Best price would be sold on eBay, bidding war would bring over a thousand I would think, each area is different pricewise. Some collectors prefer original while others like restored.
Restored Stihl Contra 1106 hard starting when cold
- Thread starter A2build
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- 1106 contra running issues stihl
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Have you got a known good saw to test your compression tester on? I know you said you have used it many times, but the fact that 100psi didn’t concern you as being low does make me wonder. What do you normally get? Upload some pics of the results
You didn't put all that effort into restoring that saw to put it to serious use. If it starts and runs reliably, you can display it with pride just the way it is.
A 58mm Contra won't usually sell for a great deal of money because a great many of them have survived. BUT, no vintage collection that includes Stihl should be without one, because of the importance of the model in the story of Stihl and chainsaws in general. The first Contras were produced in 1958, and the basic architecture of that model has remained in production for over 60 years. It's a gem even if it isn't rare.
A2build
ArboristSite Lurker
Here’s a very low hours Stihl ms180c, I think that’s pretty accurate
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It’s close enough yeah. Hmm look into the rings as Jerry said. Did you go OEM rings? You’ve done an incredible job rebuilding it, to know in the back of your mind it’s low on compression just seems a shame.
A2build
ArboristSite Lurker
Got the saw out today and ran it for about an hour mainly just idle and a few revs, the compression only came up about 5psi after it cooled down completely, the rings are oem nos, I’m debating what to do next
Glad it ran well, though avoid doing that, you need pressure behind the rings to seat them which comes from resistance on the crank. A few mins warm up, then get them under good load to drop the rpm a few thousand rpm. Don’t bog it down, but don’t baby it.
It’s a tough call. It starts and runs, but that low of compression isn’t good.
That said, I can almost guarantee you’ll do more damage than good unbolting it all. Maybe that model with a long stroke has a lower compression ratio, it would be a first I have ever seen in saws, but some old outboards do have low compression 70-80 psi.
A2build
ArboristSite Lurker
I don’t know if I want to put it in the wood and get it dirty, the restoration took so many hours of work, plus the bar alone cost me $250, the saw started and ran awesome so I don’t know.
I totally get it mate, especially for something like that that you’ve put so much effort into.
Give this a go 
add a teaspoons worth of 2 stroke oil down the plug hole and re-do the compression test. If it shoot’s up 15-20 psi then you know you have a ring / cylinder issue. If it doesn’t change by much you can be assured it’s the design of the saw
add a teaspoons worth of 2 stroke oil down the plug hole and re-do the compression test. If it shoot’s up 15-20 psi then you know you have a ring / cylinder issue. If it doesn’t change by much you can be assured it’s the design of the sawA2build
ArboristSite Lurker
Ok I got around to putting some oil down the cylinder and the compression bumped up to 148psi!!, now what. I’m stumped on what to do next.Give this a go
I feared that may have been the case
Well good news, your tester is confirmed as good and you know you have a compression issue. It’s not as likely to be cylinder wear unless there is obvious damage, my guess is piston rings. Pop the cylinder off and check end gap as others have said. Somewhere between 0.2mm- 0.3mm is where it should be.
A2build
ArboristSite Lurker
Ok, it may be a few days before I get a chance to but I will pull the cylinder and get some measurements and pictures and post them here.I feared that may have been the case
Well good news, your tester is confirmed as good and you know you have a compression issue. It’s not as likely to be cylinder wear unless there is obvious damage, my guess is piston rings. Pop the cylinder off and check end gap as others have said. Somewhere between 0.2mm- 0.3mm is where it should be.
