]

4 Silvers in the backyard about thirty feet from the house and all of them had been topped/ improperly pruned about 7 years ago. The one at the back corner of the house had flush cuts done on limbs near the base of the trunk opposite of eachother resulting in two hollow cavities that have joined in a trunk that is about 15 degrees leaning towards house. I recommended removal after he stated that a sewer line will be put in. The others are "ugly" with several large (6" to 8" dia ) main branches 2 to 3' in length that are dead. Thankfully the Hickory in the front yard was not touched and looks beautiful needing only a light cleaning and reduction. Talking with the homeowner it became clear that his concern for the Silver Maples in the backyard was the canopies reaching over the roof and the damage potential from shedding limbs as well as gutter buildup from debris. I talked him out of retopping the trees recommending instead to remove a few limbs on the trees to redirect growth of the canopy away from the house as well as repair the canopies ( remove dead branches, scarred, stubs, waterspouts ) Anyhow, my question is this: how many of you have the owner commit to some sort of upkeep for the gradual repair/ maintenance of trees in this condition with the understanding that not doing so waives any liability you have for the work you perform? I see these trees requiring a follow-up in the fall/spring and then again in at least 2-3 years.

 

[kennertree]

Just get it in writing. I just did a job a few weeks ago starting a restoration on 6 sugar maples and a large elm. He committed to doing the work over a period of 3-4 years. This time around i just removed deadwood, any crossover branches at the topping cuts and branches that needed to be reduced to help avoid breaking.

 

[Bermie]

After a topping restoration I tell the HO I will stop by from time to time to have a look.
If I see anything that needs attention within a few months of the first restoration attempt I call them and let them know...then go and do the work.
Usually small branches may break if a bit of wind comes through and needs a tidy up.
I also tell them that the tree will need an annual visit for at least three to five years. I've got about six months to go on the first few I've done...

 

[masterarbor]

great advice so far. it's a labor of love to do crown restoration. my favorite part has got to be the poor tie in and weak branch unions. who's in the mood for some shimmying?

 

[treeseer]

getting it in writing yes just write a second proposal when you write the first and get them to sign it; x years from now, y yhours z dollars, there ya go.

 

[Bermie]

great advice so far. it's a labor of love to do crown restoration. my favorite part has got to be the poor tie in and weak branch unions. who's in the mood for some shimmying?

Strop and a carabiner...sometimes the only way to tie in!
115lbs really helps in these situations!!

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Crown restorations can be fulfilling and generate more work, aside from the revolving account they make with that client.

I would be uncomfortable with signed proposal 3 years out.

Two ways I've gone with it is to put in the agreement that the client is responsible for contacting for rescheduling, or that i will be calling back in three years.

It is also worded that the past treatment has made it inherently weak and that they need to have a regular cycle of treatment to reduce risk of failure.

There is no way you can write it to force them to allow the work 3 years down the road.

I do know a guy who does espalier, pollard and such where he has them pay for a 5 year commitment upfront. they are usually small jobs that need him to be there at a given time in the season. I do not know how he words it, but from what I understand he has carried it over between owners on estates.

This may be a way to do it in trees that have a lot of old sprouts and may be best to go slowly with over a long period of time

 

[Thillmaine]

Suckers

I agree with all of the above, althoguth I am nto a business owner I just have one bit of arboricultural advice...Leave watershoots around the cavities..you need all the wood you can in that area...

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I agree with all of the above, althoguth I am nto a business owner I just have one bit of arboricultural advice...Leave watershoots around the cavities..you need all the wood you can in that area...

Good advice, woundwood production increases near leafmass. Gilman has shown that actual compartmentalization, ie reaction changes, is more pronounced the closer leaf bearing branches are to wounds.

Another scientific rational for not doing a raise and gut.

 

[Bermie]

I agree with all of the above, althoguth I am nto a business owner I just have one bit of arboricultural advice...Leave watershoots around the cavities..you need all the wood you can in that area...

Good advice, woundwood production increases near leafmass. Gilman has shown that actual compartmentalization, ie reaction changes, is more pronounced the closer leaf bearing branches are to wounds.

Another scientific rational for not doing a raise and gut.

Thanks for that tip gents! I had not thought of that, or heard it before... makes sense and I will add it to my bag of tricks!

 

[Slvrmple72]

Thanks fellas. I will post before and after pics for your viewing pleasure, although not necessarily in this thread. The trees have several spots where woundwood is trying to grow around the dead/rotting stumps. The homeowner called and I will be doing the work around the end of April so I may have to let up on the amount of thinning I do so as not to shock the trees depending on the arrival of the spring foliage. It is always a delicate balance between taking off too much so the homeowner thinks he is getting his money's worth or properly balancing the tree. I will have to sneek a couple pics of the butchered dwarf maples in the front yard when he isn't looking.