Replacement powerhead for CSM: 090 or 084?

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Joshua Tabora

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2019
Messages
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Location
Silver Spring
I'm currently running a 48" Alaskan mill with a Stihl 075, and a 42" bar pulling .404 chain. The 075 has been problematic ever since I've run it; the excessive vibration causes the saw to lose bolts, despite my best attempts to apply locktite and keep everything cinched down. The saw has rattled the muffler bolts off, loosened the nut securing the clutch and has even lost a decompression valve. The saw is currently waiting on a new decomp valve, but in the mean time I am considering buying a replacement/backup powerhead so that I can continue milling through what feel like endless equipment breakdowns. I am considering two options: an 090 powerhead with a aftermarket replacement starter assembly and handle (used OEM parts detached but included) with an asking price of $900 and a 084 with a 36" bar and chain, replaced crank seals and an aftermarket maxflow air filter fro $1000. Both saws are on FB marketplace, and I'll have the opportunity to run them both/compression test and negotiate before purchasing. I'm thinking $1000 is pretty steep for a used 084, but the chainbrake and the more user serviceable is a plus. The 090 is cool for sure, but I'm worried about buying another tired, excessively vibrating saw. Thoughts?
 
I started to buy a brand new 880 to replace my Homelite Super 1050, partly because of the vibration and noise, and because I liked the saw and didn't want to beat on it. At the dealer I changed my mind at the last minute and bought a 660. It does fine, and it was only a little over $1000 with 2 bars, 2 chains, a 6 pack of 5 gallon synthetic mix, and a gallon of bar oil. I just feel more comfortable buying a new one. Most of our big saws were used very little, felling a big tree, or flushing a big stump. I'm sire we had XL12's and XL925's that had more hours on them in a year than the 1050's had in 10 or 20 years.
 
I was looking at both of those saws as well
I'm currently running a 48" Alaskan mill with a Stihl 075, and a 42" bar pulling .404 chain. The 075 has been problematic ever since I've run it; the excessive vibration causes the saw to lose bolts, despite my best attempts to apply locktite and keep everything cinched down. The saw has rattled the muffler bolts off, loosened the nut securing the clutch and has even lost a decompression valve. The saw is currently waiting on a new decomp valve, but in the mean time I am considering buying a replacement/backup powerhead so that I can continue milling through what feel like endless equipment breakdowns. I am considering two options: an 090 powerhead with a aftermarket replacement starter assembly and handle (used OEM parts detached but included) with an asking price of $900 and a 084 with a 36" bar and chain, replaced crank seals and an aftermarket maxflow air filter fro $1000. Both saws are on FB marketplace, and I'll have the opportunity to run them both/compression test and negotiate before purchasing. I'm thinking $1000 is pretty steep for a used 084, but the chainbrake and the more user serviceable is a plus. The 090 is cool for sure, but I'm worried about buying another tired, excessively vibrating saw. Thoughts?
I am watching both of those saws as well. Currently I am using a stihl 064 on a small log mill. Essentially I want more power for a larger mill. $1000 seems a bit steep to me for the 084. Honestly $900 seems high considering the age of the saw. For my hobby use it is a bit of an investment. I am following this mostly out of curiosity. Milling is new to me so I am in the learning curve.

Have you considered the....dare I say it.....chinese knockoff of the 070? I wouldn't feel quite so bad about burning up a $400 saw versus a $1000 saw.
 
If your only pulling a 42” bar I think the 660 is capable. I’ve got a 075 and might take it apart and go through it so I don’t have the problem you do. Mine is missing several bolts and I already fixed several of the threads. I’ll be putting the bolts back in with lock tite. Right now the fuel filter is not being submerged good enough in the tank and runs out when milling after just a few minutes. Just bought a new fuel line. I think the other one had a bend in the line and the one the dealer gave me was straight. I’m thinking I need a line with a bend. That 075 will have way more torque then a 660 ot 661
 
I was looking at both of those saws as well

I am watching both of those saws as well. Currently I am using a stihl 064 on a small log mill. Essentially I want more power for a larger mill. $1000 seems a bit steep to me for the 084. Honestly $900 seems high considering the age of the saw. For my hobby use it is a bit of an investment. I am following this mostly out of curiosity. Milling is new to me so I am in the learning curve.

Have you considered the....dare I say it.....chinese knockoff of the 070? I wouldn't feel quite so bad about burning up a $400 saw versus a $1000 saw.
I'm very skeptical of the new 070's. I'm sure they run, and will run for a time but I've also paid the price for cheaping out in the past and I'm wary of doing it again. $400 isnt a cheap gamble, either.
 
If your only pulling a 42” bar I think the 660 is capable. I’ve got a 075 and might take it apart and go through it so I don’t have the problem you do. Mine is missing several bolts and I already fixed several of the threads. I’ll be putting the bolts back in with lock tite. Right now the fuel filter is not being submerged good enough in the tank and runs out when milling after just a few minutes. Just bought a new fuel line. I think the other one had a bend in the line and the one the dealer gave me was straight. I’m thinking I need a line with a bend. That 075 will have way more torque then a 660 ot 661
I'm sure that a 90 cc class saw will run the mill fine enough, but I am pulling .404 chain and I already have a decent amount invested in chain. I'd need a 3/8" sprocket tip, and a matching rim, as long a bar adapter from cannon in order to run my current setup on a 660/066. I considered going that route when I started, but I'm firmly in the 100+ cc camp now. As far as your 075 goes, I'd definitely reccomend taking it down atleast to where you can give it a vacuum/pressure test and see how healthy the crankcase is. It comes apart easy enough, until the cylinder is off. The outboard clutch can be a real pain, too. If the new decompression valve doesn't fix my pressure leak, I'll be doing that here soon.
 
There are plenty of 100CC saws out there without chasing $1000 ones. I bought a Mac 550, 99CC's with 3/8 chain for $35 at a yard sale last year. The owner had passed and the family was emptying out the garage. He had rebuilt the carb and had all new lines on it. Runs smooth as a sewing machine. I like 404 chain too. So, I picked up a 2nd Homelite super 1050 for $150, and a couple weeks ago I grabbed a third Super 1050 for $40. I might be a little bit of a hypocrite telling others to buy new and get a warranty, when I keep buying old ones. On the East Coast I've found that our big saws get less use than the West Coast saws. I find 36" bars that look like new. If I find a 50" or 60" from the west coast, they look worn out. Anyway, I have about 40 saws and 20 are probably 0ver 70CC's. So, if one goes down I just grab another.

Joshua, there are some guys over on the scrounging forum that build the knock offs and they speak pretty highly of them. I know one of the guys does mill with his, but he doesn't hang out over here much.
 
There are plenty of 100CC saws out there without chasing $1000 ones. I bought a Mac 550, 99CC's with 3/8 chain for $35 at a yard sale last year. The owner had passed and the family was emptying out the garage. He had rebuilt the carb and had all new lines on it. Runs smooth as a sewing machine. I like 404 chain too. So, I picked up a 2nd Homelite super 1050 for $150, and a couple weeks ago I grabbed a third Super 1050 for $40. I might be a little bit of a hypocrite telling others to buy new and get a warranty, when I keep buying old ones. On the East Coast I've found that our big saws get less use than the West Coast saws. I find 36" bars that look like new. If I find a 50" or 60" from the west coast, they look worn out. Anyway, I have about 40 saws and 20 are probably 0ver 70CC's. So, if one goes down I just grab another.

Joshua, there are some guys over on the scrounging forum that build the knock offs and they speak pretty highly of them. I know one of the guys does mill with his, but he doesn't hang out over here much.
I did overlook those for sure. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for non stihl/husqvarna options.
 
3120xp

Best value for a big newer milling saw you can find.
Finding a low hours copy for under $1000 should no problem.

I don't miss my 661 since trading for the 3120.
Just keeps on pulling and oils great even with moderately long bars.
That's a really good point. Ive seen them before too, and they match the criteria that I'm looking for (modern safety and engineering features, high displacement, readily available parts).
 
That's a really good point. Ive seen them before too, and they match the criteria that I'm looking for (modern safety and engineering features, high displacement, readily available parts).
There is a guy here that sells 3120's way less than sticker. I forget his user name. But, they are brand new with warranty. Some one should know him?
 
That's a really good point. Ive seen them before too, and they match the criteria that I'm looking for (modern safety and engineering features, high displacement, readily available parts).
120cc of chain pull! !!
There is a guy here that sells 3120's way less than sticker. I forget his user name. But, they are brand new with warranty. Some one should know him?
Dave is his name.
Goes by Chainsawguy ..... check the classified.
I've bought some components from Dave. He's a great guy to deal with and runs a legit Shop/Store.
Still those are new. There seems to be lightly used copies about if you want to save a few hundred.
Folks buy them with big intentions, ...find they don't need 120cc very often then let em go.
 
Thanks everybody. I'm set on a lightly used 3120 or 880. The 090 isn't listed anymore, and I'm convinced the 084 is a way highball ask. As for large displacement McCullohs and others, I'm worried about sinking money and time into repairs and seeking hard to find parts, only to be repairing the saw after every milling session, as has been the case with the 075. I've got my eyes on a lightly used 880 on CL. Hopefully that one works out.
 
Is $1200 on a lightly used 880 with a 36"inch bar and chain a deal? Saw has seen two owners, one who used it to cut large trees down on his property instead of paying an arborist, and another who has mostly left it to sit for a couple of years. I'll be performing the standard diagnostics (pressure test/tachometer) to gauge the health of the saw.
 
Take what I say with a grain of salt. I grew up fourth generation of tree guys. I have an inherent distrust of any homeowners with a chainsaw. Most of the guys here are homeowners, and I wouldn't let most of them touch one of my saws till I met and knew them. I don't mean any disrespect to all of the good guys here. But, a lot of them started out with a Wild Thing, and thought they knew saws because they could pull the rope on the starter. I priced an 880 with 3 bars, chains, and some other stuff and it was well over $2000. $1200 may be a good deal, but I just don't trust a homeowner selling on CL. I'd feel a lot better buying one off the classified here, from a member with some time on AS. You figure if he stiffed you every friend he has on the forum would be hounding him. So, it might be a good deal. The big thing is if he ran good fuel and mix in it. If he did, it's probably sound. If he didn't run enough bar oil you can tell by bluing on the bar, if he overheated it. As someone above said, people buy big saws thinking they are going to put their kids through college selling lumber. Then they find out that a CSM is hard work and sell them, in like new condition. Just be choosy
 
Take what I say with a grain of salt. I grew up fourth generation of tree guys. I have an inherent distrust of any homeowners with a chainsaw. Most of the guys here are homeowners, and I wouldn't let most of them touch one of my saws till I met and knew them. I don't mean any disrespect to all of the good guys here. But, a lot of them started out with a Wild Thing, and thought they knew saws because they could pull the rope on the starter. I priced an 880 with 3 bars, chains, and some other stuff and it was well over $2000. $1200 may be a good deal, but I just don't trust a homeowner selling on CL. I'd feel a lot better buying one off the classified here, from a member with some time on AS. You figure if he stiffed you every friend he has on the forum would be hounding him. So, it might be a good deal. The big thing is if he ran good fuel and mix in it. If he did, it's probably sound. If he didn't run enough bar oil you can tell by bluing on the bar, if he overheated it. As someone above said, people buy big saws thinking they are going to put their kids through college selling lumber. Then they find out that a CSM is hard work and sell them, in like new condition. Just be choosy

Thanks Joe. I work for the DNR in Maryland, and I've been around saws in all states of repair and disrepair for some time now. This one seems very clean. I'll probably try to pull the muffler and look at the piston if the compression is any less than 140 psi. The first homeowner does concern me, but the bar looks new and I've got a 42" cannon anyhow. The guy that has it listed is a carpenter who says that he never got around to buying a mill and needs to let it go. Once again, I appreciate the input. I'll keep you guys in the loop as to how it goes.
 
Sounds like a good one, and you know what you are looking at. When I bought my 660, I had cash in hand for the 880, and at the last minute decided to save the money. There have been a few times I wished I had of gotten the 880.
 

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