Resaw rig for tiny logs

[BobL]

I don't know how to silver solder but I do have a cheapo HF milling machine with a rotary table.

Wow, that would be nice to have at home. We have a mill at work but as I am the boss I try not to use the shop at work too often else everyone would want to use it.

Thought I could start with say 1/4 inch thick aluminum stock and machine a lip on it.

That would definitely be one way of doing it.

Silver soldering is relatively easy. Clean joint, apply flux, heat (I use a MAP torch) touch solder on joint, done. Most people try to apply the solder before the joint is hot enough. It produces a surprisingly strong join, much stronger than lead solder but not as strong as brazing.

 

[BobL]

You have any pics of the wood wetted to see the grain? Looks like it would be beautiful.

Here is what I made from those small Jam Logs that I milled. You should be abel to see the grain, parts have a very deep translucent fiddle - makes you wanna go back and get more.

Velcro padded feet with removable sandpaper shoes

And this is what it is for.

Cheers

 

[dustytools]

WOW! Thats one mighty fine looking push block.

 

[woodshop]

Beautiful shop tool. I almost never take the time to put that much into something that I use in my shop myself. Same with shop storage. I see these guys that build heirloom quality custom cabinets to hold their tools and equipment. Most of the jigs and custom storage in my shop are functional, but rarely as beautiful as that holder. Do you sell these at shows maybe? Also, is that pushblock dedicated to a certain project or piece you make?

 

[BobL]

Thanks Guys. It's sure is nice to have folk on this forum (where massive slabs of timber seem to [perhaps rightfully?] have the mega kudos) that can appreciate these tools. I am just a rank amateur and if anything I make goes to other people it's usually as gifts. If I had to make stuff to order or specification, that sounds too much like a day job and I would probably have a different hobby.

I have no real firm idea why I make tools like this other than the satisfaction of making everything I do as functional and attractive as possible. Why shouldn't shop tools and jigs be functional/attractive/tactile after all I spend a lot of time using them. Most of my milling is done with only a vague or non-specific milling purpose in mind. Sometimes I start milling with the intention of doing one thing and end up making something completely different. This wood was originally going to be a jewelry box but I changed my mind when I saw the grain. of course I haven't told my wife,who ordered the jewelry box, anything about this. When I saw that wood I wanted to be handling it as much as possible and a push block seemed a good tool to make with the limited amount I had of this wood.

The push block is going to be a generic pusher and not for a specific purpose. When making tools I often have to cut small pieces of wood and using push sticks is not really as safe as a push block. I've seen similar ones to mine for sale made in plastic and thought I could make one in a more tactile material. The 3 vertical boards (2 x 1/2" and 1 x 1" thick) on the push block are movable/interchangable depending on the width of the rip. I also have a 1/4" board in the pipeline.

Thanks again and cheers

 

[aquan8tor]

Here is what I made from those small Jam Logs that I milled. You should be abel to see the grain, parts have a very deep translucent fiddle - makes you wanna go back and get more.

Velcro padded feet with removable sandpaper shoes

And this is what it is for.

Cheers

WOW!!!!!!!!!! Nice pushblock. I'm embarassed to say that I just use whatever scrap I have when I need a pushblock. Nice work. The brass hardware really sets off the color and depth of the grain in the wood. Beautiful

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Thanks Guys. It's sure is nice to have folk on this forum (where massive slabs of timber seem to [perhaps rightfully?] have the mega kudos) that can appreciate these tools.

Massive slabs or not, quality speaks for itself... and I can "hear" it in your posts loud and clear, my friend. Very nice work.

 

[ShoerFast]

This is so cool, I been free-handing my first cut, sort of glad me ol Craftsman is not the most powerful toy on the farm!
When it binds, it is not that hard to stop the blade, but yes, things fly around sometime. This is now a plan for a rainy day!

 

[aquan8tor]

Hey Bob, where'd you get the bit to do the (sort of) keyhole recesses?? I haven't seen one quite like that.

Wait a minute; just thought about it. You cut out the round hole on a drill press then straight cut the slot.

 

[BobL]

Hey Bob, where'd you get the bit to do the (sort of) keyhole recesses?? I haven't seen one quite like that.

Wait a minute; just thought about it. You cut out the round hole on a drill press then straight cut the slot.

Yep - you got it. Two saw passes were needed to cut the slot as it is a little wider than any of my blade kerfs. I tried to use a T-slot router cutter on this wood. I went VERY slowly, I got about 1/2" into a test piece and I snapped it off. It's just way too hard - a common problem with Aussie hardwood.

Drilling into this wood is very tricky. Any drill bit smaller than 3/8" wanders around (especially in the end grain) at the start like a feral supermarket trolley. It's the first wood I every had to use a centre punch on. Even once partway in the hole it could wander, hence some of the screws are not as straight and flush to the brass as I would like.

Even being careful and using a heavy duty drill press, drilling into a 4" piece of wood and expecting to come out exactly where you want on the other side is difficult enough in any piece of wood but much more so in this wood. For accuracy, the 3/8" holes are drilled from each side just under half way into the wood. Then using a thinner bit the two holes were joined and opened up using successively bigger bits. Because they have not aligned exactly some of the holes are a little wonky in the middle but you can't see this. I was going to flatten the sides of the hole that the nuts are in contact with using a fine chisel but they seem to be holding fine as it is.

 

[woodshop]

Drilling into this wood is very tricky. Any drill bit smaller than 3/8" wanders around (especially in the end grain) at the start like a feral supermarket trolley. It's the first wood I every had to use a centre punch on. Even once partway in the hole it could wander, hence some of the screws are not as straight and flush to the brass as I would like.

Even being careful and using a heavy duty drill press, drilling into a 4" piece of wood and expecting to come out exactly where you want on the other side is difficult enough in any piece of wood but much more so in this wood.

I have used an end mill bit, like that used on a milling machine in tough wood like that where drill bits wander. It is similar to a plunge strait bit in a router. If you keep the speed up, and slowly drive it into the wood, it will bore a perfect strait hole. Problem is those bits usually aren't very long, couple inches at best, and you need a real hefty stable drill press to do the job. I cheat and use a metal mill/drill machine. The wood doesn't stand a chance.

 

[BobL]

I have used an end mill bit, like that used on a milling machine in tough wood like that where drill bits wander. It is similar to a plunge strait bit in a router. If you keep the speed up, and slowly drive it into the wood, it will bore a perfect strait hole. Problem is those bits usually aren't very long, couple inches at best, and you need a real hefty stable drill press to do the job. I cheat and use a metal mill/drill machine. The wood doesn't stand a chance.

My drill press is an MT3 so it is reasonably heavy duty but the main flexing was clearly the bits. After centre puncging I ended up using a 1/4" forstner bit with a 3/8" shank to start the wood screw holes but I could not go too deep because I then had to change to 5/32" to drill the rest of the hole. I drilled a couple of the holes and they went off at odd angles so I basically cut a 5/32" bit in half and only had about 3/4" of length poking out of the chuck. This sort of worked. Next time I'm going to use a centre drill bit as used on lathes to start the holes. These have short bits and thick shanks.

 

[aquan8tor]

what about a pocket-hole type drill bit?? I'm not sure of the large diameter, I think its 3/8, but maybe 7/16. The point would sure make centering easy. I honestly have only used the jig I have a couple times, so maybe its not the best here. Just a random thought.

 

[BobL]

what about a pocket-hole type drill bit?? I'm not sure of the large diameter, I think its 3/8, but maybe 7/16. The point would sure make centering easy. I honestly have only used the jig I have a couple times, so maybe its not the best here. Just a random thought.

yeah, they're 3/8" - good idea although I would like a shorter shank if possible.

 

[ROOTSXROCKS]

Those are some great Jigs, I keep finding so many jewels of information here in the archives, I will be looking for more of this kind of stuff to give my puny rep points out to.

 

[BobL]

Those are some great Jigs, I keep finding so many jewels of information here in the archives, I will be looking for more of this kind of stuff to give my puny rep points out to.

Cheers RXR! I enjoy making those jig, rigs and mills as much as I do the milling. I really like the process and experimentation, even more than I like the products they make. I make a lot of jigs and stuff I never end up using or sometimes I end up dissect them up for something else.