Rigging knots
- Thread starter Charsha1
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try this make a small loop with about 3 feet of tail
put the rope up the loop from the bottem
go around the standing part
then back dow the hole
grab the two pieces on the bottem and the one piece on the top and pull tight at the same time.
put the rope up the loop from the bottem
go around the standing part
then back dow the hole
grab the two pieces on the bottem and the one piece on the top and pull tight at the same time.
deevo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just go buy the art & science of practical rigging book or dvd set already before you start lowering limbs, branches etc..... it's got all the required knots for rigging. As well buy the tree climbers companion from Jeff Jepson. Teaches you most of the commonly used knots as well. :greenchainsaw:
http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Books-Videos_5
You will have all your questions answered plus a little education out of it!
Oh yeah make sure you are doing it with someone who is trained and knows what they are doing.
http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Books-Videos_5
You will have all your questions answered plus a little education out of it!
Oh yeah make sure you are doing it with someone who is trained and knows what they are doing.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you worked for me you wouldn't leave the ground until you at least had your friction hitch and the running bowline down. And then you wouldn't get off the ground with anything but a handsaw.
That's how it should be but rght now I cans do it that way. By the way every time I figure out a new knot I spend prob 10 hours tieing and untieing the know untill I can tie it without looking or thinking about it. Plus I'll never use it in a tree untill I feel good using the new knot on the ground.
Well Charsha did you get it yet?
I'm not sure if this will help, but:
I think you might be expecting the wrong part of the knot to tighten up. The loop created by a regular bowline will not and should not tighten up when force is put on it. A running bowline, on the other hand, is a choker style knot. If you keep that in mind when tying it, it may help you understand what is supposed to happen. Learn how to tie a bowline really well. Then, incorporate the 'running' part into it.
I think you might be expecting the wrong part of the knot to tighten up. The loop created by a regular bowline will not and should not tighten up when force is put on it. A running bowline, on the other hand, is a choker style knot. If you keep that in mind when tying it, it may help you understand what is supposed to happen. Learn how to tie a bowline really well. Then, incorporate the 'running' part into it.
The clove hitch is not a safe knot to rig branches with.
1. It can roll out, dropping the load.
2. All the books and references that I know of say "don't use for rigging", or something like that.
3. It can jam up tight on a branch and be very difficult to remove.
Use a timber hitch instead. More secure, easier to tie, less work to untie. Running bowline works fine, but can shake loose of the end, particularly on a large diameter log.
I think I understand the lupe that is made does not get tight on the pulling line right? So if I tie the know and set it I can alway move the rope a little on the branch before it gets snugged up to cut.
I think I should just come work to one of u guys for a few months.
I don't think you're dumb. The dumb ones are out there trying to figure this stuff out all by themselves. You're at least on here wanting to learn. That's pretty big.
http://www.netknots.com/html/running_bowline.html
Another site that might help. I hate to beat a dead horse for you, but this is one of those knots that once you master it, you'll use it all the time.
http://www.netknots.com/html/running_bowline.html
Another site that might help. I hate to beat a dead horse for you, but this is one of those knots that once you master it, you'll use it all the time.
I can do that knot but when I pull it it seems like it's going to slide off but maybe it's just me. Do u still use that knot when you top a tree and lower it or a branch that stands stright up?
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
On the clove hitch:
I have read that it will roll out too but have never seen it happen first hand. I was taught to use both the running bowline and the clove hitch when I was learning, although we called the clove hitch the claw hitch or cross claw in my circle back then. And i have seen some huge spar pieces tied off with that knot back when we were butt hitching without a block. It is great to use when you are lowering multiple limbs at the same time. I will rope two or three with the clove hitch and terminate with a running bowline. Works great. However, the running bowline is a much more functional knot. You can tie it at arms length and draw it up to your tie off point. Likewise, the groundies can pull it out from the piece and untie it at arms length.
Charsha1,
When I was first starting out the climber I worked for cut me about a 6' length of rope and gave me the task of learning 4 knots, a prussic for my friction hitch, a running bowline, a claw hitch or clove hitch and the butterfly knot. I had to learn all of those knots before I was allowed to climb. I carried my practice rope with me everywhere. Even when I was drinking beer at night I was practicing my knots. I lived with the climber that I worked for so I always had him around to check my knots. I had all four knots down within a week. If you lived closer I would put you to work.
I have read that it will roll out too but have never seen it happen first hand. I was taught to use both the running bowline and the clove hitch when I was learning, although we called the clove hitch the claw hitch or cross claw in my circle back then. And i have seen some huge spar pieces tied off with that knot back when we were butt hitching without a block. It is great to use when you are lowering multiple limbs at the same time. I will rope two or three with the clove hitch and terminate with a running bowline. Works great. However, the running bowline is a much more functional knot. You can tie it at arms length and draw it up to your tie off point. Likewise, the groundies can pull it out from the piece and untie it at arms length.
Charsha1,
When I was first starting out the climber I worked for cut me about a 6' length of rope and gave me the task of learning 4 knots, a prussic for my friction hitch, a running bowline, a claw hitch or clove hitch and the butterfly knot. I had to learn all of those knots before I was allowed to climb. I carried my practice rope with me everywhere. Even when I was drinking beer at night I was practicing my knots. I lived with the climber that I worked for so I always had him around to check my knots. I had all four knots down within a week. If you lived closer I would put you to work.
On the clove hitch:
I have read that it will roll out too but have never seen it happen first hand. I was taught to use both the running bowline and the clove hitch when I was learning, although we called the clove hitch the claw hitch or cross claw in my circle back then. And i have seen some huge spar pieces tied off with that knot back when we were butt hitching without a block. It is great to use when you are lowering multiple limbs at the same time. I will rope two or three with the clove hitch and terminate with a running bowline. Works great. However, the running bowline is a much more functional knot. You can tie it at arms length and draw it up to your tie off point. Likewise, the groundies can pull it out from the piece and untie it at arms length.
Charsha1,
When I was first starting out the climber I worked for cut me about a 6' length of rope and gave me the task of learning 4 knots, a prussic for my friction hitch, a running bowline, a claw hitch or clove hitch and the butterfly knot. I had to learn all of those knots before I was allowed to climb. I carried my practice rope with me everywhere. Even when I was drinking beer at night I was practicing my knots. I lived with the climber that I worked for so I always had him around to check my knots. I had all four knots down within a week. If you lived closer I would put you to work.
I have a 12' section the my kids pratice with that I've been using. I use a blakes hitch to climb with. I only started climbing because I my kids and now I'm hooked. If u have work through the winter I would be willing to come out and work all winter long we don't pour much concrete around here after Christmas.
I am very curious about that!
Why would an "old school" climber insist on learning the alpine butterfly (if that is what you are calling "the butterfly knot")? That is such a seldom used knot, I am wondering what he was making you learn it for? Perhaps we are talking about a different knot, or perhaps I need to learn some new applications.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, you are correct. Same knot.
Back then we used it on a daily basis to cinch trees down as well as other applications. Today I would be more likely to set up a Z rig with pulleys and biners or use a prussic cord but when I started out we used the butterfly knot for those applications. I can set up a rig and cinch a tree down with nothing more than a bull line. We used to call it the "ten man pull".
Back then we used it on a daily basis to cinch trees down as well as other applications. Today I would be more likely to set up a Z rig with pulleys and biners or use a prussic cord but when I started out we used the butterfly knot for those applications. I can set up a rig and cinch a tree down with nothing more than a bull line. We used to call it the "ten man pull".
I thought it might be for that, but I never have needed to do that very often. Of coarse, I always did that using the "man-harness" knot, and I have never really learned how to consistently tie the butterfly.
It was pretty progressive of your mentor to teach you that.
It was pretty progressive of your mentor to teach you that.
Yes, I'll use the running bowline for the majority of rigging. It's easy to tie (once you learn it), it's easy to untie, it's adjustable on the limb. I'll switch to a Marl if I don't have anything for the knot to catch on (branch/stub/etc.). I've also tied a cross between the running bowline and marl to secure something that I changed my mind on. It's all about adding as many knots to the 'mental toolbox' as I can. Then I can mix, match, or combine when I need them.
