Rigging question

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mdtreeman

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I joined this site a few months ago and am truly fascinated with how you guys use false crotches, blocks, porta wraps and all that other good stuff when rigging down stubs. We've always used cranes, but of course this is not always an option. That's when my boss always has us use natural crotches (which isn't that bad) but when blocking stubs down by cutting notches in the stub and half hitching using the notch so the rope doesn't run is time consuming. So my question is what is the best way to secure these blocks to the tree when roping stubs. Is a whoopie sling the way to go and if so how do they work or can I use an old short handline to secure it? I don't have a block, whoopie sling pulley or anything yet just wondering what's the best way to go. Thanks.
 
I love using the guys blocks...

not sure what you mean by whoopie slings but I think thats what we use..Not really sure how to explain our set up but its a rope inside a rope, which you can adjust to get proper size...

Fing Groundie shock loaded it last saturday...I went for a ride about 20 feet up on a small locust...Arrrg my chest took a hit...little sore saw is fine..
 
I joined this site a few months ago and am truly fascinated with how you guys use false crotches, blocks, porta wraps and all that other good stuff when rigging down stubs. We've always used cranes, but of course this is not always an option. That's when my boss always has us use natural crotches (which isn't that bad) but when blocking stubs down by cutting notches in the stub and half hitching using the notch so the rope doesn't run is time consuming. So my question is what is the best way to secure these blocks to the tree when roping stubs. Is a whoopie sling the way to go and if so how do they work or can I use an old short handline to secure it? I don't have a block, whoopie sling pulley or anything yet just wondering what's the best way to go. Thanks.

I just use an eye sling to set my block. I have a tenex sling but also just use a length of 3/4 stable braid as well. Much easier on your ropes than doing it old school and butt hitching it to the spar itself.
 
Nope, Never used it on a winch. I did use it to set a block for a redirect to pull a large stump over with a truck. Used a timber hitch to secure it to the tree and the knot came undone. That was my fault for not setting the block in the most optimal position though. I now use a cow hitch if I ever find myself in the same situation.
 
Also, from what I have heard Amsteel (SP?) is supposed to work great on a winch. Haven't used it myself but coming from someone who has had their hands poked by freyed fibers on steel cable winches for years, it sounds like a great alternative to me.
 
yup i am seriously debating pulling the trigger on 150 foot of 3/8 but its overpriced I was thinking I can run it through my blocks and pulleys a plus cant run steel cable through aluminum blocks it will chew them up not much alternative i cant find light pulleys with steel wheels.
 
I think when you guys talk about amsteel and tenex high molecular weight rope wonder lines, you should always caution folks about their proven habit of walking right out of arborist knots under high load. None of them can achieve their rated strengths without spliced termination anchors.

If someone knows different I'd love to know about it, and test it on the old hydraulic press.

jomoco
 
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I think when you guys talk about amsteel and tenex high molecular weight rope wonder lines, you should always caution folks about their proven habit of walking right out of arborist knots under high load. None of them can achieve their rated strengths without spliced termination anchors.

If someone knows different I'd love to know about it, and test it on the old hydraulic press.

jomoco

That's why I use the Stable Braid. It holds knots better and absorbs shock better as well. I mainly use my Tenex sling for redirects now.
 
I personally run 3/4 stable braid because I often run into situations where I will utilize it. I do plan on buying 5/8 this year though. 9 times out of 10 3/4 will be overkill but it's nice to have when you are doing something where you want to have confidence that your rigging line is going to hold the line, so to speak.
 
I personally run 3/4 stable braid because I often run into situations where I will utilize it. I do plan on buying 5/8 this year though. 9 times out of 10 3/4 will be overkill but it's nice to have when you are doing something where you want to have confidence that your rigging line is going to hold the line, so to speak.

must be taking some heavy chunks huh?we run 1/2 for branches and heavier for false crotch.
 
I use half inch about 90% of the time. I only use the 3/4 for blocking spars or lowering whole leaders. I will sometimes hang whole trees so the 3/4 is needed in those situations. I also like to use it for felling large trees as you can get a lot of leverage with it. I have been getting by for 19 years with 1/2 and 3/4. The 5/8 will just be luxury to me for something lighter to work with that will handle most of the work I do.
 
I use safety blue for my half inch line and have always just used my retired climbing lines as a rigging line. I have a couple of them around now. I no longer climb on safety blue so I have no idea what it's going for today, haven't bought any in a few years. I always just compared Sherrill and Wesspur prices and went with whoever had the better price. I buy equipment from both. At 7700 Lbs. tinsel strength, the safety blue makes excellent light rigging line IMO. Anyway, I am kind of set in my ways and it is what I have used for many years now.
 
I joined this site a few months ago and am truly fascinated with how you guys use false crotches, blocks, porta wraps and all that other good stuff when rigging down stubs. We've always used cranes, but of course this is not always an option. That's when my boss always has us use natural crotches (which isn't that bad) but when blocking stubs down by cutting notches in the stub and half hitching using the notch so the rope doesn't run is time consuming. So my question is what is the best way to secure these blocks to the tree when roping stubs. Is a whoopie sling the way to go and if so how do they work or can I use an old short handline to secure it? I don't have a block, whoopie sling pulley or anything yet just wondering what's the best way to go. Thanks.

I use a 5/8 cmi block, 5/8 x 12' stablebraid sling attached to the tree with a cow hitch and backup 1/2 hitch. Usually I run 1/2, 9/16 or 5/8 stable braid depending on the situation. I attach the porta wrap with a whoopie sling, the big one. You can always make a bigger whoopie smaller by double wrapping. But you can't make a small sling bigger. On really big trees I use 3/4" stable braid and a 3/4" block with 20' of 3/4" stablebraid. Being able to use it all and know what size of piece to take only can be learned over time from an experienced tree worker. Good luck and stay safe...... Mike
 
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